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AKRPod View Drop Down
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Joined: 04 Apr 2016
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Posts: 2 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Generator Size Question
    Posted: 02 May 2016 at 3:05pm
Thanks for your reply. It was very helpful!
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Posts: 9062 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2016 at 8:38pm
Don't get the puck style, get the dog-bone style!  Many, many failures of the puck types due to overheating.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Posts: 4518 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2016 at 9:23pm
Ditto!!
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Posts: 1676 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2016 at 11:14pm
I really thought Leo was more a [hockey] puck guy than dog-bone. Guess you just never know on the internets.

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Posts: 1407 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2016 at 11:26am
Originally posted by techntrek

Don't get the puck style, get the dog-bone style!  Many, many failures of the puck types due to overheating.

That makes little sense. Shorter conductor runs mean less resistance and, therefore, less power loss due to heat. The only explanation would be if manufacturers are grossly undersizing the conductors in the pucks.
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2016 at 12:15pm
Originally posted by TheBum

Originally posted by techntrek

Don't get the puck style, get the dog-bone style!  Many, many failures of the puck types due to overheating.

That makes little sense. Shorter conductor runs mean less resistance and, therefore, less power loss due to heat. The only explanation would be if manufacturers are grossly undersizing the conductors in the pucks.


Makes perfect sense. In this case it's all about contact resistance, not conductor length.  Poor, cheap contacts cause heating that leads to melting.
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Posts: 6418 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2016 at 12:20pm
I would think that if I were trying to run at the maximum load, it would be a problem. Running the battery charger, refrigerator, fan, and other low-power-draw items should not be an issue. Running the AC in addition to the above would be a scenario where I could expect problems.
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Posts: 1797 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2016 at 12:55pm
Originally posted by StephenH

I would think that if I were trying to run at the maximum load, it would be a problem. Running the battery charger, refrigerator, fan, and other low-power-draw items should not be an issue. Running the AC in addition to the above would be a scenario where I could expect problems.


You're essentially correct. Low wattage loads, no problem; A/C a definite no-no. The problem is intermediate loads. How 'bout running a 1500W heater for an unexpected overnight freeze; or a quick run of the electric WH to clean up the rig for next weekend? Why not just have a good adapter on hand and trash the cheap junque? No worries.
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Posts: 6418 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2016 at 1:18pm
A Camco puck, which is CSA certified, should hold up to the load of a 1500W heater. If it was rated for 15A, it should be okay up to that limit. Now, if it is put in an environment where there is moisture, causing corrosion, that would be a different situation. The one I have seems to be holding up well. The connectors seem to be pretty heavy-duty. I would not vouch that all pucks are well-made, but the one I have seems to be okay.
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Posts: 9062 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 May 2016 at 9:36pm
The problem is heat dissipation.  The pucks are nothing but a big wad of plastic that holds the heat in, so you run that 1500 watt heater and it overheats.  Eventually the contacts shift, you get arcing, and it fails.  It wouldn't surprise me at all if they all have undersized conductors, as cheap as they are.  That would amplify the problem.

The dog-bone style adapters give you a lot more exposed surface area so they can dissipate the heat, and have properly-sized conductors so there is less heat to begin with.  For the few extra bucks they cost they are worth it.  I just browsed Walmart and found a hockey puck for $6 and dog-bone for $19.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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