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Weight distribution and brake control

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URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9097
Printed Date: 16 May 2024 at 2:33pm
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Topic: Weight distribution and brake control
Posted By: cjscinta
Subject: Weight distribution and brake control
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 10:50am
Hello all. I am new to this forum and have never owned or towed a travel trailer. I am looking to purchase a 179 and own a Toyota Tacoma V6 4x4 with a tow package. The dealer I am working with says because it's a medium sized truck they are not comfortable letting me drive it off to lot without a weight distribution hitch. No problem I am comfortable with that. However to have the dealer install it they want 950 dollars. ( I'm not that naive) According to Amazon I'm all in at 400 bucks. 

I've watched some YouTube videos and I think I can do this myself. How hard is this to install? From the forum I was looking at the fastway e2. 

What is involved in the install?
What is the difference between round bar and trunion?
What weight limit do I need? 800? 1000?
As for the brake control Tecumseh P2? Set at 6 and back it off as needed?

Thanks for your input. 






Replies:
Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 11:03am
The E2 is an excellent and very popular WDH. You can install it yourself, but you must read the instructions, re-read the instructions, understand the instructions, and follow the instructions. It's tome consuming but proper installation and adjustment is critical with any WDH and not necessarily provided by an RV dealer. The 600/600 E2 is entirely adequate for the 179 as is the Tacoma. I currently tow a Livinlite 21RBS, ~1000# heavier than the 179, with a Tacoma and E2. Works great. The Tekonsha controllers are excellent. Just don't crank them up too high and don't try to lock up the trailer wheels on dry pavement. Just set them so you don't feel the trailer pushing the Tacoma. 

-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: Jasp
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 11:47am
I tow with the same Tacoma. I use a swaybar and nothing more. The Tacoma V6 with two package has zero problems towing the pod. Imo.


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 11:50am
Hey Charlie.  Thanks so much for the quick response. I really liked that Camplite 21. I was afraid I was pushing my tow capacity with it. Glad to see the Tacoma can pull it. Interested to see how you like it. 

So when you say time consuming do you mean a couple of hours cause I will probably have to do this at the dealer. Cause the you tube video of the install is only 10 minutes long. (Kidding)


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 11:54am
Hey Jasp. That is really all I thought I needed was the sway bar. I'm sure the dealer is just trying to sponge me for more or liability etc.  Thanks for the info. 



Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 12:18pm
Originally posted by cjscinta

Hey Charlie.  Thanks so much for the quick response. I really liked that Camplite 21. I was afraid I was pushing my tow capacity with it. Glad to see the Tacoma can pull it. Interested to see how you like it. 

So when you say time consuming do you mean a couple of hours cause I will probably have to do this at the dealer. Cause the you tube video of the install is only 10 minutes long. (Kidding)

We really like the Camplite. The Tacoma pulls it very well but I did add the TRD supercharger for altitude because we spend a lot of time in Colorado. I wouldn't plan to make the hitch adjustments at the dealer's lot. You can't do it with a dealer standing over you. Get the wrenches and prepare to do it yourself at home. You'll need a level surface such as an empty parking lot on a weekend to measure, make the adjustments, remeasure, and try it out. Some may say you don't need WDH, but I always say you'll want it. WDH, even on a full sized PU, really improves the ride by eliminating porpoising and bounce. Read posts on this forum and you'll find most folks end up in that camp. 


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 12:42pm
Charlie. I agree with you. I don't want to do it at the dealer. Hence my dilemma. I need the trailer to do it which I will have to purchase and take possession of. According to the dealer they are not comfortable with me taking possession of and driving it off the lot without having the proper ( weight distribution) hitch. I realize this may just be their way of making me spend 950 on a hitch and control from them which I don't want to do because I'm too cheap for that. 😀



Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 1:04pm
Originally posted by cjscinta

According to the dealer they are not comfortable with me taking possession of and driving it off the lot without having the proper ( weight distribution) hitch. I realize this may just be their way of making me spend 950 on a hitch and control from them which I don't want to do because I'm too cheap for that. 😀


In that case ask them if they are more comfortable in your going to another dealer. They may increase their comfort level very quickly. There is no major safety issue with your unloaded 179 and an unloaded Tacoma. get it home and install/adjust the E2. Just keep the speed down and stay off freeways until you are accustomed to towing. However, you must have the brake controller. I recommend Takonsha Prodigy P3 if you haven't already bought one.

The ride home without WDH might be good for you so you can appreciate the difference.


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: ragadas
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 1:08pm
I just bought a RP179 last summer and had the dealer install an E2 K6 on my Tacoma. Total bill was $497.00...they supplied the hitch and labor. It sounds like your dealer was a little high, and so are his prices.


If your Tacoma has the round seven pin connector, it will have a plug and play connector for the electric brakes behind the left front kick panel below the steering wheel. It takes little time and effort to install the controller. That may be why your dealer is goosey about letting you drive off (the fact that you have no controller for the brakes)

-------------
Dave & Chris
RP 179
2011 Tacoma Access Cab
V6 6 speed manual.


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 1:40pm
One more point: When you install the E2 you will measure the rear fender height with and without the trailer weight. Then the instructions request you adjust the hitch to recover the drop in the rear fenders. It is now accepted practice to recover only 1/2 the fender drop with the hitch. Full recovery is too much. Keep in mind that a poorly adjusted WDH can be worse than no WDH.

-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: Tars Tarkas
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 4:46pm
I agree with the notion that the dealer will get a lot more comfortable with you taking the rpod off of his lot without a WDH if you let him know that's the only way it's going.  If you want to, just tell him you're going to do it yourself or you want to try towing a while without it.  It's not the dealer's problem.

I just installed the Fastway E2 600.  It takes a while... but isn't hard.  Except for torquing things down to 450 ft lb.  (I might have cheated on that a bit.)

For what it's worth, I've towed my 176 without a WDH or sway control from Florida to Cape Breton and about 15 or 20K miles in between and never had the slightest issue.  I got the WDH largely on the general recommendation of this forum and I can't say I think it's worth it.  I may notice a bit of difference, maybe.

I'll keep using the WDH at least for a while.  It almost certainly does provide some safety benefit, but I think the bottom line is that not everyone automatically needs one.  It's a matter of personal comfort level at least to some degree.
 
But really, don't let the dealer bully you into paying $950 for one. 

TT


-------------
2010 176
FJ Cruiser


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 5:23pm
Thanks all for the input. I was thinking there was some liability issue or something with the dealer and that is part of the reason besides overcharging me for it of course but it sounds like that is not the case. 


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 5:54pm
Oh and trunion or round bar? What is the difference?



Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 6:56pm
Trunion gives a little better ground clearance, but that's not really and issue at that part of the rig. Most end up with the round bar because it's a bit cheaper and more available.

-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 7:55pm
You've been a huge help Charlie. Thanks again. 



Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2016 at 8:29pm
Another alternative that provides both WD and sway control is the Andersen No-Sway. If my dealer had not installed the Equal-i-zer, which cost me $700, I would have gone for the Andersen. It has some mixed reviews, but overall, what I read is positive. It has the advantage of light weight, and adjustment is just done by tightening or loosening a couple of nuts once the brackets are in place and properly fastened. The Equal-i-zer hitch I have works great, but it is really heavy.

-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 8:12am
Looks like the Anderson is a bit more expensive than the Fastway. Is it that much better? If so may be worth it. Is it easy to install? Watching the videos it looks like the Anderson is much easier to install. May be worth it. Any thoughts?



Posted By: john in idaho
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 11:39am

The Andersen website lists dealers.  There may be several around wherever you live.  Call around.  Be nice if you could get someone to help you or let you watch - you will learn something.


Posted By: Our pod
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 1:16pm
I tow with a Toyota Tacoma, V-6 4x4 with tow package. I have a standard hitch, not a WDH. Got back at the end of October from 3,500 miles to Lake Powell and up to 10,000 feet of altitude on a very winding road (Great Basin National Park).

Not a single problem towing. No swaying or fishtailing; I do have an anti-sway bar.

If the dealer requires you to get a WDH have them put in writing why. That request alone may cause them to back off their requirement.

Happy podding.

-------------
Life is good.


Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 5:52pm
Originally posted by cjscinta

Looks like the Anderson is a bit more expensive than the Fastway. Is it that much better? If so may be worth it. Is it easy to install? Watching the videos it looks like the Anderson is much easier to install. May be worth it. Any thoughts?

I don't know if it is that much better. What it is is lighter. If the hitch head for the Fastway E2 is anything like the hitch head for the Equal-i-zer I use, it is HEAVY. The bars are also not light. The chains and plate of the Andersen would have been easier to handle. That might be worth the difference by itself.


-------------
StephenH
Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,...

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods
Former RPod 179
Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS


Posted By: Robwid
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 8:56pm
We've towed our 177 with a 2010 Tacoma with tow package and a simple anti-sway bar without issue for 4 years.

-------------
Rob
2012 HRE 177
2010 Toyota Tacoma


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 9:24pm
Hmmm. It says for the fastway e2 I need to tighten the ball to 600 ft lbs. that could be a problem unless I buy a 200 dollar torque wrench. Then I'm into the higher cost of the Andersen which appears to be easier to install. 


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 9:33pm
Rob. That was my initial thought when I started to research this. I would just buy an anti sway bar for 50 bucks and be done. In fact, one dealer I went to didn't even think I needed that. Giving my lack of towing experience though and an overly cautious wife has made me think better safe than sorry. I hate hearing "I told you so." 😀


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 9:49pm
Originally posted by cjscinta

Hmmm. It says for the fastway e2 I need to tighten the ball to 600 ft lbs. that could be a problem unless I buy a 200 dollar torque wrench. Then I'm into the higher cost of the Andersen which appears to be easier to install. 

The manual for my 600/6000 E2 calls for 450 lb-ft on the ball and 250 lb-ft on the shank bolts. I bought a torque wrench because I didn't have one and have never bought a tool I regretted, but you don't have to. The entire hitch installation and setup can be accomplished without the final torquing. Once you get everything tweeked you can get someone to supply the final tightening. For that a trailer shop or auto garage can torque it for a few bucks. Some auto parts stores like Autozone will rent tools for a nominal fee. 

The Andersen has its own set of issues. It is good for sway but not so good for weight distribution, but you don't need that much weight distro. Just enough to suppress the bounce. Andersen has had a lot of trouble with their cone material. So far they've been good about replacing the cones, but the
long term jury is still out.


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 04 Dec 2016 at 9:58pm
Oh good call Charlie. Maybe Home Depot? I know the one by my house has tool rentals. May be worth a call. Thanks. 


Posted By: voisj
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 12:04pm
What is the Tow rating on your truck? Could be as High as 6500lb.  Even at 5000lb  it's good enough to tow it home. Tell the dealer to pound sand and do it yourself for less than half that. I recommend it for the Tacoma, and wouldn't tow with a fully loaded trailer (and truck) without it, You never know what some moron will do that makes you do an evasive maneuver. 

My dealer offered to install it for free if I brought it in when I picked up the trailer , But it hadn't shown up yet.

Install isn't to hard IF you get a good look at one that's done already, But with no knowledge going in it's a little tricky. I took pictures of one that was done already. 
I no longer tow with it because I bought a much bigger truck, So I have a nice Husky unit for sale cheap, (Only used twice!)

Brake control setting #  is unique to each vehicle, But you Have the general idea.
Rgds John 






-------------
http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9426&title=slopod-180-mods-johnsue - SLOPODMODS
John&Sue,SLO,CA
2016 180 HRE, 2013 F150 Eco Boost
 


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 1:12pm
Thanks vois. The tow rating is 6500 so I'm good. I think I decided to buy the trailer as is (new) and show up with a 2 in ball and a brake control and drive it home and have it installed. Empty truck and trailer I should be good you think. The drive home is about 150 miles and I have one small mountain to negotiate but I'll take it slow.


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 1:14pm
Charlie or anyone: Does anyone know the difference between the techshioma P 2 and P 3 brake control?


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 2:03pm
Originally posted by cjscinta

Charlie or anyone: Does anyone know the difference between the techshioma P 2 and P 3 brake control?

The Tekonsh P2 and P3  do basically the same thing. The difference is the P3 displays understandable English; the P2 displays codes which have to be looked up in a book. The P3 is a whole lot more convenience for just a few bucks. I had an earlier Tekonsha Voyager and I got very tired of digging in the glove box for the book every time I wanted to change something. Go with the P3.


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 7:18pm
Ok Charlie. The p3 it is. I am buying a new 179 from the dealer and I decided against paying for all the dealer prep fees which would have been almost 2000 extra.  Therefore I don't get a battery with it or a walk through, wash, systems check, or a full tank of propane. I can deal. But what is the best battery to buy for it? I thought I read something about a golf cart battery? Are there any other concerns I should have when I pick it up?


Posted By: voisj
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 8:01pm
Who are these guys? My dealer gave me an extra battery, full propane tank,a walk through that was way to long,the starter kit, and still beat the other local dealers by over a grand!!! And didn't try to upsell anything

-------------
http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9426&title=slopod-180-mods-johnsue - SLOPODMODS
John&Sue,SLO,CA
2016 180 HRE, 2013 F150 Eco Boost
 


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 8:07pm
Ha. CW. I think the price was pretty good but I was not interested in all the extras that runs the price up. I told them to forget those. So it was kinda my choice too. Maybe I'm a bad negotiator. Smile


Posted By: finder9
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 8:20pm
I purchased a Fastway E2 in September for my 179.  Paid $330 installed.  Watched the install.  If you can get the tools, do it yourself.  Like CharlieM said -- read and reread the manual.  You can also find it now on the Fastway web site. And if you need help, call the factory.  I have and they are great to deal with.

As with buying anything now, you need to know more than the guy selling it.


-------------
Jack
2017 Rpod 179
2015 Dodge Ram


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 8:41pm
Originally posted by cjscinta

Ok Charlie. The p3 it is. I am buying a new 179 from the dealer and I decided against paying for all the dealer prep fees which would have been almost 2000 extra.  Therefore I don't get a battery with it or a walk through, wash, systems check, or a full tank of propane. I can deal. But what is the best battery to buy for it? I thought I read something about a golf cart battery? Are there any other concerns I should have when I pick it up?

Not getting a battery from the dealer is a good thing as long as you don't pay for one. Usually they give you a cheap Group 24 battery. The best solution is a pair of 6V GC2 golf cart batteries wired in series. The only issue might be the size of the rack on the 179. It used to be OK for the pair of GC2s in boxes but I don't know what's rolling off the factory floor now. Either way it's an easy fix if needed. Electrical hookup is the same as the 12V battery but gives you about 2.5 times as much stored energy.


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 8:55pm
I really like the idea of 2 gc2s which I will probably do in the near future but so I understand then just starting out a 12 volt battery will suffice? Any idea what kind? Too many to choose from. 


Posted By: voisj
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 9:10pm
My 180 came with two group 24 batteries.Longest I've camped off grid is 4 nights ( no heater use) and it was still ok. I plan to run them til they die before I replace them with something better. If you plan to boonedock often and long go with the 2 6volt set up. If you camp with hookups 1 group 27 will suffice.

-------------
http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9426&title=slopod-180-mods-johnsue - SLOPODMODS
John&Sue,SLO,CA
2016 180 HRE, 2013 F150 Eco Boost
 


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 9:22pm
Originally posted by cjscinta

I really like the idea of 2 gc2s which I will probably do in the near future but so I understand then just starting out a 12 volt battery will suffice? Any idea what kind? Too many to choose from. 

You want a true deep cycle battery, not a "marine" battery or "starting" battery. Any battery rated in reserve capacity or reserve minutes or cranking amps is not a deep cycle battery regardless of what the label or salesman says. Interstate makes a usable battery, SRM24, but it's not a true deep cycle.


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 10:03pm
Ok. 12 volt true deep cycle battery. Got it thanks. Initially, I only plan on using Rv sites with shore power and short 2 day trips but just out of curiosity how long can the battery last before it needs a charge?


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 10:47pm
Originally posted by cjscinta

Ok. 12 volt true deep cycle battery. Got it thanks. Initially, I only plan on using Rv sites with shore power and short 2 day trips but just out of curiosity how long can the battery last before it needs a charge?

No good answer to that. It depends.
Totally disconnected from the trailer - several months.
Connected with only the parasitic propane detector load - 2 weeks.
Connected and running fridge on DC - 5 hours.
Normal use with a Gp 24 battery, fridge on propane, some use of the furnace - maybe 2-4 days.

Camped with shore power any battery will do. You do need a battery but it's totally non critical.


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 10:59pm
Wow. I guess the moral is don't use your fridge with battery power. What is a gc24? Sorry for all the questions but I'm almost clueless on this stuff. Can I buy an inexpensive battery at Walmart to get me by? If it's not too much more I'll go deep cycle. Do they sell those? 


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 06 Dec 2016 at 11:25pm
IMO, and that of most experienced others, the 12V option on the fridge is less than worthless. Run the fridge on propane or shore power, even when towing. Perfectly OK as all larger trailers don't even have a 12V mode.

For short stays on shore power any battery will do. Don't pay for sealed or no maintenance batteries; get the one with caps and check the water periodically. True 12V deep cycle batteries are available but they cost more. Ultimately the dual 6V golfers are cheaper AmpHour for AmpHour because every golf course has 2 jillion golf carts, all requiring batteries. Sam's Club lists a Group 24 twelve volt marine battery for $75.


-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: john in idaho
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 11:31am
If you have a AAA card check with them.  Out in the Pacific North West, one gets a nice discount at NAPA.  Usually around $10 on a battery.


Posted By: TheBum
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 11:59am
Originally posted by CharlieM


Don't pay for sealed or no maintenance batteries; get the one with caps and check the water periodically.


...and carry a jug of distilled water with you when you travel so you can top off the cells if needed. I usually have distilled water anyway for my CPAP.


Posted By: TheBum
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 12:01pm
Originally posted by CharlieM

The best solution is a pair of 6V GC2 golf cart batteries wired in series. The only issue might be the size of the rack on the 179. It used to be OK for the pair of GC2s in boxes but I don't know what's rolling off the factory floor now. Either way it's an easy fix if needed. Electrical hookup is the same as the 12V battery but gives you about 2.5 times as much stored energy.



As of 2016, two GC2 batteries with cases will fit fine on the rack. The lids barely make contact with the rock guard.


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 12:43pm
Any trick to wiring them in parallel?


Posted By: CharlieM
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 12:59pm
Originally posted by cjscinta

Any trick to wiring them in parallel?

Let me clear up some confusion. Two 12V batteries are wired in parallel; two 6V batteries are wired in series. In the diagram below the parallel  connection is circled in blue; the series connection is circled in red. In parallel you add the AH capacity but the voltage stays the same. In series you add the voltage but the AH capacity stays the same. Two 6V GC2s in series yields 12V at 220+ AH. Clear as espresso? Wink




-------------
Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 07 Dec 2016 at 1:33pm
Actually that makes sense. Thanks for the diagram. So a negative to a positive to connect the two in series. Think I got it. Thanks again. Maybe I'll just go this route. 


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 19 Dec 2016 at 5:31pm
I just bought a 2017 179 and ordered an e2 and p3. I haven't picked it up yet but does anyone know the exact measurement from the ground to the coupler when the trailer is level? Assuming normally loaded  I need this info for the install and can't get to it to measure it. I know the ground to my receiver is 18.5. Thanks. 


Posted By: frogpod
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2016 at 9:36pm
We tow a 2010 RPOD 171 with a Tacoma TRD Full cab with the V6.  Also have a sway bar and use a Tekonsha brake controller.  The sway bar works well but doesn't prevent the uncomfortable "porpoising" effect.  I understand that the WDH will help with that.  I bought the truck and pod used and the receiver hitch was already on the truck and the pod came with the sway bar.  If starting from scratch, I think WDH is the way to go.  I really like the tekonsha prodigy controller, but I heard there is a new one....cannot remember the name....that works just as well but splits it up into different pieces to allow for better mounting possibilities.  Perhaps someone else can chime in that has experience with this new controller. 

-------------
Leo and Tami
with Coltrane the Jack Russell Terrier
2010 Rpod 171
2003 Toyota Tacoma TRD


Posted By: frogpod
Date Posted: 20 Dec 2016 at 10:16pm
You want the front of the pod slightly lower than the back, or dead level when towing.  Perhaps the dealer can tell you the height for the pod ball when level?   I needed a 6 inch drop on the ball for my Tacoma pickup truck.  My son got a hitch for his minivan to tow the pod and it needed about a six inch rise.  When the trailer is connected, the weight brings the back of the truck down a little.  He bought an adjustable one...I believe in one inch increments.  We measured and then had to drop it an inch so the adjustable feature came in handy.  Misplaced my ball and hitch and even used his upside down to tow it for fifty miles once.  Had to do the wiring for the 7 wire plugs and the brake controllers for both vehicles.  We got everything from etrailer.com....they put together packages with just what you need and prices are also very reasonable. The adjustable height hitches tend to "bang" around some.  I guess it doesn't hurt anything, but they also have an extra clamp that you can get to tighten it up and stop the banging for a couple extra bucks. If you do the wiring for the plug, make sure you get a bigger wire for the trailer charging line.  I believe 10 gauge is what is recommended.  Mine was done with 12 gauge wire, as I didn't know better at the time.  


-------------
Leo and Tami
with Coltrane the Jack Russell Terrier
2010 Rpod 171
2003 Toyota Tacoma TRD


Posted By: cjscinta
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2016 at 1:31am
Thanks for your input Frog. 


Posted By: Roaming Around
Date Posted: 21 Dec 2016 at 7:44am
I towed in Florida, Louisiana, Colorado, and Wisconsin, with 2012 Tacoma PreRunner V6 with tow package and NO sway bar or any other extras. I bought the sway bar but never needed to use it, even in windy conditions or on Interstates. I do drive carefully, always in the right-hand lane and never over 60. Don't think expensive extras are necessary with the Tacoma if it's tow-ready and has a good brake controller. Easy unit to tow! Just bought a 2017 Jeep Cherokee 4x4 with tow package -- hope it tows as nicely! I needed the 4x4 up here in Door County WI where snow plows are in scarce supply! Smile 


Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 22 Dec 2016 at 2:47pm
If your TV ends up with a 12 gauge line already installed, you can always run another one from one end to the other, in parallel with the original one. Two 12 gauge lines together equals about a 10 gauge line. 10 and 12 gauge together is around 8-9 gauge.

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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual



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