My ARB, I actually measured it yesterday, draws 4A at startup, which drops to around 3.5 after a minute or so, then oddly rises to around 5A after several minutes. I'm guessing that has to do with pressures in the system.
It is difficult to compare different fridge's actual 24 hour current draw, since there doesn't appear to be a standardized test. Maybe someone has done one and published it but I haven't found it.
A lower draw compressor is of course meaningless if the insulation is poor and it runs a lot more.
One plus to any of them when actually on the move and planning an overnight stop at a WalMart or truck stop- they don't have to be anywhere near level like the absorption fridges. I've spent the night at several that were pretty far off and that was a concern.
Off level can not only cause poor cooling it can actually ruin an absorption fridge from what I've read.
On our upcoming long trip we plan to travel light in the perishable dept, if it doesn't fit in the ARB it isn't going. Once we approach a destination where we'll be for awhile then we'll restock the Dometic.
When I built my own interior in the Four Wheel truck camper shell model I bought, I used a NovaKool marine 12v compressor fridge, no worries about stopping wherever whenever as to off level. Only draw back is yes on a long term (several days) stop the 12v consumption can be an issue, but then we never did that in the truck camper.
BTW it also uses a Danfoss compressor and still going strong after 10+ years.
What would be really "Cool" (pun intended) would be if someone made an RV absorption fridge that ALSO had a 12V compressor. Best of both worlds, superior cooling when on compressor with a lower current draw than the present 12V heater/absorption mode, but had the efficient propane when needed.