It typically comes in a little container with a very peculiar applicator which ends up wasting more than you use, but I found several years ago you can also get it in a tube; sort of like a mini toothpaste tube.

Highly recommended. IMO, way, way better than teflon tape. 

And there lies my most successful tactic in maintenance and repair. 

Same here, teflon tape all the time.  By the time you screw it in, the threads will still make contact with the tank, thus allowing the anode to function properly.

Pump, 2 main locations to look at: 1) the 2 way valve in front of the pigtail used for winterizing - make certain it is closed all the way.  2) check your screen and glass thimble that screws into the pump - maybe a hairline crack?

Batteries:  Northern Michigan here and once they are given a 2 amp trickle charge for 24 hours at the end of October they are set directly on a concrete floor in an unheated garage and left there until re-installed early May the following year.  Did you check water/electrolyte levels last fall or regularly check them throughout the winter so that no dry cells were observed.  The two batteries i have, have been real troopers and get used a lot since we normally boondock and do not utilize either solar or generator. Batteries: 14 yr. old Interstate deep cycle and 5 yr. old Trojan T-1275.

As for the pump, the one in our Grey Wolf loses its prime as we are going down the road. This is wasteful as then the pump has to prime again, which means precious water is lost down the drain waiting for proper pressure to build again.

I am in need of your advice regarding the water heater anode installation. I don’t tape the anode threading and I cleaned all threads thoroughly with a brash brush, then applied silicone lube. There is a three-second drip leak after my normal torquing yet I am leery of torquing it further.

Is teflon tape called for?

Thank you.

Bill