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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: R-Pod Owner Wannabe
    Posted: 16 May 2016 at 10:04pm
Originally posted by techntrek

Holly, get an online quote from Couch's.  I see you are already a member on their forum (you'll quickly see you'll do better hanging around here, but they can save you big money).

LOL - I am? I do not recall joining their forum...didn't know (or remember) that they had one!! :) I called on Saturday, I believe, and the guy I spoke with said that they did not have the 2 units I was interested in on the lot, even though they were on, I think, RVTrader. He did not show much interest in providing any further information. It's getting more and more difficult to find people these days to take your money...

But now that I've seen a unit, I'll go back to them. 

Now, where is that Forum? Star

ON EDIT: It's the RPod Nation forum? I liked it better over here!! 
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 9:51pm
I've been seriously thinking about getting a clamp-on ammeter (when this whole fridge thing came up). I'll shop around tomorrow. (that would be online shopping...I am far, far out in the boonies). 

So, if I don't care one bit about the light working - I can easily live without that light -  can't I just pull the silver thing that has the two black wires? (pulling it makes the light go out). 

I'll look at the outside compartment tomorrow with schematic in hand. 

I'm off to look at Lowe's for the meter...
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techntrek View Drop Down
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Posts: 9062 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 9:50pm
Holly, get an online quote from Couch's.  I see you are already a member on their forum (you'll quickly see you'll do better hanging around here, but they can save you big money).
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 9:32pm
First tell me if you can get or borrow a clamp on DC ammeter? An auto store like AutoZone may have one to lend.

If not, can you locate J2 in the back outside like the Zackdog (RV.net) first picture? That would be the second best.

The third option would be to just cut the larger black wire as a guess. Cutting either black wire will disable the heater, though the wrong wire will also kill the light. If all else fails it's worth a try. You may get lucky and retain the light. Either way the heater will be dead, but you have to cut one black (or red) wire. Be sure the trailer is unplugged from shore power and one wire of the main battery is disconnected before cutting. I recommend cutting the black wire because you will not have a hot wire floating around. Tape the cut wires and sleep well.
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 9:13pm
I don't care if the light works or not. So, in that case, what do I do? (I can make the best homemade pizza in the world, but read a schematic, or cut a wire without electrocution - not so much!)

Salesman would not come to a price I could live with. He only came down 14% off MSRP. Owner comes in tomorrow. I don't know if I'll hear from them or not. I haven't given up the ghost yet! 

A question - salesman told me that an overhead fan could NOT be installed in the main cabin, leaving the bathroom fan as the only possible fan. Is that true? 
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 9:03pm
Holly,

You definitely are presenting a problem. It appears from your picture that the heater and light are hardwired together like the second diagram in the RV.net post, labeled Appendix-C. To disable the heater and leave the light you will have to cut ONE of the red wires OR ONE of the black wires. Do you have access to or can borrow a clamp on ammeter? It will look like these and must measure DC current:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_0_11/187-5915115-2539268?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=clamp+on+amp+meter&sprefix=clamp+on+am%2Caps%2C271

If so you can easily determine which red or black wire to cut. If not it becomes a guessing game. You could take a lead from the your second RV.net post (by Zackdog) and assume the larger wire is the heater. If you cut it and the light still works you've won. If not it can be repaired and you start over again. Or you could then go and cut the other and just live without the light. Another option is to identify J2 in the back of the fridge and disconnect it. This should disable the heater AND the light. I can't tell from the pictures what J2 looks like physically so I can't help there. If you can ID J2 and it can be disconnected that would be the easiest.

All that said we don't want to discourage you from joining the RPOD club. How was your visit to PodLand?
Charlie
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 7:58pm
Here is another discussion (on IRV2) with photos (not mine)
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xyzhollyxyz View Drop Down
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Posts: 21 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 7:56pm
Ran out and took a picture of the light. I pulled the connection with the black wire and the light went out. I didnt' want to yank too hard on the white plastic thing with the red wires...I have been known to break things... Cry

So, what do I (we) do to cut off that heater thing and save our battery(ies)? HELP! 
(yes, I know the light is missing - for clarity...I put it back in place when I was done)
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Posts: 9062 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 7:31pm
Originally posted by fredtello1

Man... I have the dometic in my 177.... same issue with battery..... where exactly do I find the proper wire to disconnect???   what color is it and where is it located....  this is really good news!!!

This is only true on the larger models with the separate freezer.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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CharlieM View Drop Down
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2016 at 7:25pm
Originally posted by xyzhollyxyz

[QUOTE=fredtello1]

Here is a rather lengthy discussion, along with instructions, that was had over on rv dot net. (hope the link works).





If I understand the referenced diagrams and your picture, disconnecting the two wires connected to the one side of the light WILL NOT disable the heater. It just disables the light. The correct place to disconnect the heater is at the ground block in the rear outside access  panel. On my newer model the wire is a light blue and is connected directly to the ground stud. In the referenced RV.net postings, on the first schematic, that wire appears to be brown. On the second posted schematic appears to have both heater and light hard wired in parallel. Disconnecting the ground wire in the back will disable both, but I can't read the color. You could cut the heater wire at the light, but you must get the correct wire. The heater is item K on the schematic and MAY be a blue wire. All of this can be verified with an ammeter at the battery.
Charlie
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OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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