Black tank fell from r-pod - Event Date: 03 Nov 2016

This thread is a real eye-opener, and full of good advice. Having just purchased a new 2016 Rpod 171 (May 2016) I checked all of the tank cross members. What I discovered is that all cross members (except 1) are welded to the frame on one end with the other end held by heavy sheet metal screws with a 3/8 inch hex head. I snugged up all screws with a reasonable amount of torque well before risking stripping the threads. Only one cross member looked like it would benefit from a bolt drilled through the frame well away from the top or bottom. This was on the front crossmember ahead of the fresh water tank. This cross member is the one that had screws on both ends. So I'll likely drill for a 1/4 inch bolt through the frame. The flange at the end of this cross member is not flush with the frame, but is skewed. One of the two screws is in at an angle at the gap. After I get the through bolt in place, I may removed the skewed screw. Maybe with some heavy pounding I can get the flange end in contact with the frame. If not I'll get some washers to fill the gap. 

Yeah, when I mentioned installing a window in the door when I called about trying to purchase fabric that matched the original kitchen curtain fabric, I was told that installing a window voided the warranty on the door. As if installing a window destroyed the latch or hinge. The benefit of installing a window and through-bolting the brackets for the tanks was much greater than the fear of the door or frame failing.

By "installing a WD" do you mean Weight Distribution Hitch? If so, why would you need to drill into the frame? The brackets for my Equal-i-zer hitch use bolts above and below the frame to hold them in place. The only one I know of that suggests drilling is the Andersen, and even then, drilling all the way through is probably not needed. Drilling a depression for the set screw to grip is probably just as helpful.

I think you will not have any problems. What type of TV (Tow Vehicle) are you using that you got an RF brake controller? What made you decide on it instead of one like the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 or (the one that I have) the Hopkins InSIGHT Flex-Mount controller? If you don't already have the connector, you will have to run wiring anyway and the two I mentioned cost much less than the RF model I saw on eTrailer.com.

I understand. I have recently read where a BMW owner had to go the same route plus put in a "light out" device since the BMW didn't like the trailer's LED lights.

I'm glad your friend confirmed that it wouldn't be a problem. As for a pillow, yes, I guess that would have been nice. You will probably be done when you read this. Isn't it nice not to have to worry about the tanks falling off?