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Topic ClosedStabilizing the Stabilizer?

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Bill-GA View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Stabilizing the Stabilizer?
    Posted: 21 May 2012 at 10:23pm
Originally posted by Keith-N-Dar

If you don't already have them get a set of Lynx Levelers, the Legos that we talk about and use them to level your trailer side to side, use the tongue jack to level it back to front, and use the stabilizers to stabilize.

Yes Yes Yes! I have a set of the Lego style levelers for the wheels and even a plastic cone for the tongue jack.  I also have a new set of  four plastic pads (similar) to use on each of the stabilizers. I AM ready and good to go. Smile
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2012 at 8:20pm
If you don't already have them get a set of Lynx Levelers, the Legos that we talk about and use them to level your trailer side to side, use the tongue jack to level it back to front, and use the stabilizers to stabilize.
Keith-N-Dar
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2012 at 7:44pm
Thanks all for your comments.  Here's what I think I've figured out.  The old-style "Y" stabilizers are OK as front-to-back forces are well absorbed because the "Y"  runs parralel to the frame. However, side-to-side forces can potentially cause the "Y" style to fail/bend as in the bent one I had to replace (and another that's slightly bent). So I agree with the "one to two turns ONLY" rule when the pads hit the ground.  My bent stabs may have been caused by prev owner cranking stabs too high.

Bottom line, I'll live with the stabs as they are with 'some' wobble ... using the 2 crank rule - and hoping all my sites are fairly level.
Bill & Bev
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2010 RP-176T (tent & slide-out)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2012 at 9:40pm
 
Originally posted by FISHTAIL

That's interesting.  I use mine to level the camper all the time and I've never had an issue.

As a rule with any camper, never use them to level.  First level side to side with something under the wheels while still hooked up, then level front to back with the tongue jack after unhooking.  The stabilizers should touch the ground then one or two turns max.

Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2012 at 11:15am
I've noticed it depends on where we're at.  I find that the bounce is noticeable on gravel and less so on a solid ground surface or on concrete.  
Adventures with ¡Podtástic!--Life in a Forest River RPod 182G with Tim and Louis and our two cats, Desi and Lucy. Check our website at http://podtastic.info for information on our journeys.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2012 at 10:32am
I have a set of screw jacks that I sometime put midline on the frame (about center around the axle) to take some of the bounce out. 



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2012 at 9:55am
We do a bit of final leveling with the jacks. We have 4 scissor jacks. Use the blocks to get it close side-to-side, then the tongue jack to get it level front-to-rear.. and then final left/right with the jacks, never have to do much "lifting". By the time we have it to that point, it's plenty stable enough for us. I am 6' and 210lbs.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2012 at 9:10am
That's interesting.  I use mine to level the camper all the time and I've never had an issue.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2012 at 10:49pm
I use a battery drill and run the pads down on the ground.  That is it.  The dealer made a point of telling me several times not to use the jacks as anything other than stabilizers.  He said it was possible to rack the chassis to the point where I would not be able to open the door.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2012 at 9:58pm

Since our pod didn't come with the front stabs, I've been using jack stands up front and the stabs in the back.  Makes the platform rock solid.

Bill, as far as I know they are one and the same.

Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ Pod instruction manual
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