Water Pump

Best thing to do is to mount it on top of a thick mouse pad.  Screw the pad to the floor, then screw the pump on top.

I recommend that all hand-tightened pipe connections be checked on new Pods.  I had a factory connection fall apart on the third trip.  It had been tightened only onto the first thread and finally worked itself apart.  Luckily, it was while I was installing sound-deadening material under the water pump.  The two pieces just fell apart...I was able to easily hand tighten them securely.

I had winterized my camper in Dec and used that valve to fill anti-freeze into lines.  Yesterday, when the water didn't pump, that was the first thing I checked. The open end of that hose was dry and I verified that the anti-freeze fill valve handle ran parallel to the main hoses.

Techntrek is right, that valve is opened when you want to pull rv antifreeze into the system for winterization. if the valve is open, or partially open the pump will take the easy way out and pull air in instead of water from your tank, its easier to pump air than water. your on the right track, be sure hot water heater is full before turning on electric heater element. gas wont hurt short term if empty but if tank is empty and you flip on electric element, zap element gone.

I getting ready to go out next week - site only has electric I think.  I filled the water tank, made sure all the heater valves were correct, attached the water hose, looked for leaks ... All looked well ... Some sputtering when I turned the hot/cold on at the sink, same for toilet ... Then they all ran solid stream.  I turned off the water supply, turned on the water pump ... I hear it running. Sink ran solid for a second, then started to sputter and gurgle  both hot & cold at the sink.  Toilet runs solid, pump stays on and sink continues to sputter!  I've done this about 6 times ! It's almost like there's an air bubble that won't let the pump do it's job to the sink?