The temp gun really allows specific comparisons and you learn the normal trends afterwe wrote them down during a trip. We checked them every time we stopped. The gun came from Harbor Freight and was reasonably priced

Vann

I think that a lot of the aftermarket controllers advise the same (skidding) procedure for adjusting the controller.

I suspected that the reason the RPOD wouldn't skid was perhaps that the RPOD brakes were not self-adjusting and needed adjustment (which brought me to this forum).

I didn't inherit any literature from Forest River about the brakes, so I got the Dexter Axle serial number from the sticker on the axle and called Dexter's service contact number. They told me that my axle has Forward-Self-Adjusting  brakes which automatically adjust for brake lining wear (without braking in reverse). (Coincidentally, the initials "FSA" were also typed on the axle sticker)

Furthermore, they said that the brakes are designed not to skid and that Dexter wishes that the brake controller manufacturers would stop advising the 20 MPH skid procedure for brake controller adjustment.

It sounds like you are left to your own devices find a comfortable brake controller setting with these kind of brakes. I have been setting my GMC controler at 6.0 (out of 10) and it seems to brake the trailer OK. But to be honest, I can't sense much difference when I vary the setting.

I have made a habit of comparing (by feel) the temperature of my trailer brakes to my tow vehicle brakes. If the trailer brakes are hotter than the truck's, then I start backing-off the controller setting number until they both warm-up to about the same temperature. This is the best subjective measure  that I've come up with to adjust my brake controller.  I'm thinking of buying a temperature sensing  gun to keep my hands clean and be a little more methodical/scientific.    

"Flooded" is a bit exaggerated... but enough rain water got in there to rust the bearings. The whole point of my post is that this happens (probably more often than you think) and the only way to find out is by doing a full inspection. Using the Zerk fitting will not catch failed caps or seals, nor will it tell you the condition of the bearings or brakes.

Great point... though the manuals that came with mine were pretty generic. My Lippert manual states that the brakes need to be manually adjusted, but I found out just this week that it has the automatic variety. They should still be inspected regardless of whether they are manual or automatic.

Every time the subject of bearings and brakes comes up, advice and opinion is rampant across these boards.  Some people insist that bearings must be repacked annually.  Others claim that every other year is sufficient.  Others say that using the zerk fitting to inject grease into the hub will address any lubrication issues.

That might be true, but it wasn't the packing that was the problem, it was water contamination. If you have a failed cap or seal (I had one of each) you need to repack. The only way to find out is to take everything apart every once in a while.

Trailer bearings sit for potentially months at a time. This gives the grease a chance to settle and potentially expose them to corrosive elements.

Are you actually suggesting that you shouldn't adjust your brakes until they stop working? What if they stop working while I'm going down a 7% grade... ??? You should absolutely adjust your brakes BEFORE they stop working.

I would humbly suggest you check out my other post where my bearings had rust and pitting after just 2 years and 5k miles:

Pumping grease into a zerk fitting doesn't tell you anything about the condition of the bearings or seals. Think of it like adding oil to your engine... you still need to change your oil regularly.

Electric brakes absolutely have a limited stroke. And there are no solanoids used... just an electromagnet that drags on the inside of the drum. Once that magnet reaches the end of it's arc, that's it. If they're not self-adjusting they should be adjusted every few thousand miles.

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I finally answered my own question and thought I would post the answer for others. I now know that the brakes on my Lippert axle are self-adjusting after repacking the bearings. When the hub is off you can clearly see a cable that connects between the two pads, through a pulley and then down to an indexer on the star nut. Basically if there's too much give between the two pads it will automatically tighten them up. I would imagine that if you removed the plug on the back and looked inside with a flashlight you would also be able to see the metal tab that increments it.

 

And it is a lot more fun!