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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Posts: 2706 		Direct Link To This Post Topic: Solar Questions
    Posted: 13 Jun 2017 at 1:42pm
Most panels these days use MC4 connectors. However, you need the controller in between the panels and the batteries.

What I would be inclined to do is use MC4 to get to the R-pod. What you use on the side of the R-pod would be optional, but if there is such a thing as a panel-mount for MC4, that would be a nice option.

I would then place the MPPT controller as close to the batteries/converter as possible. I'm guessing there is enough space behind the converter to make that a logical place, but that is a SWAG.

Some of our remote solar sites use as many as 5 37-volt panels. We run them in series, which produces ~~ 185 volts. Even in really crappy solar conditions (like heavy overcast), we can get > 60 volts out of this setup. Our solar sites are mostly 48 volt battery systems, and the MPPT controller converts from whatever voltage is coming out of the panels into what the batteries need.

I love MPPT controllers.
bp
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Cfesko View Drop Down
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Posts: 1 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2017 at 1:18pm
but did you use the MC4 connector next to the door or straight line it to the battery with clips?? 
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Rustler View Drop Down
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Posts: 100 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jun 2017 at 2:17am
Originally posted by GlueGuy

Originally posted by geewizard

My opinion is that a MPPT solar controller wrings out every bit of solar panel output far more efficiently than a PWM solar controller.  And so, it's even more critical to use one with smaller solar panels.  As is using the largest gauge wire between the solar panel and battery.  Every little bit helps when you're beginning with little bits anyway.
The other advantage to an MPPT controller is that you can run the "solar part" of the system at a much higher voltage. This means that in low sun conditions, the panels can actually provide juice to the batteries when a pure PWM system might be able to actually charge.

For example, our 150W panel is designed to be used with a 24V system, so it's output is in the 30-37 volt range. You could not use it with a PWM controller for a 12V battery system. However, the MPPT controller is quite happy with 37 volts input (and even higher), and putting out charging voltages for a 12V battery. In low light conditions, it could actually charge a 12V battery where a PWM system would still be waiting for some more sun.

I completely agree with your thoughts. I didn't realize the added benefit of useable solar output in low or weak Sun conditions. Seems like most people are scared off from using the higher voltage panels, not knowing the MPPT controller does the voltage conversion to charge a 12-volt battery. The higher voltage means much less power loss in lengthy wiring. As was mentioned, using the largest gauge and shortest wire is of great benefit. 

My implementation of using a couple of 36-volt panels to power my RPod 171 is described in this post:


While the MPPT controllers are more expensive than PWM controllers, the extra cost more than pays for itself over the years. It's like getting a more powerful solar panel for the size and cost of a smaller one.
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Tars Tarkas View Drop Down
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Posts: 1454 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2017 at 6:44pm
The furnace fan and electronics run on 12v, so if you mean solar will maintain the battery well enough to use the furnace, that's probably correct.  A lot would depend on sunlight, outside temps, and how warm you want to keep it inside.

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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Posts: 2706 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2017 at 12:00pm
+1. Remember most solar systems you might use for an R-pod are going to be in the 100-200 watt category. That is pretty much what it takes to charge your batteries over a few hours. If your batteries are full, then all of that power is available for other uses. However it's still only 100-200 watts. Not enough to run the microwave. Not enough to run the AC. Probably enough to run the furnace.
bp
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Posts: 6128 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2017 at 11:28am
Originally posted by djensen

If I were to install and use a solar system, will my electrical outlets be available for use?


Depends on the install and how much money you care to spend. Anything is possible with enough $$$$. But in general, no.

A "solar system" in the way we are talking about them here, is for charging the batteries. Them only thing you give up going off grid is the a/c and microwave. Every other system in the pod can, or does, run on 12v or propane.
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djensen View Drop Down
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Posts: 4 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2017 at 10:39am
If I were to install and use a solar system, will my electrical outlets be available for use?
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geewizard View Drop Down
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Posts: 347 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2017 at 9:05am
My Renogy 100W panel is taking care of all our power needs and puts out over 19VDC in direct sun.  We run the fridge on propane and use a Wave 3 catalytic heater. So far, we've had no need to use a generator.

I just recently made another 25' cable for the solar panel using this wire and Anderson connectors with boots on each end: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IK4P6WU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did this because I was chasing sunlight in a camping spot with tall trees and couldn't put the solar panel in the "steady" sunlight spot.
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Rustler View Drop Down
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Posts: 100 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jun 2017 at 1:44am
Originally posted by GlueGuy

I'm very familiar with DC solar systems. I have been building my own for remote communications facilities for over a decade. 

I presume the zamp connector on an R-pod is connected directly to the battery (or batteries) with probably a fuse in between? If that's the case, then any external solar controller would probably work fine.

I've got a few spare solar panels laying around, and they are all nominally 24V panels (they actually put out between 30 and 37 volts, depending on manufacturer and load, etc).

My intention is to use one of my 150 watt panels, and connect it through a small MPPT controller set for a 12V system.

 
I highly recommend using a higher voltage panel like you describe. One advantage is that with the MPPT controller the power lost in long wire runs is much less. Just place the controller near the battery and use the higher voltage for long wire runs between the panel and the camper. This gives the option of placing the panel at some distance from the camper out of the shade. I have used a 36-volt, 185 watt panel with up to a 75 foot 10-gauge cable. 

My writeup on my solar power system is at this link:


I've also used a nice 120-watt panel which runs at around 34 volts at max. power point. I can also use both panels in parallel (305 watts) with the same Morningstar Sunsaver MMPT-15L controller. The power is limited to 200 watts (15 amps) by the controller without damage to anything. In the early and late parts of the day the output would be increased (up to the 200 watt limit), as it would on cloudy days. But I'm hoping that for dry camping, the 120 watt panel would suffice.

Let us know how your solar power system works.
Russ
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GlueGuy View Drop Down
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Posts: 2706 		Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 May 2017 at 10:31am
Originally posted by geewizard

My opinion is that a MPPT solar controller wrings out every bit of solar panel output far more efficiently than a PWM solar controller.  And so, it's even more critical to use one with smaller solar panels.  As is using the largest gauge wire between the solar panel and battery.  Every little bit helps when you're beginning with little bits anyway.
The other advantage to an MPPT controller is that you can run the "solar part" of the system at a much higher voltage. This means that in low sun conditions, the panels can actually provide juice to the batteries when a pure PWM system might be able to actually charge.

For example, our 150W panel is designed to be used with a 24V system, so it's output is in the 30-37 volt range. You could not use it with a PWM controller for a 12V battery system. However, the MPPT controller is quite happy with 37 volts input (and even higher), and putting out charging voltages for a 12V battery. In low light conditions, it could actually charge a 12V battery where a PWM system would still be waiting for some more sun.
bp
2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River
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