Jeep JK Keeps Blowing Rear Shocks |
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PagosaJeep
Newbie Joined: 28 Jan 2016 Online Status: Offline Posts: 1 |
Topic: Jeep JK Keeps Blowing Rear Shocks Posted: 30 Jan 2016 at 8:15pm |
Hello I have a 2008 Jeep JK with a 4" lift and 35" tires. I own a Rpod RP-176T that I tow with it. Unfortunately, ever since I got the RV I keep blowing rear shocks. In the span of 1 year (since I've gotten the RV) I have gone through 2 sets of shocks. Sometimes just the driver side blows, sometimes both blow. The tongue weight of the RV per manufacturer is only 278lbs. I am a total newbie when it comes to shocks and pulling RVs, so I have no clue other than thinking the RV is too heavy for the Jeep. I was told by the RV dealership that my Jeep would easily pull the RV and that the GVWR was within range of my Jeep as long as the RV was not too overloaded, which it is not. Any ideas you guys have (please take into account my lack of knowledge) would be great. I have been pulling my skeeter bass boat with this Jeep for years with no blown shocks. If the RV is too heavy, is there anything I can do to remedy the problem besides pull it with something else? Lastly, the shocks on the Jeep are ProComp ES9000s. Both times the shocks were leaking fluid. I live in the mountains and go 4 wheeling a lot over mountain passes, so there is lots of opportunity for the shocks to over extend going over large rocks. I will be checking the bumper stops as soon as I get the Jeep back from the dealer, which is replacing the stocks. I bought Jeep used from the dealership with the lift kit and tires on it.
Thanks guys!
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Leo B
podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 13 Jan 2012 Location: Lyndonville, VT Online Status: Offline Posts: 4517 |
Posted: 30 Jan 2016 at 8:18pm |
Welcome to the group!
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Leo & Melissa Bachand
2017 Ford F150 2021 Vista Cruiser 19 csk Previously owned 2015 Rpod 179 2010 Rpod 171 |
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Tars Tarkas
Senior Member Joined: 14 Jan 2013 Location: Near Nashville Online Status: Offline Posts: 1448 |
Posted: 30 Jan 2016 at 9:39pm |
From what I can gather from a quick Google, you're at or over the towing limits of your Jeep. I couldn't find out anything about your max tongue weight, but you are quite likely over it.
You need to find out what your tongue and towing weight maxes are per your owner's manual or from Jeep, (not from someone who wanted to sell you a trailer), and you need to get an accurate measurement of your actual tongue weight, especially if you might be cutting it close. There are several variables that make the tongue weight per the manufacturer just a nominal estimate. How you load the pod, how much your battery weighs, how much propane you have (and I don't think the weight of the propane or the battery is included in the 278 lbs you mentioned, but I'm not sure) all affect your tongue weight, as well as the curb weight of the trailer. Then add in your personal gear and water, if you haul with water. The max tow weight for a Jeep JK is 3500 lbs. Some versions have a tow weight of 1000 lbs. I don't know if all this has anything to do with your shocks blowing, but it sounds like it could. TT |
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2010 176
FJ Cruiser |
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jimqbaum
Newbie Joined: 11 Jan 2016 Location: Virginia Online Status: Offline Posts: 39 |
Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 10:10am |
I concur with the 3500 lbs limit for the Jeep Wrangler. This was my deciding factor in purchasing the 171 as opposed to the other models.
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Have A Blessed Day
Pod 171 Ram Hemi tow truck. Got rid of the Jeep Wrangler. It was puny and girly |
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Location: MD Online Status: Offline Posts: 9062 |
Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 3:05pm |
You can do the heavier pods with a 3500 lb. limit, but all of the tanks (except propane) must be empty until you get to the campground. All I could find online for that year/model is the towing limit is anywhere from 1000 to 3500 lbs. depending on configuration. You'll have to take your VIN to a dealer to confirm. You may need to change the rear gearing, add tranny and/or oil coolers to get to the upper limit.
As for towing with a lifted TV, I would bet the components are already at their limits and the camper is too much. One option that may help is to get a good WDH (weight distribution hitch). This will remove some of the load from the rear suspension while effectively adding another suspension system to take some of the shock. The key will be ensuring it doesn't then overload the front suspension. Moving this to the pod section.
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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Ol-bird
Newbie Joined: 06 Jun 2015 Location: Central wa Online Status: Offline Posts: 7 |
Posted: 31 Jan 2016 at 10:42pm |
I tow a 179 with a 2013 JK with no prob, makes me think your lifts are a major reason for blown shocks.
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Don and Nancy Kelly
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outermostpod
Groupie Joined: 06 Nov 2013 Online Status: Offline Posts: 43 |
Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 4:26pm |
I agree with your assessment techntrek - I used to tow my 178 with a 2009 JK and it was right at the limit. Also, the OP should note that all of that lift gear will decrease the max tow capacity of the JK - especially those huge tires - they weight a lot more than the originals, and will significantly lower your max tow capacity. Agree that WDH might help - we towed with one - but our JK was stock. Even then, I didn't like it - so I traded it in for a Santa Fe with 5000 lb towing capacity. I was very upset to see my Jeep go, but the pod won out.
Agree that a tranny cooler is in order, and yes, check your rear gearing - because those big tires put a strain on your engine. You may also want to try a different shock brand - Old Man Emu makes some great shocks for JKs. Good luck! |
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Old Dingo&Mrs.Dingo
Senior Member Joined: 07 Jul 2012 Location: Tarentum, PA Online Status: Offline Posts: 138 |
Posted: 01 Feb 2016 at 4:47pm |
I never towed any distance with my TJ or my JK, so my personal experience is limited. Checking for extended bump stops are a good place to start. Keep in mind, while many tow with a lifted truck, not many people tow at the weight limit with a "lifted" coil sprung vehicle. Here are several things to look at: (You better do this your self, dealer techs usually just look for obvious problems.) Has the Jeep been lifted with an entire kit, or just longer springs. Meaning are the control arms stock, or aftermarket? If they are adjustable, are they both the exact same length? Different lengths will put the shocks in a bind, as will bent control arms. Are all the bushings on the rear control arms in good condition? Are the panhard rod bushings in good shape? Has the panhard rod been lowered or replaced with a lowered unit to compensate for the altered axle position? A lift will allow increased lateral movement even without good bushings. If you replace the bushing, use urethane rather than rubber to help keep the movement in check. This may sound crazy, but check all the bolts for tightness and "play" in the brackets. Jeep used a smaller bolt in the JK's suspension than the hole in the frame and axle brackets, apparently to facilitate easier assembly. (Something like an 11 mm bolt in a 1/2" hole, don't ask how I know.) These bolts should take some force to install, if you replace them, use grade 8 bolts. The ProComp ES9000s are good shocks but you are asking them to deal with both increased "un-sprung" weight and "sprung" weight, I'm not sure they were designed with that in mind. Make sure both the top and bottom of the shock are able to move slightly on their studs and bushings. Any shock binding will load the shaft to one side in the shock tube. If all above is correct, Just as Doug says maybe a WDH would absorb some of the increased "shock" associated with the sudden loading and unloading of the rear suspension while pulling a trailer.
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Old Dingo and/or Mrs. Dingo
181G 2013 Jeep Grand Cherokee |
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