I made an expensive mistake

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   Thanks.   Will do.  I've got a buddy who is an electrician.  I'll be having him do it for me.

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spacemonkey Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 04 Oct 2013 Location: TX Online Status: Offline Posts: 32	Topic: I made an expensive mistake Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 6:08pm
	Thanks. Will do. I've got a buddy who is an electrician. I'll be having him do it for me.

CharlieM Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Nov 2012 Location: N. Colorado Online Status: Offline Posts: 1797	Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 2:20pm
	Spacemonkey, One last caution: make sure the rewired connector on you house is wired correctly. It's easy to interchange the hot and neutral wires. Best to check with a meter or a plug-in circuit checker with a 30A to 15 A adapter before hooking up that neat Pod again.
	Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD

spacemonkey Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 04 Oct 2013 Location: TX Online Status: Offline Posts: 32	Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 1:24pm
	Awesome. Thanks a million. I will do all those checks. Sounds like I may get away cheaper than I was thinking. The water heater was not in ac mode. The fridge was off but I'll check it anyways.. Thanks again. I will report back and let you know what I find.

CharlieM Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Nov 2012 Location: N. Colorado Online Status: Offline Posts: 1797	Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 12:25pm
	Budward's got it covered. 'Nuff said. Just check everything.
	Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD

Budward Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 21 Apr 2014 Location: SC/NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 438	Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 12:01pm
	The standard convertor is 55 amp, but it would pay to check the label before ordering one, sometimes they substitute things. The fridge has a plug inside the outside lower panel, just turn the fasteners 1/4 turn and pull the panel off. The only AC part in the fridge is the heating element when on AC. If the fridge wasn't on in AC mode it should be unharmed. All the controls are 12V. As for the TV fuses- they can be either- soldered in or plug in, probably soldered. The ignitor in the WH is 12V, unless the 110 AC element was switched on it should be good. I would run the aircon for awhile to be sure it is good. It probably doesn't have the optional heating element but it might. You might get off relatively cheaply- it could have been much worse up to burning the trailer down!
	2014 179 Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle!

spacemonkey Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 04 Oct 2013 Location: TX Online Status: Offline Posts: 32	Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 11:41am
	another question... What about my water heater? I know its gas, but i think the igniter is electric? Is there anything i need to check in relation to my water heater that you can think of? As for my ac unit. Is the best way to check it by plugging it in and letting it run for a half hour or so to see if it cools and then switch over to heat and make sure thats working too?

spacemonkey Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 04 Oct 2013 Location: TX Online Status: Offline Posts: 32	Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 11:25am
	Thank you so much for the replies. I definately will be rewiring the plug correctly. I was not aware the the power converter had additional fuses besides those in the fuse box. I will definately check those before ordering a new one. If i do have to replace it, i will plan on the upgrade you guys mention. Thanks for that info. I see they have three different ones 35, 45 and 55 amp. The one you mention is a 55 amp. Is that the correct one for my trailer? As for the water pump. I will try messing with it again and make sure. I was not hooked into city water when i tried, however i did not open a faucet. In the past when i first switched on the pump it would make a momentary sound even with the faucets being off. Perhaps there is already enough pressure on the lines that it just did not kick on. I will recheck it to be sure. I consider myself pretty handy, so i will give pulling the tv apart and checking fuses. Cant hurt to try since it already doesnt work. Do yall know... are the fuses on the tv something easily replacable, or are they soldered to the circuit board? I guess I need to try my fridge again to make sure its working. O ran it for a half hour the other day while plugged in with the trailers shoreline and it seemed to work, but I suppose i should retest it again and make sure. I did not know you can plug it in to a power cord. Is the plug for it behind the panel on the outside of my trailer, or do I need to pull the fridge from the compartment to access it? Thanks again for all the advice. It at least gives me a place to start and the possibility of fixing these things myself. Hopefully your fixes will work. I will report back when I get a chance to look at it tomorrow.

Budward Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 21 Apr 2014 Location: SC/NC Online Status: Offline Posts: 438	Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 9:21am
	I'm in agreement on the PD units being better. I have one on hand for when the WFCO dies..in fact when I get time I will probably install it and place the WFCO in spare status. I have read of numerous WFCO failures and rarely read of PD failures. I too like the Charge Wizard option- played with it some testing the PD, I especially like being able to force the unit into the different charging modes.
	2014 179 Towed by a 2015 Ford Transit Diesel Supervised by a German/Aussie mix and a Labradoodle!

CharlieM Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Nov 2012 Location: N. Colorado Online Status: Offline Posts: 1797	Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 9:11am
	Spacemonkey, I'm sorry to hear of you misfortune. I can only say There for he grace of Murphy go I. I could have made the same assumption about the socket. I hope the converter damage is limited to fuses, but if it's not and you have to replace the converter, consider upgrading to the Progressive Dynamics model PD4655V. This is a replacement converter section specifically designed to replace the WFCO 8955 in the Pod. http://www.progressivedyn.com/pd4600_converter_replacement.html I had the WFCO in my Pod and now have the PD in my Camplite. The PD "Charge Wizard" does a better job of equalizing the batteries and generally seems to be a more reliable product. I'm very happy with it. Replacement looks straightforward although disassembly/reassembly and disconnection/reconnection are required. The water pump is puzzling. It's a motor and should be fairly tolerant of momentary over voltage exposure. I would expect the converter fuses and/or the converter itself to blow first. Note that the water pump will not come on unless city water is disconnected and a Pod faucet is turned on.
	Charlie Northern Colorado OLD: 2013 RP-172, 2010 Honda Pilot 3.5L 4WD PRESENT: 2014 Camplite 21RBS, 2013 Supercharged Tacoma 4L V6 4WD

furpod Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Moderator Group - pHp Joined: 25 Jul 2011 Location: Central KY Online Status: Offline Posts: 6128	Posted: 19 Jul 2014 at 7:39am
	Your converter does in fact have it's own fuses to protect it. Open the door on the power distribution pane. There should be 2 screws holding the whole cover assembly on, loosen those, they should be captive. the bottom of the cover should be "tabbed" lift it out and up. The box you see down below the breaker and fuse panel is the converter. On one end or the other should be 2-3 large automotive fusses, check those. The converter is on a 120v breaker so make sure they are all reset. EDIT.. BTW, a plug in or hardwired surge protector will protect your trailer from such issues. We use the Progressive Industries hard wired.