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Topic Closed4-cyl towing thoughts?

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Direct Link To This Post Topic: 4-cyl towing thoughts?
    Posted: 18 Jun 2018 at 6:48am
If you are unwilling to change vehicles, (and I totally understand that), then the Pod just isn't for you. The A frame you tow, has almost no frontal area when collapsed and towing. An R-Pod is a 8 foot by 7 foot wall.

Side note.. DO NOT buy a Rialta. or at least do a ton of research first.. Every single owner I have ever talked to, said the two best days of ownership were the day they bought and the day they sold.. (and the wife and I love VW's.. one in the drive right now, 6 in our "history" together)
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 2018 at 1:33am
Thanks for all the suggestions. I’m a little overwhelmed by the breadth and quantity of opinion. I still haven’t finished digesting all of them. 

 I just want to toss out that we already ARE towing, we HAVE towed over the Rockies and the Sierras, and the vehicle feels quite comfortable doing that. In CA, the highway speed limit for trailers is 55, and we tend to not exceed 60 anywhere. We don’t see the point in trying to go any faster - less control and higher fuel consumption. We aren’t in any hurry.  We don’t feel that it’s unsafe, and we bought the four-cylinder at the same time we bought the A-frame for that specific purpose. We bought the trailer at Camping World and they were aware of what we were considering for towing. You may or may not like Camping World - I certainly have my issues with them – but their shop didn’t think it would be a problem. Perhaps we’re shortening the engine life, but it only has 20,000 miles on it so far, so I think it has a ways to go.  We only do this a few weeks year. 

Getting a new TV is not an option. It’s a matter of towing or not towing an R Pod with what we have. Our current A-frame, a FR Flagstaff T12RB, is 2014 pounds according to ForestRiver. We have no add-ons and even have a subtraction: we use the dinette as a full-time second bed, so we took out the heavy particleboard table and replaced it with a much lighter sheet of plywood.  And we have very little in it. There are no cabinets to speak of, so we don’t carry anything. The small area under the sink holds less than 10 pounds of backpacking pots and pans, and the small drawer under the microwave holds our owners manual and registration.  We’ve never carried water ever. I do my dishes out at the camp spigot. 
In the outside hatches, we have plastic chocks and levelers, two folding lawnchairs and the electrical cord - that came with it.  And a small welcome mat to wipe our feet. We are not overloaded. 

Years ago, driving through Montana, we came across a poor dumb yuck who had been towing an overloaded travel trailer with a pickup. He must’ve been moving because it was loaded to the gills. And the reason I know it was loaded to the gills is because all his belongings were spread across the highway and down the embankment. He had spun, the trailer torqued onto its side, slid to the edge and had burst open. It was a mess and we felt sorry for him, but as soon as I ascertained that he wasn’t hurt, that he had a cell phone and had called for help, we drove around him and headed on. There was nothing we could do for him. But that stays in our mind and we have no intention of being like that poor guy. 

If we can’t do an R Pod, maybe we’ll just stick with the A-frame and I’ll keep suffering through going outside to pee at 3 AM at 35°.  We are in our 70s and I don’t think we have that much traveling left in us. I just thought I’d like to be a little more comfortable for our last year or two on the road.  I looked at a Scamp on Craigslist, but my 6’2” husband had to tip his head to the side to stand up. :(  If this doesn’t work, my next option might be to look at a VW Rialta. Fully self-contained and they still get something like 20 mpg.

One more question. The older RPods are several hundred pounds lighter than the new ones. If we strip off the roof AC, might that help? (I understand it wouldn’t do anything about the wind loading, just the weight and top heaviness).  Or once an AC is put on, is it possible to even close up that hole? (And in any used one, any TV/video would be tossed. We have our Kindles and iPad.)  But maybe the wind loading is the big stumbling block anyway and everything else is moot...  

Thank you so much for all of your answers, suggestions, and thoughts! 
Trish
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2018 at 1:50pm
So in essence, the Outback just sounds like the wrong vehicle for towing, unless you're towing something really small and low profile (like a pop up). Too light, too small, wrong transmission, unibody. You don't even have to look at he engine.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2018 at 12:44pm
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is the outback has a max tongue weight of 200 pounds. My 172 has 250 + pound tongue weight. I actually traded my outback when I bought my pod. Everything together just sounded wrong. The low tow capacity, 200 pound tongue weight, unibody (no wdh recommended) cvt transmission all were headed in the wrong direction. I have seen a few people online that say they use a subaru outback to tow a pod, but I don't see many. I originally thought, "we don't bring much stuff, we should be ok", but thankfully i opted for the frontier. Reality is, you're gonna want to bring lots of stuff.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2018 at 10:44am
I may be wrong but I believe that since 2015 the Outback has come only with the CVT no standard transmissions.
Ron & Sharon
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2018 at 10:42am
Originally posted by ronahue

Certainly this vehicle would be marginal at best for what you want to do. I have had 4 Subaru Outbacks and think are are a fantastic car. Besides the obvious weight issue I would have 2 concerns, the frontal area of the r-pod and the CVT transmission. See if you can find out if their is a frontal area restriction, I know my Frontier has a restriction if 39 square feet which puts my r-179 right on the edge. While I love the CVT in my Outback I have no idea how it will stand up to towing a trailer. Good luck.
I did not see in the OP where a CVT was mentioned. However, if that is the case, I would never dream of towing with a vehicle with a CVT. At least not today. Someday maybe, but then again...
bp
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2018 at 9:49am
Keep in mind, it isn't the number of cylinders in the motor that determines the ability to tow.  It's is a combination of factors including torque & horsepower, the engineered strength of the engine components, the sturdiness of the transmission to have the force of sustained loads without overheating, the strength of the components in the axle(s) and differential(s) and/or transaxle, the relative weights of the TV and the trailer, and the overall strength of the suspension.  You can drive a tank on a 4 cyl. engine if it is "beefy" enough and geared properly.  

 Towing or loading a vehicle to its capacity or beyond stresses all the drivetrain components. Stuff is going to break at some point.  Tiny fractures start to appear at stress points and then suddenly, wham!, your stuck in the middle of nowhere (which starts about 50 miles east of my house) and the shade tree mechanic, with the missing front teeth who never worked on your brand of car before, is trying to rebuild your constant velocity automatic transmission.  Not a good picture, especially when he reminds you, the city slicker, that "ya'll ain't from around these parts, is ya."  

Bottom line, mechanical things, be it a vehicle, a bridge, or a dam, are designed to withstand limited forces.  When you overload something, it is going to fail, it's just a question of when and how badly.  A 2cm thick axle drive shaft is going to break under load well before ja 6cm shaft.  Loading a vehicle beyond its towing capacity is just plain dangerous for you and for those with whom you share the road.

We drive a Mazda cx5, which is functionally similar to the Outback, though the rated towing capacity is about 700 pounds less, despite a 2.8 L engine vs. a 2.5 L.  We wouldn't dream of towing with our Mazda.  When faced with the what to pull our Pod with, I went out and bought a used small 8 cyl. pickup for the trailer we planned to buy.  The total cost of trailer and TV was less than what many pay for just their new Pod.  And, we couldn't be more pleased.  We have a TV matched to the trailer and have found that both have served us very well.  I hope you are able to get the Pod and find a way to come up with something that can adequately handle the weight you'll be pulling.  Best of luck.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2018 at 7:40am

The factory Outback hitch is 1-1/4" however I have seen Outbacks with a 2" hitch from after market suppliers.
 
Ron & Sharon
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2018 at 7:27am
One other thought: What size hitch receiver is on the Outback? If it is a 1-1/4" hitch receiver, that is a big clue that an R-Pod is not something you want to try. I just found a web page with some helpful definitions about Trailer Hitch Classes and Towing.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jun 2018 at 6:12am
Certainly this vehicle would be marginal at best for what you want to do. I have had 4 Subaru Outbacks and think are are a fantastic car. Besides the obvious weight issue I would have 2 concerns, the frontal area of the r-pod and the CVT transmission. See if you can find out if their is a frontal area restriction, I know my Frontier has a restriction if 39 square feet which puts my r-179 right on the edge. While I love the CVT in my Outback I have no idea how it will stand up to towing a trailer. Good luck.

Ron & Sharon
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2022 Nissan Frontier

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