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Topic: Dome Light Wiring Shorted Internally Posted: 29 Oct 2010 at 5:36pm |
Originally posted by HuronSailor
Originally posted by David
Going to try running my radio off of the WFCO - just for the halibut. Worked OK here, but it was not charging the battery. I don't know if the WFCO would work well charging AGM batteries??? |
At one time I had a ham station on my boat, and the 3 stage charger was filthy dirty RF-wise, so I'm interested to see how the WFCO affects your signal. Of course, I also tended to affect things around me when I transmitted. CW made the lights on the compass binnacle flash, and I once tripped out the GFCI breakers on a nearby box in a marina in Canada.
Also, I believe AGM and gel cell batteries require different charging voltages than the flooded batteries normally supplied with the pods.
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Thanks for the info, Huron. The power supplies seem to be fine for everything except radios. I have tried the following, with the most noisy to the least noisy on receive. TX wise, no negative comments from anyone using any of the scenarios:
1. Shore power, WFCO on using power, charging battery (S-9+20 chirp), and TV antenna amplifier on (radio was running off of a separate switching power supply). I did not even try to TX, as I could not hear anyone.
2. As above, but not charging battery (about S-7)
3. As above, but also TV amp off (about S-4-5)
4. Shore power, WFCO on, TV amp off, with radio tapped into distribution panel** - WFCO +battery (about S-3)
5. Battery only, darned near like 2 meter FM...no noise, other than natural atmospheric  . I had no trouble copying New Zealand (LSB 40M), who was S-0!
** The last 2 slots on my distribution panel will accept 30 amp circuits (should be the same on Pod).
I took along a 2 meter HT and listened to myself on FM and it seemed clean.
However, as I have 2 good power supplies sitting around, I am going to swap out the WFCO and add a West Mountain PWRgate to handle the charging/switching duties and go with 2-3 AGM type batteries - which I can mount inside the camper....it's only money  .
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techntrek
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Posted: 22 Oct 2010 at 2:55pm |
Gel cells and AGMs are two different types of batteries. Snippets from windsun.com's battery FAQ:
"Gel Cells" … disadvantages…. they must be charged at a slower rate (C/20) to prevent excess gas from damaging the cells. They cannot be fast charged on a conventional automotive charger or they may be permanently damaged. <snip> Some other disadvantages of gel cells is that they must be charged at a lower voltage (2/10th's less) than flooded or AGM batteries. <snip> The newer AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries have all the advantages (and then some) of gelled, with none of the disadvantages. <snip> The charging voltages are the same as for any standard battery - no need for any special adjustments or problems with incompatible chargers or charge controls.
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HuronSailor
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Posted: 22 Oct 2010 at 1:05pm |
Originally posted by David
Going to try running my radio off of the WFCO - just for the halibut. Worked OK here, but it was not charging the battery. I don't know if the WFCO would work well charging AGM batteries??? |
At one time I had a ham station on my boat, and the 3 stage charger was filthy dirty RF-wise, so I'm interested to see how the WFCO affects your signal. Of course, I also tended to affect things around me when I transmitted. CW made the lights on the compass binnacle flash, and I once tripped out the GFCI breakers on a nearby box in a marina in Canada.
Also, I believe AGM and gel cell batteries require different charging voltages than the flooded batteries normally supplied with the pods.
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.: Mark & Beth :: Silverado 5.3L :: 2018 rPod 180 :.
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cane2
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Posted: 22 Oct 2010 at 8:12am |
OK before you do a major rebuild on wire. When i was at my dealer i saw lying on his desk a lite that was bad had a burnt switch so things may not need a rebuild. Hope not but with both lites bad it does sound like you better get the $.02 out.
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techntrek
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Posted: 21 Oct 2010 at 10:13pm |
I'll send you a postcard. Cheaper.  If you get too much noise, remember to try battery-only. I just checked and the charge voltages for AGM are the same as for flooded lead-acid, so you should be OK. A plus, AGMs have a very low self-discharge rate compared to flooded.
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Posted: 21 Oct 2010 at 7:27pm |
Originally posted by techntrek
At this point you have $.02 on the table, I have $.02 on the table, one of us will win $.04. Probably not me. |
I dunno..... my camper now and my old fiver didn't have curved walls like the Pod and the construction/material techniques may be different. I'd lean in your favor.
But, as Aris is going to need to take down the fixture to, at least, snip out the shorted wire regardless, it may be worth poking a finger around - just to see.
If you win, I'll send you $.02 upon receipt of a self addressed stamped envelope  .
This may be my last post for a few days...heading out tomorrow sometime and still have a ton to do beforehand. I've been checking in to take rest breaks. I ran the two 8ga. wires from the WFCO power supply/distribution panel, between the inner and outer floors and came up underneath a small compartment under one of the dinette seats. Going to try running my radio off of the WFCO - just for the halibut. Worked OK here, but it was not charging the battery. I don't know if the WFCO would work well charging AGM batteries??? I did find a second source of RF noise - the TV antenna amplifier (Winegard).
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techntrek
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Posted: 21 Oct 2010 at 6:30pm |
At this point you have $.02 on the table, I have $.02 on the table, one of us will win $.04. Probably not me.
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Posted: 21 Oct 2010 at 4:07pm |
Not trying to "one up ya" Tech. I don't know if this how the wires are run in the Pod. But, if one of you guys/gals want to go out to your Pod, remove the clear lenses on one of the lights, there will likely be 4-8 screws holding the fixture to the ceiling. When the fixture comes down there will probably be a hole there containing the wires. A quick probe with the index finger will tell if there is a channel or cavity there holding the wire run. It will take you 10 minutes tops to see. I'm kind of curious myself.
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techntrek
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Posted: 21 Oct 2010 at 2:50pm |
While I've never removed any light fixtures in the 'pod, my guess is this. With the aluminum-foam-aluminum sandwich that makes up the walls and ceiling, I would guess that the wires are run flush to the inside wall before the interior paneling is applied. I would be surprised if there are any channels which is why I was suggesting running a new line on the interior wall itself. But I could be wrong! Let us know what you find out, it will be useful to others.
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Posted: 21 Oct 2010 at 12:57pm |
Originally posted by Aris
Thank you all for the responses. I am taking your advice and fixing it myself.
Doug, we did meet last weekend @ Codorus. Thanks for responding.
Aris |
If you are willing to DIY it, I'll throw in my $.02.
If you remove the light fixtures between the shorted section, you may be able to use the "channels" that the factory used for the original wiring and fish thru a new section of wiring. The lights are usually wired in parallel. I recently did this to lenghten my component video cable running thru the ceiling (it shared a channel with the light wiring) and just this morning, fished two #8AWG wires thru the layers of my floor from one side of the camper to the other, using an existing channel that had 2 pieces of Romex and an RG6 cable in it. Note that sometimes there are 90 degree turns at the fixtures requiring removing the fixture at the 90, fishing to that point, and then fishing to the next. It sounds harder than it is. All you have to do is remove the screws from the fixtures and fish. When done, reinstall the fixtures. You won't be able to tell that anything has even been done, visually.
Caveat: I did no mods to my Pod, so I can't promise that it will work with the Pod. It has worked with more than one trailer that I have owned. I am also assuming that since you are familiar with a meter and testing that something like this would be within your abilities and you sort of know what I am talking about. Also, don't try to use the existing wire to pull thru the new wire, or you'll just get hung up on the same problem screw. Good luck!
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