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ChewadaJ
Newbie
Joined: 03 Jul 2020
Location: Southj Carolina
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Posts: 18
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Topic: Extreme Water Damage Posted: 26 Aug 2020 at 5:49pm |
Lindsay, any update on your repair? I have a 2010 172 that had some similar damage. Not a whole lot of floor drop, but a lot of mold and the whole floor under the vinyl got wet and stayed wet for while. I did have some major plywood rot happening, and the smell when I removed all the viny! Whew! Like a swamp. Currently it's drying. I had to pretty much take up everything I could (kithchen area, the bottom bunk, storage in the rear) to get it cleaned up. I'm looking at a remodel now, and wondering how I can get the floor to stop smelling before I put something new on top of it.
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offgrid
Senior Member
Joined: 23 Jul 2018
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Posts: 5290
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Posted: 27 Aug 2020 at 7:11am |
I have had some luck sealing subfloor with gflex epoxy from West Systems. It will even adhere to a damp surface and it creates an impermeable barrier. It is slightly flexible after cure which is good.
But you have to start with a solid intact surface for the epoxy to stick to. The plywood in the rpod floor apparently does not use very water resistant adhesives so you will need to allow it time to fully dry and then see if the plywood is delaminating. Very likely it is, in which case it will be difficult to seal.
I would also assume that the floor sandwich is no longer structurally sound and plan on adding "outriggers" to support the walls as some others here have done. Do that before sealing the floor on the interior. And then a new plywood layer on top of the existing sealed-up floor.
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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold
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ChewadaJ
Newbie
Joined: 03 Jul 2020
Location: Southj Carolina
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Posts: 18
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Posted: 28 Aug 2020 at 2:07pm |
Thank you offgrid. Amazingly, the floor hasn't dropped and is overall in good condition considering.
I need to get under the shower and the bin where the hot water heater is to try to get the vinyl up there still. I'm in the south, and my storage place doesn't have power so I'm using the batter to run a fan and small dehumidifier, and recharging the battery as needed....so it's slow going. My current plan is once it's dry, treat the plywood with something to prevent more mold and treat the smell, and then put 1/8" plywood on top of everywhere I can. Keep it like that for a season and see if i got all the leaks, and then put some floor down. I'll be remodeling the kitchen area (probably taking out the sink and stove, as we usually cook outside anyways).
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ChewadaJ
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Joined: 03 Jul 2020
Location: Southj Carolina
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Posts: 18
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Posted: 28 Aug 2020 at 2:15pm |
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lostagain
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Joined: 06 Sep 2016
Location: Quaker Hill, CT
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Posted: 28 Aug 2020 at 5:48pm |
Remember even after the water is dried out, mold and mildew persist in the air inside the trailer. Some people can be very sensitive to mold and mildew spores, wet or dry. Mycotoxicosis can be a serious problem for those who are sensitive to mold. So be careful and pay attention to how you are feeling when inside your Pod. Hopefully, no one will have any symptoms.
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Never leave footprints behind.
Fred & Maria Kearney
Sonoma 167RB
Our Pod 172
2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost
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ChewadaJ
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Joined: 03 Jul 2020
Location: Southj Carolina
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Posts: 18
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Posted: 01 Sep 2020 at 6:52am |
Thank you Lost and offgrid. All good points. Somehow, the floor isn't falling through at any point right now. I have a dehumidifier running at nigh, and fans on 24/7. I'm having to get the vinyl up in small chunks under the fridge and the bath/shower. I don't want to remove, nor do I thing I can remove those really. From what I can tell, the layering on the bottom went
Vinyl floor/linoleum paper plyboard foam plyboard black waterproof sheet
I'm wondering if that bottom plyboard is wet too? It's hard to tell, but the smell is horrible after removing the vinyl flooring. I feel like I'll need to get rid of the mold I can see up top (I've read threads about people using everything from anti freeze, to expensive mixtures), sand sand some of the board, and then put some type of sealant down on top of that. Then put a layer of new plywood down on the open area (flooring not underneath anything).
Anyone have any experience with this:
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lostagain
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Joined: 06 Sep 2016
Location: Quaker Hill, CT
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Posted: 01 Sep 2020 at 7:47am |
Once the wood is contaminated with mold, it is very difficult to eliminate the odor. You can mask it by using something that overpowers your nose, but the mold remains and as soon as the masking fragrance evaporates you'll smell the mold again. Bleach will kill the mold on the surface of the wood, but will not kill the hyphae [roots] inside the wood, so you can count on it returning when ever it has enough moisture to sustain itself. Supposedly vinegar will kill the hyphae, as will borax, but it is difficult to saturate the wood and substrate with a solution of either, especially under the cabinetry. Most mold remediation requires complete removal of the contaminated material.
Keep in mind, when you sand or otherwise disturb the moldy plywood or substrate you are spreading mold spores into the air. If there is sufficient humidity, they'll start growing again. Also, if you are sensitive to mold, you will need adequate PPE when ever you are inside the trailer.
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Never leave footprints behind.
Fred & Maria Kearney
Sonoma 167RB
Our Pod 172
2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost
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offgrid
Senior Member
Joined: 23 Jul 2018
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Posts: 5290
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Posted: 01 Sep 2020 at 7:48am |
That floor construction sounds about right, here is a video so you can see the floor laminate assembly. Its hard to imagine the bottom ply layer not being wet if the top one is, gravity being what it is. Drill a couple of inspection holes in the bottom layer in your wettest areas to see if the water got in there. taking care to avoid hitting any plumbing and electrical. You can always re-seal them later.
It's important to note that it is a laminated sandwich assembly, and derives much of its strength from the adhesive bond tying the whole assembly together. If your floor has wet through, even if you dry it out, you won't be able to count on the floor being strong enough to support the walls or the center areas of the floor (any areas distant from the main frame rails).
So, consider adding "outriggers" tied back to the frame rails to provide external support to the walls, and additional cross bracing between the frame rails for any soft center areas. Both of these mods have been done before so you aren't the first, you can do a search on the forum for them.
I doubt you can ever get rid of the small totally. Once everything is fully dried, if it was me I would apply a coating of West Systems g-Flex epoxy to the entire old floor surface to seal it up. Then add your new plywood on top of that. I once did that in a room in a house I remodelled where the previous owners left dogs to urinate and it worked for that smell. It's not cheap though.
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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold
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ChewadaJ
Newbie
Joined: 03 Jul 2020
Location: Southj Carolina
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Posts: 18
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Posted: 01 Sep 2020 at 2:03pm |
Great thank you all!
Offgrid, what would you use to seal the water barrier if I drill through it to test for water?
I like the idea of having a seal above it all if nothing else. It's only a 172 so it's not a lot of space (6x17 really?). I think it's going to take a lot longer to dry out than I first imagined. As it continues to dry, the plyboard is breaking apart more and more in the really damaged area right up front where the bottom bunk would be). Today I pulled some more out, and pretty easily got down to the styrofoam layer.
So, best not to begin, but once begun better finish! Read that some where years ago. I'm committed now!
I think I'll only need 'outriggers' in that front area. I'll send more pics as I get it going.
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offgrid
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Joined: 23 Jul 2018
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Posted: 01 Sep 2020 at 2:49pm |
I think any good quality polyurethane roofing caulk would be fine. You're only taking about a few small holes.
You might want to buy one of these. They're cheap and you might be able to just push the pins through the underlayment to check the moisture level in there. And to see if the top is getting dry too. Very handy tool.
If the top ply layer is delaminating as it dries then it has basically lost all its structural strength. You can't remove all of it without also removing the interior walls and lifting up the sidewalls. so you will need to adhere/attach your new top plywood layer well to the existing damaged plywood so it can be a substitute. That will require getting things as dry as possible. which will take forever in South Carolina this time of year. Maybe try putting a heater in the rpod to accelerate getting the humidity out, or wait for lower humidity this fall/winter, One nice thing about the g flex epoxy is that it adheres well to wood that is still a little damp.
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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold
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