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Topic Closed4-cyl towing thoughts?

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Direct Link To This Post Topic: 4-cyl towing thoughts?
    Posted: 28 Oct 2018 at 2:11pm
To your two questions the answers are yes and yes. You have said you want at most a midsized suv. Most everyone on this forum that isn’t towing with a big truck really likes their wd hitch. You will too. They’re not expensive really. The antisway function is different from the wd function although many hitches combine them. The only caveat is to your question 2 for weight distribution, not antisway, not all receivers (the part that is attached to the tow vehicle) and tow vehicles are approved for weight distribution hitches. So when u upgrade tow vehicles, be sure to get a setup that is.

Glad you’ve found the type of camping you want to do, nothing wrong with keeping things light as long as that meets your needs. I don’t think really that gets you into a lower range tow vehicle though, IMHO you should look at vehicles with about a 5000 lb rating either way (and a 20 plus gal fuel tank).
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2018 at 11:08am
Yow! Lots of info to take in, but I’m on board with it. So you think that even if we move up from the Outback to a beefier tow vehicle, it would still be a good thing to have - correct?  And the sway bar attaches to the trailer, so it would work with any tow vehicle - correct? 

We’ve gotten used to our creature comforts and we don’t boondock. In the three years that we’ve had the A-frame, we’ve never carried water. 2 gallon jugs in the car that we refill at the campground. The only places we’ve stayed w/o hook ups were Great Basin NP & Teddy Roosevelt NP, but they had water. Lots of campgrounds have some sort of water source – not necessarily at the site, but somewhere down the road is a faucet.  And that’s as primitive as we would get - never in the middle of nowhere. For me it’s a safety issue. (Funny thing is that when I proposed trailers to my husband, he, who is an old backpacker and backcountry camper who offroaded an old FWD IH Scout all over the backwoods of CO, chasing trains thru his teens-40s, said adamantly that he would never stay in an RV campground! Never! But the first time we did, and we had heat and an electric blanket, he decided that that was ok. Now, as we look at RV parks, he’ll say, “That one looks pretty nice”.) 

Things like a second battery would be a seldom-used luxury for us. What we have done in the NPs is just plug it into the Subaru and run the car for a while to recharge the RV battery.  It’s overkill as a generator, but we’ve only done it maybe twice.  But what I would be more likely to do is buy solar panels – the portable kind. I saw a YouTube once where the guy was extolling the virtues of being able to park in the shade and set up his solar panels out in the sun. I thought that made a lot of sense. Plus we wouldn’t be carrying the weight of the solar panels on top of the trailer. 

 So – probably never water in it – or maybe just a little for flushing. 
 And only one battery. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2018 at 10:10am
I love those old ads but don’t try this at home 😀
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2018 at 9:14am
A couple pictures worth a thousand words on how a weight distribution hitch works.



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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2018 at 5:47am
TrailerTrish, IMHO you really do need a weight distribution hitch towing an rPod with something like your Subie, or even something like my Highlander. Towing safely isn't about horsepower, it's about handling weight. The truck that won WW2 for us, the famous deuce and a half that could carry nearly 4 tons of cargo and tow a artillery piece had a 90 hp engine.  

A lighter short wheelbase vehicle ends up riding way too light in front because the tongue weight rotates the rear of the car down around the rear axle, forcing the front axle upwards. The result will be poor steering and braking at best,  and can be total loss of of control at worst. 

But before you get a wd hitch, be sure your vehicle and your receiver are rated for using one. Not all are, and the wd hitch works its magic by creating a torque lifting up on the hitch and rotating the car down, so it creates an upwards twist on the receiver and on where the receiver is bolted to the frame of the car. 

A wd hitch helps redistribute the tongue load but it doesn't make the weight go away, so you still have to consider the tongue weight, trailer gross weight and total rig weight (called gross combined vehicle weight). For any tow vehicle you choose there will be maximum weights listed for all these numbers, as well as for its front and rear axles. 

And don't believe the tongue and trailer weight numbers that you see in trailer marketing literature. Those weights are based on a totally empty trailer with no propane and no battery and no water. The real loaded weights are always higher.

I saw you removed water from the fresh water tank that was there when you picked up the trailer. That was very good to do for your first trip, but unless you also drained the water heater tank you didn't lose 300 lbs, only 250. You have 6 gallons sitting in the water heater all the time, and water weighs 8.3 lbs per gallon. 

My 179 tongue weight is 570 lbs loaded, and the trailer is at about 3850 lbs,  but I boondock and have dual batteries and a full water tank. I take what I need to be able to spend a week at a remote site, and nothing more.  

Will you always be camping places that have water? If not you'll end up hauling water at least sometimes too. Will you want to stay somewhere without electric hookups for more than a few days? You'll probably need 2 batteries if you do.  A decent mattress, food, clothing, tools, a jack,so you can change the trailer tires if you have a flat, a solar module, a little propane grill, camp chairs, the list goes on... And don't forget the weight carried in the tow vehicle itself. Any weight behind the rear axle basically works the same as tongue weight. 
  

All this is why I personally wouldn't tow my trailer behind anything lighter than my Highlander. and then only with a wd hitch. It's great to try to keep the rig weight down but not so low you can't camp as you want. It won't change your fuel economy much if at all anyway, about 2/3 of your fuel is going to fight air drag on the big box behind you and only about 1/3 is rolling resistance related to the weight you're hauling. 

If you want to really know all your numbers you can load up your rig and run through a public scale, then use this online calculator and the max load specs for the tow vehicle and trailer to see where you are. I highly recommend doing this once. 

https://www.ajdesigner.com/apptrailertow/weightdistributionhitch.php


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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2018 at 2:18am
Originally posted by TrailerTrish


Originally posted by offgrid

TrailerTrish, do you have a weight distribution hitch? Highly recommended if not essential towing an rPod with a lighter tow vehicle. I wouldn't leave home without mine towing with my Highlander. 
 We don’t and I’m not exactly sure what they are -  or perhaps I should say how they work. I looked them up, so I know what they look like now. Is it something that stays attached?  If so, can we attach it, or would we take it to an RV service place for installation? Or is it something you put on every time? I couldn’t quite tell from the pictures. 





A WDH replaces the standard ball hitch. It has an adjustable shank that transfers weight from the rear axle of the tow vehicle to the front axle, and some weight is transferred to the trailer axle. A WDH ‘locks’ the TV and trailer together, so to speak, and eliminates the bouncing ‘porpoising’ that can happen to the rear axel when traveling over bridges on the interstate. Most WDH systems also provide sway control, which can be much more beneficial than weight distribution alone. A good WDH makes towing a trailer much safer and much more easily controlled.

I couldn’t believe the difference from the standard ball hitch to my Equalizer hitch.

Hitching up is a little different than with a standard ball hitch but it’s not difficult. Some WDH systems preclude the ability to back up, but some do not. The Equalizer hitch can be backed up easily. Other systems that use chains have to be removed before the trailer can be backed up.

I had my WDH installed by a hitch shop, which added $150 to the cost. I got my Equalizer from Etrailer.com and they were very helpful. I highly recommend both Etrailer and Equalizer.

It is possible to install the hitch yourself but it can require special tools, and a torque wrench, which I didn’t have.
A properly set up WDH wil ‘level’ the tow vehicle so it doesn’t sit with the rear lower than the front. It really does make a big difference, especially if the TV is not significantly heavier than the trailer. For example, a full sized 3/4 ton pickup towing an rPod wouldn’t NEED a weight distribution hitch, but could still benefit from sway control.)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Oct 2018 at 12:32am
Originally posted by offgrid

TrailerTrish, do you have a weight distribution hitch? Highly recommended if not essential towing an rPod with a lighter tow vehicle. I wouldn't leave home without mine towing with my Highlander. 

 We don’t and I’m not exactly sure what they are -  or perhaps I should say how they work. I looked them up, so I know what they look like now. Is it something that stays attached?  If so, can we attach it, or would we take it to an RV service place for installation? Or is it something you put on every time? I couldn’t quite tell from the pictures. 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct 2018 at 7:09pm
Originally posted by furpod

As a note.. the Toyota Land Cruiser, and it's Lexus twin, are, honestly, the best SUV's on the planet.

I have spent some time in a couple parts of the world where, if your vehicle goes down, there is a good chance you may die. Literally.

No Suburbans. No Broncos. No Blazers. No Explorers. No Pathfinders, Cayennes, Jeeps, Discoveries, etc etc.. almost 100% Land Cruisers. Age almost doesn't matter with them. The running gear has a long and storied history, many reaching 300K, with never even having the valve covers removed.

Truth to that - while the one I bought had been well-maintained (from the records, the prior owner was somewhat anal-retentive; he replaced stuff that really didnt need replacing), the spark plugs were still the original set (15 yrs old!). My mechanic said they still looked semi-reasonable considering their age. I replaced them of course. Amazingly well-built vehicles and a very comfortable ride. I'm sure some electronic stuff will go in the next 5-10 yrs but with what I have invested in it, that's ok if I have to spend a few $,000 to keep it rolling for another 100k miles. Driving it, it still feels like a new vehicle. Now if I only kept my collection of cassette tapes.....
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct 2018 at 6:46pm
LCs!? Very well jato. LC's are massively overbuilt. Have you ever looked at one? I had a 20 ft 8x12 beam that had originally been holding up my house fall 10 feet onto mine (long story), got a very small fender dent, barely visible. There is a reason the rest of the world swears by them. There are some really bad roads in Africa and Latin America.   
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct 2018 at 6:00pm
Originally posted by jato

Originally posted by furpod



No Suburbans. No Broncos. No Blazers. No Explorers. No Pathfinders, Cayennes, Jeeps, Discoveries, etc etc.. almost 100% Land Cruisers. Age almost doesn't matter with them. The running gear has a long and storied history, many reaching 300K, with never even having the valve covers removed.


Sounds like my '94 F-150 with 320,000 + miles.  My question is how would those vehicles hold up to 31 deer kills and even more 'hit and runs' to numerous to count?LOL


Many of them have hit camels and goats in pretty high numbers.. deer are rare in that part of the world... Oh, and the occasional land mine..
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