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Luv2Q
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Joined: 30 Aug 2014
Location: Central TX
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Topic: GFCI Intermittent trip issue Posted: 14 Nov 2014 at 7:45pm |
Landry asked: Question - is there any type of device that we can use to protect from voltage issues if the problem is indeed at the campground? You say that problems with nearby RVs could be a problem for us. If this it true then what can we do about it? Any thoughts?
If the problem is indeed at the campground, what about a generator? Then, if you continue to have problems with the GFCI, you'll know it's a problem in the trailer somewhere. I think someone else suggested trying a different GFCI. That might be a good first step .. Just a thought.
Intriguing problem. Hope you'll keep us updated with your progress in getting the problem solved.
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John & Teri
Tundra 5.7L V8 / RP 180
E2 WDH / Integrated controller (POS) replaced by Tekonsha P3
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Luv2Q
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Posted: 14 Nov 2014 at 7:53pm |
Techntrek observed: Yes, a wiring problem with another RV can cause problems with your RV.
I'd like to know more. Can you explain/elaborate, or point me in the right direction? TIA
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John & Teri
Tundra 5.7L V8 / RP 180
E2 WDH / Integrated controller (POS) replaced by Tekonsha P3
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techntrek
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Posted: 14 Nov 2014 at 9:50pm |
Landry - I believe all of the outlets in the pod are protected by the GFCI since they are all close to water sources.
As for wiring issues in other RVs causing a problem in yours, that is one of the things Mike Sokol talks about in his videos (in the thread I mentioned earlier). For example, let's say an entire row of power poles has a bad earth ground connection at the utility panel. The grounds between the power poles are still connected. This is a problem I found this past summer at a campground near Great Sand Dunes because I tested my site when we pulled in. So far not a safe condition but not deadly, and not caused by another RV. Now the microwave in your neighbor's RV malfunctions from one too many bumps in the road, and its cabinet is electrified. Normally this current would be diverted to ground because it is connected to the microwave cabinet, and back at the utility panel it would be connected to the ground rod which would prevent your neighbor from being shocked. However, in this case the ground is electrified because of the problem at the utility panel - which means everything else on the ground is live. Your microwave, your camper frame. It was raining, the ground is wet, and you walk up and grab the door handle (like I did in my story in that other thread). Zap. Same thing could happen if your neighbor's RV has an outlet wired with reverse polarity. This problem would be immediately identified if you use the NCVT to test your camper's frame.
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The Pod Squad
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Posted: 14 Nov 2014 at 10:56pm |
We had a GFCI tripping problem. Turned out it was a leaky kitchen sink drain. When we did the dishes it would leak below onto the Molex connectors, tripping the GFCI.
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CharlieM
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Posted: 15 Nov 2014 at 8:00am |
Originally posted by techntrek
As for wiring issues in other RVs causing a problem in yours, that is one of the things Mike Sokol talks about in his videos (in the thread I mentioned earlier).
| Thanks Doug. I would never have thought of that chain of failures. As Murphy says - Where there's a will, there's a way. However, I wonder if this fault would be detected by a 3-light tester or a SurgeGuard. If you're the first to connect to the faulty CG circuit the ground connection would appear to me absent. The hot-to gnd light would be out. When the guy with the defective micro plugs in your h-g light would still be out, but your n-g light would illuminate. Of course, if he comes in late and you're not watching the 3-light you'd miss it. Your thoughts?
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Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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techntrek
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Posted: 15 Nov 2014 at 9:27am |
The 3 light tester or SurgeGuard would fault on the missing ground in the scenerio above, yes. You are also right that problems that occur after you do your testing won't be caught. If the missing ground happens later then the SurgeGuard would catch it, but read on...
Neither of them will detect the special condition that Mike mentions. Off the top of my head I think it is a reverse-polarity outlet with a bootleg ground connection (tied to neutral and not a proper ground). That will electrify your frame (and everyone elses) as well, but all plug-in testers will report that its completely normal. Only the NCVT test will catch this!
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CharlieM
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Posted: 15 Nov 2014 at 9:51am |
Agreed the reverse polarity AND the bootleg ground would produce the hot chassis. Lots of thing have to go wrong (multiple screw ups), but then, Murphy is alive and well . Camp on.
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Charlie
Northern Colorado
OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD
PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD
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techntrek
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Posted: 15 Nov 2014 at 6:35pm |
Every major disaster boils down to a chain of "bad things" that contributed something to the final result.
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Landry
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Posted: 22 Dec 2014 at 9:53pm |
Found two issues with the electrical that certainly do not speak well for the R-Pod: 1. The exterior outlet and "weatherproof cover" is a piece of crap. You cannot avoid getting water inside the darn outlet - which leads to tripping the GFI. Do you have any suggestions for a better quality exterior outlet and a more weatherproof cover?
2. Simply unbelievable - although I don't know if this is an issue of factory or dealer incompetence - underneath the sink drain (the most likely place water might be found) there were two 110v quick connections attached. I found them after hearing the sizzling sound electricity makes when it is wet. I fixed the problem by installing a box with proper wiring and connections. Funny thing is that there was plenty of room and wire slack to mount those connections in a safer place - why the heck mount them there? unbelievable
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R-Pod 176T
Pilot Ex-L
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techntrek
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Posted: 23 Dec 2014 at 8:52am |
Sorry to hear of those issues, more than one person has commented on the diminishing build quality in the recent model years. The only recommendation I can give is to go to the big-box stores and inspect their weatherproof covers before buying. I'd look for a good stiff spring that keeps the cover (or covers - some have individual covers for each outlet) in place when not in use. You can buy large covers which are designed to be weatherproof even with something plugged in, but they stick out so I'm not sure I'd want that on the side of my camper.
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