Did you get an inverter too? 

I presume the zamp connector on an R-pod is connected directly to the battery (or batteries) with probably a fuse in between? If that's the case, then any external solar controller would probably work fine.

I've got a few spare solar panels laying around, and they are all nominally 24V panels (they actually put out between 30 and 37 volts, depending on manufacturer and load, etc).

My intention is to use one of my 150 watt panels, and connect it through a small MPPT controller set for a 12V system.

Either is fine with me, I'm fair with electrical work. In the pod we are getting it has the camper friendly package; which apparently now a days that means it has a plug on the back and the wires that run to the battery. That's it. The dealer said, when I asked about the controller: "We don't have them anymore, but you can get them from other places pretty easily." 

I'm looking at the Renogy 200w (two 100w panels) with the Renogy wanderer controller. Will probably add in a fuse to that, and wondering if I should get an inverter too. I saw a really nice motor home setup in some of the Amazon reviews. But I'm a n00b when it comes to solar. Car wiring, I'll grumble but get it done.. Solar is new fangled stuff to me.  

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Solar-Starter-Wanderer/dp/B00BCRG22A/

When I looked at the wiring in the pod we are getting, it had an input plug on the outside, two wires that went in (prob about a foot long) and those connected to two other wires and were covered; I assume those are to go into the controller, no fuse. The other two wires went across the back of the trailer (behind the wood panel that covers the taillight wires), and ran around the side to the front, up to the batteries. Pretty simple setup. 

To be honest, I was kind of annoyed that they called this 'Solar Ready' and I was told by one of the sales guys that all I needed was the panels multiple times. Then to see how the wiring actually was, it was pretty irritating. Glad I found it before we brought it home though. 

Yes, that's a good deal.  Yes, I'd recommend a small inverter, something less than 300 watts.  The Pod does not have an inverter.  You can check out a detailed description with pix of my solar installation on the Facbook Page under the files section.  It's titled "How to--Installation-Solar Panels on Roof  https://lookaside.fbsbx.com/file/How%20To%20-%20Installation%20-%20Solar%20Panels%20on%20Roof.pdf?token=AWzdzpZ1ib3EczFsVk8yR1l162UH8FjBPO9JYLPI4ygtj3V8cFcmYNkvcuCtpOVvPRqhbf3pbYBuR-GPeFtZQH3GT8v9W6FvT_dw30BG4DZiGMuhVhpbwByJL9i7N_TUTjLcvLdOV8l7_J3wxVT9fqU9.

Thank you! 

That link did not work for me for some reason, but I am interested in seeing how you did your install. 

I believe the recommended is Zamp (I read for marketing purposes they write on the paperwork to only use Zamp panels). But quite honestly that's why I made this thread, because in looking at solar controllers and panels, the Zamp stuff is way overpriced for not as much power as other manufacturers that have better ratings. On the 2017s, they say it's "solar ready"; meaning (and I looked on the one we are buying) it has 4 wires and that's it. Two wires that come from the plug on the outside, and two that run to the front to the battery. It seems like a lot of podders run non-Zamp setups with great results. 

I was looking at the Renology panels and controller for our 2017. But I keep getting distracted by how nice the semi-flexible ones look. 

I like that connector you did, looks really nice. 

For example, our 150W panel is designed to be used with a 24V system, so it's output is in the 30-37 volt range. You could not use it with a PWM controller for a 12V battery system. However, the MPPT controller is quite happy with 37 volts input (and even higher), and putting out charging voltages for a 12V battery. In low light conditions, it could actually charge a 12V battery where a PWM system would still be waiting for some more sun.

 

Let us know how your solar power system works.

I completely agree with your thoughts. I didn't realize the added benefit of useable solar output in low or weak Sun conditions. Seems like most people are scared off from using the higher voltage panels, not knowing the MPPT controller does the voltage conversion to charge a 12-volt battery. The higher voltage means much less power loss in lengthy wiring. As was mentioned, using the largest gauge and shortest wire is of great benefit. 

My implementation of using a couple of 36-volt panels to power my RPod 171 is described in this post:

http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=10133&title=solar-power-system-for-rpod-171 - 36-volt panels powering RPod 171

While the MPPT controllers are more expensive than PWM controllers, the extra cost more than pays for itself over the years. It's like getting a more powerful solar panel for the size and cost of a smaller one.

What I would be inclined to do is use MC4 to get to the R-pod. What you use on the side of the R-pod would be optional, but if there is such a thing as a panel-mount for MC4, that would be a nice option.

I would then place the MPPT controller as close to the batteries/converter as possible. I'm guessing there is enough space behind the converter to make that a logical place, but that is a SWAG.

Some of our remote solar sites use as many as 5 37-volt panels. We run them in series, which produces ~~ 185 volts. Even in really crappy solar conditions (like heavy overcast), we can get > 60 volts out of this setup. Our solar sites are mostly 48 volt battery systems, and the MPPT controller converts from whatever voltage is coming out of the panels into what the batteries need.

I love MPPT controllers.