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Topic ClosedSealing/caulking awning and spoiler

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lgblau View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Sealing/caulking awning and spoiler
    Posted: 07 Apr 2018 at 11:39am
Leo, You are definately in the minority.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 2018 at 8:53am
I have used Jasco Green Odorless Mineral Spirits to remove excess lap sealant followed by denatured alcohol to do the final surface preparation. That has worked well.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 10:36pm
Xylene is indeed an aggressive solvent.  I've used it on RV skins for years with no problem, as long as you don't let a dampened cloth sit on the surface.  Alcohol is often good, but not especially effective on caulks like silicone.  Naptha is also something that I use, for it is a common solvent for auto paint preparation.  After using the Xylene for cleaning the surface, perhaps I should hav e finished up with alcohol.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 4:50pm
We have not experienced screws pulling out. However, when the sun beats down on the black plastic, it can soften. That exacerbates the buckling between the screws. It does not appear that there is enough force to loosen them. Expansion and contraction of a metal spoiler would also have issues though perhaps not the same as those of the plastic spoiler.

As for cleaning with xylene, it is a rather aggressive solvent. It is not one I would use on my R-Pod. It is always best to see what the manufacturer of the product one wants to use recommends for surface preparation. Denatured alcohol is what Dicor recommends. If Eternabond also recommends it, then that is what I would use.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 4:23pm
Here is my two cents worth. If podders with white spoilers have a problem just think about the podders that have a black spoiler, I bet you can fry an egg on the spoiler when the sun beats on it. With that being sad something has to give, it wouldn't surprise me that there is enough force from buckling that might even pull some of the screws out of the skin.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 2:42pm
GlueGuy, the spoiler is made of soft flexible plastic, probably some kind of vinyl with a flex additive and it's isn't likely that fiberglass would stick well.  Another option would be to use the old spoiler as the template for a mold and recast a new spoiler made of fiberglass, but that's a lot of work if you don't have a workshop set up for fiberglass.

Tibof, I note that you used xylene as your cleaning agent.  It may leave enough of a residue that it doesn't work well with the adhesive in the Eternabond tape glue.  You may want to try cleaning the surface where the tape would be attached with denatured alcohol to get better adhesion.  The Eternabond site [https://www.eternabond.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/eb_hvac_tips_install.pdf] gives instructions on the installation.  They claim that the product maintains flexibility between - 70º F and >200º F, so cold temperatures shouldn't cause it to crack and come lose.  Take a look at their web site for more product information.  They suggest several solvents, but xylene wasn't among them.  

In the end, FR should have designed a more rigid spoiler made of fiberglass with a base wide enough to accept caulk or some kind of sealing tape or attached to the roof with fiberglass to become an integral part of the roof.  Or make one of metal like the really cool one marwayne made, but they didn't and we can either fix what they supplied as best we can or pay a fabricator to make one of fiberglass or metal if it can't be made in a home shop.  But, given the trailer choices out there in the price range of the Pod, no one is really any better and they all have their design and construction defects that have to be fixed.  

For me, the Eternabond tape solution has been an inexpensive, effective, easy, and trouble free remedy for someone else's mistake.  It's all part of the ongoing process of tweaking a low cost, practical, and basically well designed trailer to make it a little better and more reliable. 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 2:20pm
The spoiler appears to be made of either ABS or polypropylene plastic. While it is rigid, it is not stiff enough to pull down evenly and over time as the foam wants to expand, it pushes the plastic up between screws where mechanical force is holding it down. That is what appears to be causing the issue.

Edit: If the wires are adequately sealed and if there is a gap at the lower, back edge to let water out, then a gap at the leading edge is not a big deal. The water will simply run out through the back end. If, however, the wires were not adequately sealed and the back end is sealed tight but the front isn't, then it would cause problems as water accumulates underneath with no place to go but through the unsealed hole.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 1:52pm
Another thought I had was that you might be able to "fix" the spoiler? I don't know what the spoiler is made of; it looks like plastic, but I don't know what kind. I've worked with fiberglass and epoxy, and polyester resins. I think you might be able to reinforce/thicken the leading edge of the spoiler with an inch-wide strip of fiberglass. Maybe only one or two layers. This would make it much less likely to warp when screwed down. Maybe more work than it's worth, but I am sometimes known for my propensity for fix overkill.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 1:48pm
I'm far from baffled. Having the front end bowing up between screws is not a big deal for me. However, I also don't like gaps in the sealant on the leading edge so sealing it, whether by sealant, some sort of bar to spread the force of the screws to include between them, or by something like Eternabond tape is viable. On your new spoiler, you will find that the foam is going to force the spaces between the screws up and you will eventually end up with the same issue. The plastic of the spoiler is not stiff enough to prevent that, even on the new style spoiler that is straight and not curved at the top. Marwayne's solution is the only one that will give you one that won't eventually have the gaps between the screws.
StephenH
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 2018 at 1:10pm
Thanks Glue —  that's reasonable.  And after pulling the spoiler and cleaning everything up, that is about what I had intended to do.  Definitely plan to use stainless screws and caulk wiring holes as well as screw hole points in the filon. As for the Eternabond tape (which I have successfully used in other applications), I currently have that on the leading edge and the sides, but in the cold it seems not to have held very well despite the surface having been cleaned with Xylene. But I will likely also caulk the leading edge and sides with either Dicor or Proflex.  My problem is a badly warped spoiler, so I have a new one on order.  They come with some sort of adhesive tape already on them.  We'll see.  I understand your point about no concern for water under the spoiler once the wiring holes and screw holes are caulked, but I don't share your confidence.  I believe the spoiler moves and pulls on the screws, and FR says the entire thing should be caulked.  Weep outlets on the back side, however, may make sense. 
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