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Outriggers Forest River parts

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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Outriggers Forest River parts
    Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 12:15pm
StephenH, I think what you did is fine, there really isn't that much load on the screws. You also used more than two per bracket, right? 

The reason I asked is because it looks like FR's kit is designed to run a long TEK screw through both frame walls. Not having ever tried to do that with a TEK screw I wonder how controllable that is, as does JA-Pod and mjlrpod. Since you haven't tried it either I think I'll stick to the recommendation with FR's kit to add a backing plate and use through bolts. 

I don't think you need to change anything you did unless you see some kind of issue we're not thinking of.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 11:32am
No, I used shorter ones. Would it be better to go through both walls?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 11:10am
Originally posted by StephenH

It looks like the factory ones were made to be attached to both. I may have to revisit mine and put a couple of screws in at the outside edge close to the wall also.

No need. The slide resting on the brackets will keep it from sagging. Gravity being what it is its not like you have to hold the slide down because its going to see negative g loads and be wanting to jump up in the air.LOL

Did you use long TEK screws and go through both walls of the frame tubes? 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote StephenH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 11:01am
I used the same type of self-tapping screws that FR used for the tank supports to attach mine to the frame. I used three of them for each support I made. I have not had the opportunity to get out on the road to see how well it holds up, but I suspect it will be just fine. I did notice that it makes a difference in the height of the slide over the ottomans as it had been nearly dragging the top of the covers. Now there is additional space above them for clearance. I only attached them to the frame. I did not attach it to the side wall or the floor bottom. It looks like the factory ones were made to be attached to both. I may have to revisit mine and put a couple of screws in at the outside edge close to the wall also.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote mjlrpod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 10:38am
Originally posted by Pod_Geek

I would love to see a picture of where these are installed by FR on, say, a 196/196, and also a discussion of how to determine if one's slideout is in fact causing said sag.

This is all news to me.

You HAVE outriggers on your 195. Take a look underneath. The 195 has 4  or 5 of these on each side of the camper. 
As far as tack welding them, I agree that that isn't as good an idea now that the frame is actually on the camper. I think a 1/4 thick, 2 x 5 backer plate on the inner edge of the frame might be the best way now.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Pod_Geek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 9:30am
I would love to see a picture of where these are installed by FR on, say, a 195/196, and also a discussion of how to determine if one's slideout is in fact causing said sag.

This is all news to me.
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Post Options Post Options   Quote offgrid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 9:23am
The max bending stress in the frame tubes is on the top and bottom surfaces and the sidewalls immediately adjacent. Looking at the parts the through holes for the self tapping screws are well away from those areas, so I don't think the outrigger attachment will appreciably weaken the frame. If you're concerned about it keep the outriggers away from the axle attachments as that is where the frame tubes encounter the highest bending loads. 

If it were me I would make up backing plates to go on the inside of the frame rails and use bolts rather than self tappers. Not really needed structurally but that would make it easier to adjust the amount of compression on the frame rails, I'm just not sure how uniform that can be when driving a self tapper through two steel walls. As you say that is an unusual way to use self tapping screws. 
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JA-Pod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 8:53am
there have been cases where the slide out is putting pressure on the walls and floor of the rigs causing over time for the floors to sag above the fender area,  FR has produced these supports to beef up the body/frame area                                                   
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Post Options Post Options   Quote geewizard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 8:48am
Ummm, what are they used for?
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Post Options Post Options   Quote JA-Pod Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2020 at 8:46am
good replys,  thanks,  I originally considered welding these on as I do not want to compromise the frame by drilling holes but in talking to a welding shop they are concerned re the heat that would generate for the frame itself and weaken the steel (its thin)  and secondly   the water repellant membrane covering the wood floor would be subject to melting.  I find it odd that FR would send self tapping screws that would go through the entire frame.  I will get a second opinion from the welding shop,  perhaps discuss just tac welding and be done with it as mentioned.  I have to remember that these are precaution supports only as the floor is still in good shape,  no sagging.  appreciate the input!

mjlrpod  would you have pictures of your tac welded supports on your 195?


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