Winterization

Originally posted by techntrek  Don't put it in the tank, you will waste gallons of antifreeze when you only need 1 - 1 1/2. Thanks, Paul

[/QUOTE]

Originally posted by pgoelz I just winterized our 2014 171 for the first time (bought it used this spring) and I have a couple questions..... my only other winterization experience has been blowing out the very simple system in our old pop up.  That was one line.  The Rpod is more complex.   1.  I see reference here to low point drains..... I did not realize my 171 had them (and they are not in the manual).  I blew the system out thoroughly with compressed air and then filled it with RV antifreeze (pink from all taps and toilet).... can I assume opening the low point drains (if present) is not required?  You are probably ok, the little bit of water in the low-point drain hoses will mix with the antifreeze. 2.  I drained the fresh water tank (and the water heater is dry and bypassed with the anode out) but I forgot to run the pump to suck any water out of the intake hose before I sucked in the antifreeze.  Since the intake for the antifreeze is (I assume) in the fresh water intake line between the tank and the pump, can I assume that any remaining water in the line between the bypass valve and the tank itself has either drained out or is not an issue if it freezes?   Yes. I found the owner's manual to be VERY generic and it left lots of questions.  However, it does instruct winterization by pouring antifreeze in the fresh water tank, which I guess would take care of my concerns above?  I decided not to put antifreeze in the tank since I don't know how long the tank would have to be flushed in the spring to get rid of any remaining antifreeze.... and taste.   Don't put it in the tank, you will waste gallons of antifreeze when you only need 1 - 1 1/2. Thanks, Paul

I don't know. I'd have to do some research on that.

I did put antifreeze in my fresh water tank last year. I did a couple of flushes along with sanitizing with chlorine and then a flush with baking soda. I did not notice any residual taste when I got done. However, I have since made a hatch for easier access to the winterization valve/hose and will not repeat the antifreeze in the fresh water tank. I will drain the tank and then run the pump until all water is purged from the intake line. Then I will change it over and pump antifreeze through the pipes. It should simplify the sanitizing and flushing in the spring.

However, we do have one winter trip planned. I won't use antifreeze in the fresh water pipes until after that trip. I'll use air to blow out the lines since we will add water as we get to the southern portion of our trip.

With that small an amount of water, expansion while freezing should not be an issue. If the tank were full, then expansion would potentially burst the tank. It is like an ice cube tray. It works because the water can expand upward while it freezes. Likewise with the tank.

For the anode rod, look for Suburban part number 232767, which is the Suburban Magnesium Anode Rod. The magnesium is good for most purposes. With excessively corrosive water where the magnesium rod is consumed too quickly, the aluminum one can be used. Suburban's instructions on the package say that if the magnesium one lasts less than a year, use the aluminum one (part number 232768).