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Topic ClosedKeeping refrigarator cold while driving - Event Date: 26 Jul 2014

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Direct Link To This Post Calendar Event: Keeping refrigarator cold while driving
    Posted: 27 Jul 2014 at 8:26pm


If the truck uses a #12 wire with a 40A fuse you have an excellent candidate for a recall, and a fire. A #12 wire should be protected by a 20A fuse. That wire will melt and catch fire before the 40A fuse ever thinks about blowing. That said, the #12 will drop so much voltage over the 15'-20' to the Bargman that you'll get very little charge. I think many US manufactures use #10 on the charge line and even that's too small. With a 40A fuse the wire should be #8; six would be even better for charging.
[/QUOTE]

Your rite,I believe it is a 10ga wire once I looked more closely at it.

Good point,but the 40 amp fuse came from the factory that way.Hasn't been a recall for this on Silverados.Mine is a 99' model which remained unchanged until 2008.I believe there are around 8,000,000,000, yes 8 million Confused  of those years trucks built.

Just saying what they come equipped with and I haven't heard of any problems.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2014 at 7:14pm
Originally posted by GingerPod

Good info Charlie,

If the TV is set up from the factory,I/E "tow package" like on full size domestic trucks,it is possible to travel down the road with the fridge on DC. with no ill effects.

Of course propane is so much more efficient.But nice to have that option should you run out of propane on the way home from your camping adventure,especially  during a cold snap when propane use could be higher than planned.

Now I can't speak for all Models,but my Silverado with the "tow package", has a 12 ga. wire, a dedicated stud pickup with a 40amp fuse Shocked and a 120amp alternator feeding the Bargmans connector.It seems GM was thinking ahead on this one.More power than the Fridge could ever use if needed.


The answer to the first question is yes if the truck is really wired correctly. This can be checked with a meter comparing the TT battery voltage with and without the truck engine running.

If the truck uses a #12 wire with a 40A fuse you have an excellent candidate for a recall, and a fire. A #12 wire should be protected by a 20A fuse. That wire will melt and catch fire before the 40A fuse ever thinks about blowing. That said, the #12 will drop so much voltage over the 15'-20' to the Bargman that you'll get very little charge. I think many US manufactures use #10 on the charge line and even that's too small. With a 40A fuse the wire should be #8; six would be even better for charging.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2014 at 6:53pm
Good info Charlie,

If the TV is set up from the factory,I/E "tow package" like on full size domestic trucks,it is possible to travel down the road with the fridge on DC. with no ill effects.

Of course propane is so much more efficient.But nice to have that option should you run out of propane on the way home from your camping adventure,especially  during a cold snap when propane use could be higher than planned.

Now I can't speak for all Models,but my Silverado with the "tow package", has a 12 ga. wire, a dedicated stud pickup with a 40amp fuse Shocked and a 120amp alternator feeding the Bargmans connector.It seems GM was thinking ahead on this one.More power than the Fridge could ever use if needed.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2014 at 11:22am
After having learned how absorption and compressor refrigeration both work, I've discovered a new technology for refrigeration that involves the use of magnets!

See this video for a brief overview: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlKKKMTA7XM

Apparently, certain metal alloys get hotter or colder when brought into contact with magnets. Once they get colder, for instance, you can pass a liquid over or through them which is then carried to what you want to cool.

Right now, this requires a fair amount of space but could probably be fitted into a house sized refrigerator. But they're working on reducing it down to a pump about the size of a car alternator. At that point, it sounds like it would be a very viable new way of cooling things without a lot of space.

However, it would require electricity to move the magnets, so I'm not sure if it would ever be as good in a RV situation as propane. The amount of energy in your propane tank is many times greater than what is in your batteries. A single deep-cycle marine battery has about the equivalent electrical power as five CUPS of liquid propane. A 20 pound propane tank has a little more potential power than 25 typical marine batteries.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2014 at 11:05am
We've started running our fridge on propane on the road, and even when AC is available when the weather is especially hot, just because it cools the best. I'll precool everything on AC a couple of days before a trip. We use a wireless indoor/outdoor thermometer with the transmitter inside the fridge to keep an eye on things.

Cost of propane really isn't really an issue, your fridge will run for weeks on a 20# tank. For RVs with larger fridges, it's your only option other than AC.

Having said all that, I remember all our years of tent camping with only an ice chest. We had no idea what the food temp was but with two growing kids it never lasted long enough to really be an issue.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2014 at 10:51am
I live in Colorado and our dealer mentioned that altitude plays a part. For those running on 12V, where are you using yours?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2014 at 8:46am
Originally posted by WillThrill

Well I've learned something new on this forum yet again! A compressor-less refrigerator....interesting.


And there are other non compressor cooling technologies. One common one is the solid state thermoelectric cooler. Just DC in. Most frequently found in small food/beverage coolers or computer cooling applications.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2014 at 2:52am
Well I've learned something new on this forum yet again! A compressor-less refrigerator....interesting.

Very few TVs are going to provide a 10 amp charge to the Pod while running. So if you run the fridge on 12V, you're most likely going to drain your batteries at least 5 amps per hours even with the TV running, which isn't a good idea, especially if you're a dry camper like me.

So just go with propane!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2014 at 1:24pm
Originally posted by Cap-n-Cray


Just remember to switch to propane when stopping for more than an hour. You could drain the TV batteries too.


A properly installed Bargman setup will isolate the TV when the engine is off. This can and should be tested. However, the TT battery can be drained.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 2014 at 1:19pm
The Dometic in the Pods does not have a compressor. It is an absorption system that requires a heat source, either gas or electric, for operation. Therefore you'll never hear a compressor running. The way the Dometic is made it will be "running" at almost any outside temperature above 50F. The small Dometic in the Pods is spec'ed at 10 Amps on 12V. That's 10 Amp-Hrs per hour, a significant load on a battery. 25% of a single GP24 battery when sitting for two hours in a parking over lunch. Recharge while driving is vehicle dependent, but probably a break even at best. Don't count on significant gain while driving if the fridge is on 12V.

All that said, I agree propane is best, even on the road. The current OPD valves on propane bottles provide excellent protection even with a severed gas line downstream. For non-automatic fridges such as in the Pods I run them on gas at the CG to protect against CG power failures.
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