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Topic Closed12V outlets wanted

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waterflaws View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: 12V outlets wanted
    Posted: 07 Oct 2013 at 5:36pm
We boondocked one night this weekend. Monitor said we used less than 25% of 2x deep cycle batteries.  32ยบ low temp.  We ran 2x C PAPs all night, on their 12V plugs via a splitter via direct extension cord to battery (NO humidifiers).  Brewed 2 cups coffee in 12V drip maker (slow and plug got VERY hot - not recommended).  Ran some lights for several hours.  Ran the heater a couple times.
 
We were pleasantly surprised!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 2013 at 3:33pm
I checked mine this morning and with the humidifier it was using 0.70amps.  Surprised me.  Just an update.

Terry
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2013 at 12:53pm
As I said, my CPAP is old, going back to 2000.  I lost weight several years ago and was able to put in into mothballs. I am sure the newer CPAP W/humidifiers have been improved, but I was not aware that they are now separate units.  Thanks for the updated information.

Bob
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Oct 2013 at 10:36am
Originally posted by Sleepless

Originally posted by TerryM

Been gone for awhile.  My CPAP runs on 12DC supplied by the little gray inline box.  It changes 120v AC to 12DC.  The box says 12v @5.0 amps.

The CPAP says 12v @ 5.0 amps.  Interesting!  The humidifier doesn't say anything about power consumption!
Terry


Terry, my CPAP is old, and runs only on 120VAC.  The humidifier is built into my CPAP and is always enabled, even if I don't have the container of distilled water mounted on it.  I bet yours is the same and the 5.0 amp draw includes the humidifier power requirement.

Bob
Not necessarily ... mine are separate components and each has it's own power rating listed on it.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep 2013 at 5:38pm
As my husband says he is "a mechanical idiot."  So we had the dealer install two 12v outlets.  They put one above the bed tapping into the entertain center.  The other was placed Blythe front door, since the fuse/breaker box is there.  
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep 2013 at 4:57pm
Originally posted by TerryM

Been gone for awhile.  My CPAP runs on 12DC supplied by the little gray inline box.  It changes 120v AC to 12DC.  The box says 12v @5.0 amps.

The CPAP says 12v @ 5.0 amps.  Interesting!  The humidifier doesn't say anything about power consumption!
Terry


Terry, my CPAP is old, and runs only on 120VAC.  The humidifier is built into my CPAP and is always enabled, even if I don't have the container of distilled water mounted on it.  I bet yours is the same and the 5.0 amp draw includes the humidifier power requirement.

Bob
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep 2013 at 3:52pm
Originally posted by Jdub

Terry, just how do you tap into those lines for the 12v? Red goes to what??? Black to ????

After a recent extended trip I realized how nice it would be to have 12v outlets in the pod...the 178 doesn't have any. 


The female 12v part that I used had a red and black wire on it.  So that wasn't a problem.  One thing to note:  If you have the same unit as I do, it doesn't matter how the 120v wires go into the inline box.  You can unplug the 110v input wire and reverse it, plug it in and it works fine.

My CPAP is a Philips Respironics, REMstar Auto, A-Flex.

Terry

EDIT: I do have 2 12v batteries
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Sep 2013 at 3:45pm
Been gone for awhile.  My CPAP runs on 12DC supplied by the little gray inline box.  It changes 120v AC to 12DC.  The box says 12v @5.0 amps.

The CPAP says 12v @ 5.0 amps.  Interesting!  The humidifier doesn't say anything about power consumption!

When I'm at a campground I use the humidifier.  Out in the boonies I don't, but I'm never out for more than a couple of days.

Terry
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep 2013 at 1:34pm
I do love playing with my kill-a-watt...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep 2013 at 1:14pm
I wouldn't even rely on the VA calculation - get a Kill-A-Watt for $25 and measure the actual use.  Bbattery operation with the heater may be impossible.  Resistive heating is always a large load, and may be too much even for one night.  20 watts (which must be w/o heater) is 1.67 amps at 12 volts, which is very doable.  9 hours would be 15 amps or about 3 nights from your typical deep cycle battery (to stay above 50%) IF no other loads in the camper were run from that battery.  Adding in LPG detector, brains of the fridge, some lighting and water pump usage and I would fully recharge after 2 nights.  Yes, cold weather does reduce the available amps.
Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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