NCVT

Here's my video on the Fluke VoltAlert 1AC-A II that I typically use for hot-skin testing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obeh9m4OMv4

Basically, any NCVT that has a 90 to 600 or 1,000 volt range should work. Every one of these that I've tested will beep when held next to a large surface (your RV) somewhere around 40 volts. For instance, I also use a Klein NCVT-1 a lot which is rated for 90 volts when testing something small like a wire, but will beep at 40 volts when held close to a large surface. Klein also makes an NCVT-2 dual-range tester that will find wires below 24 volts, and these will find an RV hot-skin around 20 volts. But they're a little too complicated for the casual user. I also have a few variable sensitivity NCVT's from other manufacturers, but they need to be calibrated against a known-voltage every time you use it. I don't think that anyone (not even me) wants to go through that procedure. Far better to get something that's factory calibrated to a known sensitivity.

Also, even though I use them I'm not a big fan of "Always On" testers. That's because you don't know if the battery has died while the tester is in your glove compartment. I really like something with an indicator light that lets you know that the battery is good and that it's turned on. And you really should double check that ANY NCVT is operating properly by poking it at a known AC power source before you rely on it to test an RV for hot-skin voltage. There will be an occasional operational failure in any electronic device, and you don't want a false negative to lull you into a sense of security.

Finally, I don't consider an NCVT to be the first or only test you do on campground power. You really should meter any new outlet you're going to plug into to check for correct voltage and H-N polarity. If anything looks goofy, do not proceed to plug in your RV. And I would certainly advise everyone to consider purchasing a good EMS (Electrical Management System) to help protect their RV investment. The combination of a Progressive Industries EMS with relay disconnect and a Fluke VoltAlert is what I consider to be the Gold Standard in consumer RV power testing.

Mike Sokol

Originally posted by Marx No energy management, that has been on the list of items to get.  After this experience it just moved up a lot higher.

Before you purchase any sort of Surge Protector or Electrical Management System (EMS) read the article I wrote comparing the two technologies at http://www.noshockzone.org/rv-electrical-safety-surge-strips/

The better units, such as the EMS series from Progressive Industries, will not only protect you from an open ground, they'll also shut down the incoming AC power if you accidentally plug into a TT-30 outlet miswired with 240-volts. An inexpensive MOV surge protector won't shut down the AC power if the pedestal has an open ground, nor will it protect your RV electrical system from plugging into a TT-30 miswired with 240-volts.

Please note that none of the Electrical Management Systems or MOV Surge Protectors will detect an open ground due to a loose or corroded connection in your RV's power panel. It's up to you to do periodic maintenance and testing of the wiring INSIDE your own RV to assure the safety ground is properly connected. Do note that a NCVT (Non Contact Voltage Tester) will indeed find a hot-skin condition no matter what the cause. Here's my article on how to check an RV for a hot skin condition with a volt meter or Non Contac Voltage Tester. http://www.noshockzone.org/rv-electrical-safety-part-iv-%E2%80%93-hot-skin/

I'm Mike Sokol from the No~Shock~Zone, the developer of using a Non Contact Tester for RV Hot-Skin testing. Thanks for posting your story here, and thanks to techntrek for getting the original thread started.  If you haven't done it already, all of you should take a look at this video where I intentionally hot-skin electrify a 40-ft RV with up to 120 volts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8h64X33aKg

You can actually guesstimate how much hot skin voltage there is on a large surface by how far away it makes your NCVT beep. Usually around 80 or 90 volts will trigger a VoltAlert a foot away.

Now depending on if this was a low-current or high-current leakage, it may or may not have been immediately deadly. However, ANY significant voltage on the skin/chassis of your RV signifies that your safety ground has been compromised and your RV could electrocute you at any time. You did the right thing and took this warning seriously. Let's stay safe out there...

Mike Sokol

Since the NCVT lit up, I'm guessing no surge protector/energy management device?

Non Contact Voltage Tester? What was the issue? Did you have to relocate?