Micro-Air easy start

The a/c fan runs continuously, the compressor cycles on and off as needed to keep the rpod cool. The compressor is what needs high current to run, and even higher to start. You can tell when the compressor starts and stops by listening to the change in sound and the change in load on the genny. The fan doesn't take much current at all to run.

Just did the same. Very happy now.
The situation was bad. Purchased the yamaha 2000is v2 pair with parallel cable. Overloaded generators in every permutation I could come up with. The A/C would not start. Today, happy to test and could not overload the genies with several scenarios running A/C. I was pissed about the yamaha performance, now I think it was the (and I will get this wrong) lock start amperage of the dometic unit causing the issue and overloading the generators. I can start A/C with eco mode, run the microwave, fridge, water heater, pump, etc.

First post. Wish I read this sooner. Bought the 195 in August 2019.

I paid $200 ($500 total, including the 364) for the installation of the micro-air 364 instead of scaring my girlfriend to death with DIY. Micro-air recommends rv spots nation wide, and one was close by NW Houston.

Originally posted by Olddawgsrule Originally posted by StephenH That green color reminds me of a pickup camper that my dad built many years ago. It was a bit larger IIRC, with a bed above the cab. Later, they sold that and bought a commercial one that was even larger. I probably have pictures of it somewhere. What you built looks pretty good. It will be interesting to see a picture of it when it is finished. Edit:  Nice web site. Thank you and thank you! The purpose of this build was two fold. I want a over-night style camper I don't have to tow and I wanted to learn this foam built system.  My build thread is here: http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=71879 It been a great learning process and I like the system. Several things I would do different, LOL, learning curve thing!

Thanks. I like the idea, but lack the place in which to do likewise.

Originally posted by Olddawgsrule The two working on that portion had thoughts leading back to the Frequency/back feed recovery circuit they had devised. That was way over my head, yet they were into it. No, it's just a Sleeper Cap. I wanted something I could Overland and stay for the night. I will have my portable lithium power back for lighting and basic re-charging.

Originally posted by offgrid On the low light thing, there ain't no free lunch.  Bottom line is that PV cell/module Isc varies linearly with irradiance (more photons= more current). As you can't extract any power at Isc, the only thing you can do is to get modules made with the best quality cells you can.  That way they have low shunt resistance and as high a fill factor as possible so that their Vmp and efficiency doesn't fall off dramatically at low light levels. High quality mono cells work best.  Beyond that, knowing that Vmp will still be pretty low at low irradiance, you can use a MPPT to extract as much power as possible. That's the basic physics of PV devices, not something you can change, so I don't see what additional electronics can do for you.  Since low light implies diffuse light, you can tune the glass ar coating to enhance light collection at high incidence angles. That's probably what your coatings guy was working on. There are also spectral differences under low light conditions, so in theory you could tune the cell ar coating to improve low light collection, but in practice you don't really want to hurt your direct high irradiance performance in the process because even in a cloudy place most energy collection comes on clear days as direct not diffuse.