new R-Pod owner

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   Brent S, its great that you are an electrician, you already know all about faults, ampacities, overcurrent protection, and conductor voltage drops. As an electrician you are already no doubt very familiar with the NEC. Take a look at Article 690 sometime, that's the article on solar PV. I actually helped write that article back in the day. 
Really there is no major difference in most of the requirements for DC and solar and conventional AC circuit design, except for two things. In solar you have to be thinking about current sources coming from both directions. And in solar the current from a shorted solar array is only about 10% greater than its normal operating current on a summer day. So, solar generally can't produce the current needed to clear a breaker or fuse in the event of a fault. Batteries of course can. 

The other thing is like any other 12V circuit, voltage drop is much more likely to drive what size conductors you use than ampacity. So for example your 100 watt module will not put out much more than 6A so a 10A fuse will do, but if you're going to want to place your module out in the sunshine say 50 feet from your trailer you will need probably 10 AWG conductors to keep the voltage drop down to something reasonable. Many people find it easiest to buy a heavy duty extension cord and cut the ends off to do this. 

Not sure what you mean by lifting your jacks but for sure crank them all the way up when you're towing. I've never bottomed out on mine. 

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offgrid Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290	Topic: new R-Pod owner Posted: 26 Sep 2018 at 10:25am
	Brent S, its great that you are an electrician, you already know all about faults, ampacities, overcurrent protection, and conductor voltage drops. As an electrician you are already no doubt very familiar with the NEC. Take a look at Article 690 sometime, that's the article on solar PV. I actually helped write that article back in the day. Really there is no major difference in most of the requirements for DC and solar and conventional AC circuit design, except for two things. In solar you have to be thinking about current sources coming from both directions. And in solar the current from a shorted solar array is only about 10% greater than its normal operating current on a summer day. So, solar generally can't produce the current needed to clear a breaker or fuse in the event of a fault. Batteries of course can. The other thing is like any other 12V circuit, voltage drop is much more likely to drive what size conductors you use than ampacity. So for example your 100 watt module will not put out much more than 6A so a 10A fuse will do, but if you're going to want to place your module out in the sunshine say 50 feet from your trailer you will need probably 10 AWG conductors to keep the voltage drop down to something reasonable. Many people find it easiest to buy a heavy duty extension cord and cut the ends off to do this. Not sure what you mean by lifting your jacks but for sure crank them all the way up when you're towing. I've never bottomed out on mine.
	1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold

Brent S Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 25 Sep 2018 Location: SE USA Online Status: Offline Posts: 21	Posted: 26 Sep 2018 at 9:55am
	Thanks. After I posted I went out and saw the battery indicator on the wall by the door. I also tested the outside lights and have brake and turn, but no running lights. One more thing to work on before taking it out. Good idea on the fuse in the line. I’m an electrician so would probably have done that anyways, but I’m the first to admit that I don’t know DC or solar systems well. I haven’t looked at the panel inside the camper yet, but like the idea of installing a coupler outside at the batteries. Once I weld a new battery mount, to handle two batteries, I will post some pictures of what I did for it and the solar connector. I’ll look around for a Manuel but don’t believe I got one. Will also check their website, thanks. I noticed the jacks are pretty low on this trailer. I wonder if anyone has ever lifted theirs to avoid hitting them on bumps while going down the road?

offgrid Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 23 Jul 2018 Online Status: Offline Posts: 5290	Posted: 26 Sep 2018 at 6:54am
	Brent S, you can connect your solar charge controller output directly to the batteries if you want, no problem with backfeed. The solar input connection on the rRods is just a connection to the battery anyway. so its the same thing, just adds a longer wire run so more voltage loss. It would be a good idea to connect it through an inline fuse in case you ever get a short in the line to the solar module/controller. Batteries put out a lot of current into to short, solar modules don't, so the fuse should go at the battery end. There is a battery indicator, should be the lowest button on your indicator panel, just below the ones for the water tanks. Not really very accurate but it gives you some idea. You should have gotten a basic manual with the rPod. Forest River has those online as well. If you're looking for a full blown manual with things like actual schematics, there aren't any AFAIK. I don't think anyone on this forum has ever found anything like that but if they have I'm sure we'll hear suggestions later on today.
	1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold

Brent S Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 25 Sep 2018 Location: SE USA Online Status: Offline Posts: 21	Posted: 26 Sep 2018 at 5:15am
	I got a 100w panel with a control/charger yesterday. I would appreciate input on how you connected yours. I normally would connect straight to the batteries, but don’t know if that would backfeed and hurt anything in the camper. Also, dosent the camper have a battery charge indicator? I still need to familiarize myself with the controls in it. My last camper was a good bit older with no electronics. On another note, can I get a pdf manuel for my model somewhere? Or a hard copy? Thanks

Brent S Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 25 Sep 2018 Location: SE USA Online Status: Offline Posts: 21	Posted: 26 Sep 2018 at 5:05am
	I got a 2012 R177 a couple weeks ago. It’s been so hot that camping didn’t even sound fun yet but the weather is starting to change finally! Looking forwards to hearing about others opinions about their units. (Probably should have done this before buying mine).... I just bought two new AGM batteries and a spare gas tank for it. I have to make a new rack for the batteries and install the double gas rack for the tanks before going out still, but the unit seems to be in good shape otherwise. Great design on these things. I haven’t had a camper for 15 yrs or so and am looking forwards to traveling around the area soon on 4 day weekends. I’m near Asheville N C and the Smokey Mtn Nat Park, so plenty of places to see here

Leo B Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List podders Helping podders - pHp Joined: 13 Jan 2012 Location: Lyndonville, VT Online Status: Offline Posts: 4517	Posted: 25 Sep 2018 at 5:40pm
	Welcome to the group!! Congrats on you 179
	Leo & Melissa Bachand 2017 Ford F150 2021 Vista Cruiser 19 csk Previously owned 2015 Rpod 179 2010 Rpod 171

Live2Camp Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 17 Apr 2017 Location: No. California Online Status: Offline Posts: 240	Posted: 24 Sep 2018 at 4:12pm
	Welcome! Let us know how your shakedown trip goes...betting you'll have a great time.
	2017 R-Pod 179 HRE (the green one) His:Ford F150 double cab 4WD; Hers/mine:Tacoma V6 double cab 4WD Still love rugged, diggin' comfy too

crw8sr Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 12 Oct 2017 Location: Omaha Nebraska Online Status: Offline Posts: 328	Posted: 24 Sep 2018 at 3:42pm
	Welcome!
	Chuck & Lyn Izzy, Morkie. RIP Zoe Joy & Gracie, Yorkie 2018 R Pod 190 2019 Traverse In moments of adversity;when life's a total wreck, I think of those worse off than me and really feel like heck.

sailingskip Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: 23 Sep 2018 Location: CO Online Status: Offline Posts: 5	Posted: 24 Sep 2018 at 12:14pm
	Thanks for the tip.
	2016 R-Pod 179 Hood River 2006 Ford F-150

GlueGuy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Senior Member Joined: 15 May 2017 Location: N. California Online Status: Offline Posts: 2660	Posted: 24 Sep 2018 at 10:38am
	Our 179 is a (green) 2017, so is probably real similar to yours. The keder rail should be the 14mm size, and would normally accept the 13mm keder. However, FR used screws that are too large, and restrict the size of the keder by a couple millimeters. So we ordered 11mm keder from American Keder.
	bp 2017 R-Pod 179 Hood River 2015 Ford F150 SuperCrew 4WD 3.5L Ecoboost