Introduce Yourself: R-Pod 192 braking issue

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R-Pod 192 braking issue

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Forum Name: Introduce Yourself
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URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=13943
Printed Date: 27 Aug 2025 at 10:20am
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Topic: R-Pod 192 braking issue

Posted By: Ronster
Subject: R-Pod 192 braking issue
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2020 at 11:46am

We just bought our 192 and love it but it has poor braking performance. I was just wondering if this is a common problem with the R-Pod.

The brakes do operate but don't seem to be operating fully. In fact when operated manually they will not even hold back my idling 2019 Frontier.

Had the brake controller checked out and took the trailer in for repair. The dealer checked and adjusted the brakes and sent me on my way. Still no improvement in the trailer braking. I even operated the brake away switch with no power connection to the trailer. I was able to idle right on down the street.

I have not checked the temperature on the drums yet, that's next.

Ron

Replies:

Posted By: mjlrpod
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2020 at 3:45pm

I have a 195, almost the same camper. My brakes sucked at first. I brought it back to get looked at. When I got it back, I was told they hadn't removed the cosmoline rust protector from the magnets. I still don't love the way it feels, but it has gotten better with time. At least now I can feel some resistance. I run my brake controller between nine and ten volts. So it requires more power than my 172 used to need (6.4 volts)

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2017.5 Rp-172
2020 R-pod 195
2015 Frontier sv 4.0L 6cyl
I'll be rpodding

Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 24 Aug 2020 at 5:51pm

Originally posted by mjlrpod

I have a 195, almost the same camper. My brakes sucked at first. I brought it back to get looked at. When I got it back, I was told they hadn't removed the cosmoline rust protector from the magnets. I still don't love the way it feels, but it has gotten better with time. At least now I can feel some resistance. I run my brake controller between nine and ten volts. So it requires more power than my 172 used to need (6.4 volts)

If the trailer brakes aren’t locking up in the parking lot test at 10 volts, you can go ahead and set them up at full voltage (12V or so). If that won’t lock up either then that’s the right setting. Use the “boost”setting (that’s what Tekonsha calls it anyway) to adjust how aggressively the trailer brakes kick in when you use the TV brakes. Even if you set that so they kick in gently then you’ll still get max braking at 12V in an emergency, which is what you want. You can also set the boost higher going down grades if you find the TV brakes are getting hotter than the trailer brakes are on grades. That’s what I do. I use a little IR thermometer to check brake temps, works great.

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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold

Posted By: Ronster
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2020 at 11:14am

Thank you for the info. I'll check on that protector and give the brake more time to set in.

Thanks again,

Ron

Posted By: jalong
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2020 at 3:09pm

Each brake has two 10" green wires that are spliced to the wire harness. I have had the wires disconnect from the splice.

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John & Sue
2016 179 - built in April 2015
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6L 13-16mpg with 179 - 21-28mpg without

Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 25 Aug 2020 at 3:58pm

Those insulation displacement connectors are junk. Replace them with adhesive lined heat shrink butt splices. You can tell if they have come open or your magnets aren't working by making several stops from 40 to 15 mph or so using only the brake controller manual slider. If you brake drums aren't hot afterwards you have something disconnected somewhere. That will also burnish your brake shoes if they are new.

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1994 Chinook Concourse
1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft
2015 Rpod 179 - sold