Question about solar
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Topic: Question about solar
Posted By: billyingolden
Subject: Question about solar
Date Posted: 24 May 2022 at 4:08pm
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Hi everyone! We recently purchased a 2019 176 and have taken it out a couple times and love it so far, and we're planning to do some camping this summer in places without hookups, so we're trying to figure out a relatively lightweight and inexpensive way to do it. I found these 90W solar panels online, which have shown up positively in some reviews and seem both incredibly portable at about 7 lbs + only around $140 currently: https://www.amazon.com/ACOPOWER-Perfect-Compatible-LionCooler-Freezer/dp/B07TWDJ1QS/?th=1 I assume we'll need to get a charge controller to use with it and then just go from panels to controller to battery with alligator clips, and that it might be (?) just plug and play for relative solar and battery novices? We were looking at the Renogy 100W suitcase and it's currently on sale for around $200, but it's more than 20 lbs, which feels like a significant difference. Thank you!
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Replies:
Posted By: pedwards2932
Date Posted: 24 May 2022 at 4:17pm
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I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09RZP6X4D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 - Amazon.com: ECO-WORTHY 120W Foldable Solar Panel for Jackery Explorer/Flashfish/BALDR/Goal Zero Portable Generator Power Station, with 20A Charge Controller to Charge 12V Battery : Patio, Lawn & Garden Very portable has controller and everything you need. The stands for holding up the panels are a bit flimsy but so far it has worked great.
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Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 25 May 2022 at 3:57am
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That solar module has an ETFE (Tefzel) front surface. Tefzel is a polymer (plastic). That is what makes it light and flexible. But it also makes it susceptible to breakage, moisture intrusion, etc. The solar cells inside are easily broken and are moisture sensitive.
So if you absolutely must have the lightest thing and aren't concerned about long life, go ahead. Just don't expect it to last very long. But if you want a product that will last a long time then get one with a glass front and an aluminum frame. That is the well proven solar industry standard. Glass solar modules are designed to last 25-30 years or more, and many have been operating much longer than that. It will be heavier but it's not like you're carrying it around a lot. You'll set it up when you make camp and take it down when you leave. Also consider that you want to tilt the module so it faces south. You will need to tie or weight down the plastic front module or it will blow over in a light breeze. The glass one will stay up (but you'll still want to lay it flat if you're expecting higher winds). Yes, you will need a charge controller so you don't overcharge your battery(ies). You will see that there are two types, PWM and MPPT. Both types regulate how high the voltage on the battery can get. PWM stands for pulse width modulation which means that the controller is rapidly connecting and disconnecting the solar module from the battery to maintain the proper battery voltage. MPPT stands for max power point tracking which means that the controller is also independently varying the voltage the solar module sees in order to keep the module producing as much power as possible. For the controller to make that adjustment the solar module has to run at a higher operating voltage than the battery does. And MPPT controllers are more complex and expensive than PWM ones. So for a simple 100 watt or so solar system I recommend getting a PWM controller. The small amount of extra energy you'd get from an MPPT controller isn't really worth the extra cost and complexity. If you stick with a glass solar module not much can go wrong. There are a lot more problems with low quality charge controllers, like there are with any other cheap electronic item. So I recommend getting a good quality controller from a reputable company. My personal favorites are Morningstar and Victron (not saying that there aren't other good ones out there). ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |
Posted By: Pod People
Date Posted: 25 May 2022 at 7:05am
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We have had the Renogy suitcase 100w system for over 4 years. It works well, is well made and I can definitely recommend it. It is simple and effective Vann ------------- Vann & Laura 2015 RPod 179 https://postimg.cc/0zwKrfB9"> 
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Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 25 May 2022 at 8:53am
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+1 on the Renogy solar suitcase. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: billyingolden
Date Posted: 25 May 2022 at 1:22pm
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Thank you all so much, and especially for the detailed description of the components offgrid! It sounds like for the combination of quality, convenience, and longevity, the added weight of the Renogy solar suitcase is likely worth the tradeoff. We also have a small Jackery power station that we'll be able to use with the suitcase as well, so that's a nice bonus. |
Posted By: gpokluda
Date Posted: 26 May 2022 at 9:53am
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We scored a GoPower 130W suitcase kit from Craigslist. Works great but new they are pricey. We skip the whole solar plug drama and just clip to the battery bank. ------------- Gpokluda 2017 Rpod 179(sold 2023) 2022 Escape 5.0TA 2022 Ford F150 4X4 3.5EB Honda SCL500 |
Posted By: gpokluda
Date Posted: 26 May 2022 at 2:36pm
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Also might add that unless you have a sizable battery bank (which is possible on an Rpod with some effort and planning) and/or you are camping where you are certain of sunshine during your stay, you may need to supplement with a gas generator. On a recent trip, we were all but certain of warm sunshine and instead experienced 4 days of clouds and rain. Fortunately we never leave home without our portable solar kit and a 2000w gas generator. ------------- Gpokluda 2017 Rpod 179(sold 2023) 2022 Escape 5.0TA 2022 Ford F150 4X4 3.5EB Honda SCL500 |
Posted By: Colt
Date Posted: 30 May 2022 at 3:54pm
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I have the ECO-WORTHY kit shown above. It works nicely and is quite compact. I keep it in a medium garbage can for emergencies, with other electronics. ------------- John '16 R-Pod 180 |
Posted By: Gregs Pod
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2022 at 1:50pm
| Gpocluda.....What is this "solar plug drama"? I am having trouble with my GoPower 220 flex panels and GP30 UL controller that were installed using the prewire through roof connector. Never kicks above 1 charging amp and batts run down. Have replaced controller and wiring, each time tech touches the though roof connector they claim the amps go up but I haven't seen it. getting ready to test panel output gain bit it was fine last time I chekced. |
Posted By: JR
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2022 at 3:21pm
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I have a 2019 179 and when I purchased the trailer new it was advertised as being "solar ready" which meant that there was a wire supplied by Zamp installed at the factory from the outside of the rear of the trailer to the battery up front. If you were going to be using that wiring in your solar setup you had to purchase all Zamp equipment or insure that your solar setup was not wired with reverse polarity. This was do to the fact that Zamp solar was the company that was "in business" with Forest River advertising the solar ready program. I also believe that the Zamp controllers and panels are wired in reverse of the norm for the industry. That would be the reason that the Zamp pre wiring of the trailers is reverse of all the solar wiring I have come across. I have not worked with Go Power products but that might be the problem you are experiencing with your trailer, that is wired with reverse polarity. This seems unlikely because you indicated that there has been RV dealer techs working on this problem. It seems to me that the techs would have found the problem if the system was incorrectly wired. That is also my take on the "solar plug drama". Hope this helps. ------------- Jay 179/2019 |
Posted By: gpokluda
Date Posted: 28 Aug 2022 at 3:24pm
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@Gregs Pod. The Solar on the Side (SAE) plug is simply a couple wires run to the battery(s) and also have the polarity reversed. So instead of dealing with that, I chose to mount the Anderson style plug that came with the GoPower solar kit directly to the batteries for easy connect/disconnect. Note that I mounted directly to the batteries so I can still keep the batteries charging by solar but bet able to cut off power to the RV through a cutoff switch. Sorry, I can't help with the rooftop solar issue, you are having, but to me it sounds like a loose connection, broken wire or something like that. I will say, that GoPower seems to overestimate the output of their panels. Mine are rated at 10amp but I have never seen above 8amp come off the kit. ------------- Gpokluda 2017 Rpod 179(sold 2023) 2022 Escape 5.0TA 2022 Ford F150 4X4 3.5EB Honda SCL500 |
Posted By: steveterrynpoppy
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2022 at 6:10pm
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Our 2021 171 came with a charge controller, port on the roof, and inverter. No roof solar panel. Charge controller is 10 amp...so if I understand correctly...provides for up to 150 watts from solar. I am a newbie to solar and electric overall. But as I understand it, I'm not going to get AC outlets with what i have now. Which is fine...I am looking to optimize my offgrid time w just our 12v functions (lights, water pump). It seems I can install one 100 watt solar panel on the roof, where the port is. The trailer comes set up for this so maybe it makes sense? Is it silly to just bypass this factory set up? Or I can go portable, which(I think) is my preference. No drilling in my roof, can move it around for sun, and more easily replaceable when the time comes. The one recommended here (Renergy) seems almost cheaper than installing a panel on the roof. So if 100 watts is sufficient, looking for opinions on portable v roof. Also, if I go portable, do I still need to connect through the factory installed controller...or will kits generally come w a controller? Thanks. Thinking I should change my name to ontherpodlearningcurve. :-)
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Posted By: Ben Herman
Date Posted: 13 Sep 2022 at 8:21pm
| I use the Renogy suitcase and the Zamp plug - just reverse the wires that you connect to it. I added about 15 ft of 12 gauge wire to mine so that I can move the suitcase into the sun. 5+ years of use, no problems at all. |
Posted By: steveterrynpoppy
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2022 at 5:46am
| Thanks Ben...our plug is on the roof. Doesnt seem practical to run from there? |
Posted By: StephenH
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2022 at 7:08am
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Make yourself a short wiring harness. On the battery end, put connecting rings to go on the battery terminals. On the other end, use https://www.andersonpower.com/us/en/resources/PowerPoleResourcesPage.html - Anderson PowerPole connectors . The solar connectors need a tool to connect/disconnect. PowerPole connectors are better suited for something that will be plugged in and unplugged multiple times. There are less expensive versions available on Amazon. You can also get weatherproof covers for them. Then you would not need to climb up on the roof to connect/disconnect your solar panel(s). I'm pretty sure the thought was that the owner would permanently mount solar panels up there. As has been stated previously, having panels at ground level where you can put them in the sun if you are parked in the shade is a good idea. However, if you regularly park in the sun, then rooftop solar is more convenient, being permanently mounted. It is also a bit more secure if you need to leave the site and still want to charge via solar. ------------- StephenH Happy is the man that findeth wisdom,... http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7712 - ouR escaPOD mods Former RPod 179 Current Cherokee Grey Wolf 24 JS |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 14 Sep 2022 at 12:34pm
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Don't go over about 100 watts with a 10 amp rated charge controller.
Your charge controller is already installed inside the trailer and connected to the roof? If so then you will need to relocate it if you connect a portable solar module and charge controller to the battery, or buy another one. Don't connect directly to the battery, you need to install a fuse inline in the positive connection between the controller and the battery, as close to the battery as possible. There is plenty of current available from your battery to start a fire if your wires to the portable solar system ever ever get shorted out. You wouldn't install a circuit in your house without running it through a fuse or breaker would you?This is no different. Use a 12Vdc rated 15 or 20 amp fuse. Either online or bolt on ones are available on Amazon and elsewhere. The bolt on ones can be attached directly to the battery positive terminal if you want. Use a minimum of 12 gauge wire if your one way run from the battery to the portable solar is up to 15 ft. 10 gauge between 15 and 25 ft, and 8 gauge between 25 and 40 ft. Otherwise you'll have too much voltage drop due to wire resistance as it's only a 12V circuit. The pros of portable vs roof mount are Roof mount pros no setup time no storage hassle charges while driving charges while in outside storage low theft risk pros of portable can locate in a sunny spot can adjust orientation for max performance no holes in roof simpler install It's a personal preference thing, and choosing one doesn't preclude doing the other later. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |