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Topic ClosedBattery disconnect

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TheBum View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Battery disconnect
    Posted: 10 Mar 2016 at 5:18pm
Originally posted by JohnBG

Originally posted by StephenH

Caution! If you are going to disconnect the battery either by disconnecting the terminal or by using a switch, make sure it is the NEGATIVE (-) terminal. I just finished my installation.
Why the negative?  With the positive connected there is still the chance you could accidentally ground something in the system causing sparkage.


Yes, but if the loose positive makes contact with the frame, you'd get much worse than sparkage, i.e. a short circuit.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2016 at 5:03pm
Originally posted by StephenH

Caution! If you are going to disconnect the battery either by disconnecting the terminal or by using a switch, make sure it is the NEGATIVE (-) terminal. I just finished my installation.

Why the negative?  With the positive connected there is still the chance you could accidentally ground something in the system causing sparkage.
2010 R-Pod RP-171
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2016 at 4:09pm
Originally posted by techntrek

3rd option that I used with our pod: Add a weatherproof fuse holder so it sticks outside of the battery box. Insert 30 amp fuse, pull fuse to disconnect.

I will probably do this eventually. It keeps everything sealed up while disconnected and is more reliable than a switch.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2016 at 2:54pm
Hmmmm, that does seem fairly simple! I just might give it a try! Thanks so much!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2016 at 9:28am
Originally posted by Idaklee

Stephen H, this is what my dealer offered me. But now I see the sign saying they changed their hourly rate to $130 an hour, I guess I'm going to pass!!   But thanks to everyone...I learn something new every time I visit!


That is excessive! It really is not a difficult job to install one. I looked for a place that would have adequate clearance between the top of the battery and top of the lid for me to mount the switch inside the cover. I used a drill with a hole saw to drill an appropriate size hole in the lid. I used stainless steel screws and locknuts to fasten the switch to the cover. Wiring is simple. Remove the cable from the negative terminal. Mount it to one post of the switch. Use another cable (your local auto parts store should have an appropriate one) to run between the other post of the switch and the negative terminal of the battery. Put cover back in place and you are done.

Nothing is beyond the abilities of the average person to do. If you can handle a screwdriver, wrench, and drill, you are more than capable of doing this yourself. If you don't have the tools, you could buy them and still be way ahead of paying the dealer to do this. In any case, a cordless drill is a handy thing to have. Team it with the appropriate socket and adapter, and you have a fast and easy way to lower/raise the stabilizer jacks. That alone makes the purchase of a cordless drill worthwhile. Thumbs Up
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 2016 at 8:00am
Stephen H, this is what my dealer offered me. But now I see the sign saying they changed their hourly rate to $130 an hour, I guess I'm going to pass!!   But thanks to everyone...I learn something new every time I visit!
Marcia from MN
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Max, Gracie & Greta
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2016 at 9:48pm
This is the one I purchased (pictured above):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DUUL9W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s0

It is supposed to be water tight. I anticipate it giving good service.
StephenH
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2016 at 8:13pm
Originally posted by kylekai

Originally posted by furpod

I put mine right on the battery box. It can actually be anywhere between the battery and the distribution box. Several have mounted them inside. Depending on the switch, $30 is probably mid pack..

I did exactly that, but about 2 months later I had no power in the r-pod.  After an exhaustive search, it was determined that the switch failed.  Removed the switch, and back to normal.  Maybe it got wet and rusted, I don't know.   Something to keep in mind.


We have had a couple owners have switch failures, usually a $3 switch that looks pretty much like mine. But Mine is an actual HELLA kill switch, going into it's 6th season, on it's second set of batteries and box, in a state that gets 60 inches of rain annually. No issues yet.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2016 at 6:02pm
Originally posted by furpod

I put mine right on the battery box. It can actually be anywhere between the battery and the distribution box. Several have mounted them inside. Depending on the switch, $30 is probably mid pack..

I did exactly that, but about 2 months later I had no power in the r-pod.  After an exhaustive search, it was determined that the switch failed.  Removed the switch, and back to normal.  Maybe it got wet and rusted, I don't know.   Something to keep in mind.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Mar 2016 at 5:13pm
I am with you Charlie.  
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"...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free."
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