I know this is long after the fact, but I don't remember if I answered your question. It is likely moot though since the restrictions have been lifted.

If you look at Chris Cancilla's site, W4CEC.com, you will find out information there. Another is Five County Ham Radio Enthusiasts. Both are Laurel VEC teams and thus do not charge a fee for testing, unlike some of the others.

Kindest regards, Bill

As for the tires, get them balanced if they were not done so already. Also, check that there is not excessive camber (tires leaning in or out). Also, check the inflation to make sure it is up to specification for your tires. The wear pattern will help you diagnose what is happening. If the wear is in the middle but the edges are okay, then it might be overinflated. If it is on both edges, but the center is okay, it might be underinflated. If the wear is on the inside or outside edge, but the rest is okay, then look at the camber. If it is scalloped, then have the tires balanced and/or check the brakes for drag. If the brakes lock up, it will put a flat spot on the tire. Last, check the bearings in the hubs. If they are too loose, the wheel and tire may be moving in ways that they are not supposed to .

Also, do a search of the forum. Advanced search is your friend. With it, you can search older posts. The default is to only search those newer than 6 months. With advanced search, you can search any date and be more likely to find help.

Stephen,

Great idea on the Jack pads you made. When the weather cooperates, would it be possible to show a picture or two of the placement of the jacking pad in position to lift the trailer. I am confused as it relates to lifting the trailer. Dimensions of the block would also be most appreciated. 

My 192 was purchased last July and after driving it home 180 miles I noticed the tread seemed worn down significantly. How could that be. Maybe not new. Hum. After 800 miles of use this past summer I am most disappointed with the Goodyear Endurance tire and likely also purchase the Carlisle tires next summer. 

Thanks in advance for your reply. 

Bill 

We will have an issue in the future. My wife just started using oxygen at night. We will need to figure out how to power an oxygen concentrator. That will likely be a modification to come.

Bill

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDUTQS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Used it as directed and the RV water system never smelled better. It's not a sanitizer which is not a big deal since we carry drinking water separately.

Not sure if this in response to a different post under a different topic but the baking soda, lemon and vinegar concoction was in response to one year when I mistakingly used RV antifreeze in the water lines to winterize.  The following spring I couldn't get the taste out of the lines until using a mix of 1 cup baking soda, 16 oz. lemon juice and 32 oz. white vinegar.  I mixed that all with tap water in a gallon jug, shook it until the baking soda was in suspension and poured the 1 gallon contents (added tap water to make 1 gallon) into the FW tank using a funnel.  I then added an additional 4 gallons tap water to the FW tank.  Immediately after that I ran the cold water taps for about a minute to make sure the mix was coming through (didn't bother with the HW side as we don't use for drinking).  Let sit overnight - total time was about 12 hours, drained the FW tank and added a few gallons fresh water and ran through the lines again to see if problem was solved.  It was, no more aftertaste of RV antifreeze (or smell).  NOTE: I did not use this to sanitize but rather to get the bad taste out of the lines as we use our FW tank and lines for drinking water.

Thank you so much. 

Bill

I took a piece of the fabric that I used for making the dinette modification cushions. My wife used her serger to serge around the edges so that it would not unravel. I then took a thin board about the same width as the aluminum frame under the refrigerator. I stapled the fabric to the board on the back side of how the fabric would hang, letting it fold over the top and hang down. Three screws hold it in place. It covers the unsightly lines and pipes and will allow easy retrieval if anything should fall down there again (as it has in the past). Being fabric, I won't have to worry if it hits something as the slide is being extended or retracted either.

What size tube did you all use??

Regards

M

What size tube did you all use??

Regards

M

The radio is an ICOM IC-7100 and the tuner is an MFJ-939I I also have a Motorola speaker mounted (after the picture was taken). It works pretty well, although the real test will be how it works when we travel.

I do not show the antenna or tuner cables connected. The good thing about the head unit is that it connects via a cable and can be moved along with the microphone when in use, then stowed when not needed.

The bottom connector is for the HF antenna. The top connector is for the VHF/UHF antenna. Since I travel with an Icom IC-7100, I only have to carry one transciever.

Nice! Why two PL259 connectors and is the connector to the left a power connector?

73's

KN4VBT

One problem with ham radio is in running cables for antennas and if needed, an antenna tuner. I had resorted to trying to fit the cables in the space between the slide-out and the wall through the space with the rubber seal or through the window. I was concerned with damaging the rubber seal and through the window is an issue that there is then a gap  that can let insects in. I could have made a plug to fit in the window, but I decided to do something that would work and not block the view from any window. I decided to make a pass-through that would go into the wall below the slide-out and the cables would be inside the front ottoman. 

Because I use an Icom IC-7100, which supports HF, VHF, and UHF operations, I needed to run two antenna cables and a cable for the AH-4 antenna tuner for the Eagle One antenna I use when portable operation. So, now I will just need to move the radio in its carrier and the head unit from the truck to the RPod when I want to switch from mobile to portable operations. I till make it nicer for Field Day.

Outside view:

Inside view:

I sealed it with Lexel clear sealant. It should provide excellent protection without the down-sides of silicone. It is also can be painted if necessary or desired. The black sealant is liquid electrical tape.

The last part modified was to add a notch to the side of the ottoman in order to pass the wires through. That way, they can be coiled up out of the way when not being used, but fed though while still allowing use of the ottoman.

If wanted, one could use SO-239 connectors, but I decided on BNC connectors because they are waterproof while connected and the cover makes them waterproof while not being used.

Welcome and congratulations on your 2021 RP 179. May you have many fun adventures and make many great memories in your travels.

I just finished a mod to get access to that space by the door. In the 2021 179, they gave us a 7 cubic foot fridge/freezer. It works great.  A pleasant surprise! The convection/microwave was installed under the counter in the space by the door under the cooktop. There was almost a 12" high space, roughly 24" by 30" left unused under the conv/microwave.. A rubber gas line ran vertically through the space  and some wires ran across the back. I relocated the gas line to better use the space.

The big problem was how to make a door. The cabinetry around the access to the space was like a picture frame. There was a panel stapled to the back of the face frame that was easy to knock loose. How to make that panel into an easy to use door?  The answer is magnets.  First I added a 5mm baltic birch to the back of the panel. I mounted a drawer handle on the panel. I drilled some tiny location holes through the cabinet face frame and the panel. I drilled out the location holes to 1/2" and deep enough so the magnets would fit flush. . I glued some 1/2" diameter magnets in the 1/2" holes careful of the polarity. 

So far we have small folding chairs, foot stools, side tables and extra water hose in that space. This freed up space in the forward storage area under the bed.

Thanks so much, Stephen, for all your work and sharing it with us. I've got a lot to digest here, and I'm a tyro when it comes to this stuff.  We had a compressor fridge in a slide-in pop up truck camper years ago, and it worked great, but it was a little noisy.  What is the sound output of your unit?  I think we, too, will go with a 200ah Lion batt.  We're fed up with malfunctioning 3-ways.  I'm going to bookmark this thread!

PS:  Can you tell me which page of this thread I can find the initial batter mount info?

I'm pleased with it. When I put the 200AH battery in it, I needed to do a deep draw (still trying to find out how deep "deep" is). I started with a warm refrigerator and about a day and a half later on the same settings, I had used about 90AH. Just how much, I am not sure of because I was also trying to calibrate the meter.  Now, this was with nothing else running. Again, it was on empty and the next to the highest setting. I expect I won't be doing any long-term boondocking, but for our purposes, I will be happy with the power use. Plus, I now have the 100AH battery available for ham radio use.

With you being a 1/3rd larger frig than I, I'm surprised by the draw.

Yet I don't know: Is it loaded? From a warm start? Ambient temp? Setting on frig?