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The E Train
Groupie
Joined: 09 Jun 2012
Location: Western, NY
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Posts: 88
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Topic: Sacrificial Anode Replacement Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 3:49pm |
Here is a pic of my sacrificial anode after the first year of use. My unit was manufactured in Nov. 2011, purchased new in June 2012. Do I need to replace the anode?
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"What happens in the POD, stays in the POD."
2002 Dakota (pulling a) 2012 R-Pod 176T
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HuronSailor
podders Helping podders - pHp
Joined: 10 Jun 2009
Location: Owosso MI
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Posts: 704
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Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 4:21pm |
I would, definitely.
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.: Mark & Beth :: Silverado 5.3L :: 2018 rPod 180 :.
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Camper Bob
podders Helping podders - pHp
Joined: 26 Sep 2011
Location: Portland Oregon
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Posts: 913
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Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 4:38pm |
According to my RV tech, you do not have to replace your anode until all of the sacrified metal is gone. That being said, do what you are most comfortable doing. After all, a new anode is about $14. Safe Travels.
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Camper Bob and Camper Sue
Gracie the Wonder Dog (12 LB. Mini Dachshund)
2013 Rpod 171HRE(ORPod)
2016 Lance 1685
2015 Nissan Pathfinder
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coopercdrkey
podders Helping podders - pHp
Joined: 26 Aug 2012
Location: Cedar Key, FL
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Posts: 457
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Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 5:23pm |
For what it's worth, I vote to replace.
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Bob and Joyce
Jennifer and Baxter, the Campin' Cocker Spaniels
RP 177 "Key Pod"
Chevrolet Silverado 1500 LT / Z71
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Footslogger03
Senior Member
Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Location: Laramie, WY
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Posts: 362
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Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 6:33pm |
I'd replace it myself ...but I am curious why the deteriorization appears to be concentrated near the outboard end of the anode. I have a 20012 model 177 and bought it in October of last year. I pulled the anode a few weeks ago and it had some pot holes here and there but well distributed along the shaft. Mine is still good to go ...but I bought a 2-pack of replacement Suburban magnesium anodes anyway, just to have on hand.
'Slogger
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Livin' the Dream ...'Slogger
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techntrek
Admin Group - pHp
Joined: 29 Jul 2009
Location: MD
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Posts: 9062
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Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 6:52pm |
Still looks serviceable to me, the recommendation from Suburban is to replace after it is 75% gone. That looks more like 25% gone.
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Outbound
podders Helping podders - pHp
Joined: 19 Nov 2009
Location: Oshawa, Ontario
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Posts: 767
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Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 9:31pm |
Bah! Its perfectly fine. At that rate, you've got years of life in it yet.
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Craig :: 2009 RP171 towed by a 2017 F150
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The E Train
Groupie
Joined: 09 Jun 2012
Location: Western, NY
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Posts: 88
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Posted: 07 Oct 2012 at 10:54pm |
I agree with 'Slogger, why is the end near the threads that way? Is it designed like that to keep the magnesium (assuming it is Mg) away from the tank wall? Or is it just "sacrificed?"
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"What happens in the POD, stays in the POD."
2002 Dakota (pulling a) 2012 R-Pod 176T
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TIDALWAVE
Senior Member
Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: MINNESOTA
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Posts: 315
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Posted: 08 Oct 2012 at 8:57am |
The female threaded connection on my heater appears to be steel-iron. Then galvanic action would be concentrated near the wall end of the rod. I replace my anode rods before the central 'wire' shows. One rod broke the central wire and rattled around in the heater until I could get a 'grabber' tool into the heater and carefully pulled the remaining piece of the rod out of the heater.
I also found out that the rod would leave a grey magnesium sludge in the tank. The sludge would then flush out in the spring clogging the sink and shower faucets. So after removing the rod, I flush out the heater tank through the rod opening. Then I replace the anode rod each fall with a simple plastic plug which keeps debris out and creatures from crawling into the heater.
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TIDALWAVE
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Goose
Senior Member
Joined: 24 Sep 2010
Location: Arizona
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Posts: 672
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Posted: 08 Oct 2012 at 10:53pm |
I do like TIDALWAVE, take the spray nozzel for the hose and clean the tank of any garbage that is in there, dry and close it up in the fall. I intend to replace the rod in the spring as it was at about 2/3's good at the start of this year after two years of use. Goose
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Mother Goose's Caboose..2011 RP171..07 Grand Cherokee
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