https://andersenhitches.com/product/weight-distribution-hitch/ 

Once properly adjusted, the tension bars will be a little below the L brackets and unless you are really strong, you're not going to be able to put them into running position.  The solution is simple, just raise the tongue with the tongue jack until the bars can be positioned, put in the retainer clips, then lower the the tongue and stow away the jack in the full up position and you're ready to go.  To unhook, use the reverse process.  They give you a pry bar to help muscle the tension bars into position or pry them off the L brackets, but that is way too much work and if you ever got hit by a tension bar popping off under pressure you could really hurt yourself.  It bears repeating that this procedure presumes proper adjustment of the WDH in the first place per the manual's instructions and that the WDH is properly sized for your trailer and TV..  That means you vehicle may not be perfectly level, but is within the range described in the manual. 

If the WDH is properly adjusted the front height is either equal the unladen position or up to half the distance between the position of the front with no WDH while the trailer is hooked up and the unladen position.  There is a sweet spot that is described in the manual.  If the front position is higher than the sweet spot, then not enough weight is being transferred to the front and the torsion bars needed adjusting per the instruction manual.  If the front is below the sweet spot, then too much weight is being transferred to the front axle requiring a different adjustment to the torsion bars.

As OG suggests, it seems the ideal is reaching the same front height position as the unladen TV, but not below it.  Presumably the TV before loading is more or less "level" with the ground, but different' suspension vary so the pre and post loading measurements are critical.  The instruction also discuss the position of the trailer pointing out that it should also be more or less level with the ground and that the hitch head inside top on the trailer should be even with what would be the top of the hitch ball, or very slightly above it.  They have a nice diagram to illustrate it.  See figure 1, page 10.  

And last but not least, be sure to attach all the warning stickers they give you so that you can wear them off from normal use and other users can blame you for their failure to read the manual.

Well, no actually they are talking about the rig in total; TV and Trailer being level. Additionally, while putting a packet of instructions together for the new owner of our Rpod, I came across the Fastway setup instructions for the E2 hitch. The setup is pretty clear that, with the TV and trailer loaded as they would be for a normal trip, the distance between the trailer frame rails to the ground should be equal front and back and the distance from wheel opening to ground on the TV front and back should likewise be equal. To me, that means the TV and the trailer are level as a unit.

Anyway, I have no dog in this fight since at 10am MST, our 179 left with its new owner for new adventures. My final thought is this: Level and balance are mostly good things and my gut and experience tell me that this applies to RVs. Yep, there are outliers in any distribution but for the most part, the norm is good. If the manufacturer of a trailer and the manufacturer of the hitch system recommend level with while staying within the weight capacity of both the TV and the trailer, it is probably a good idea to follow those recommendations.

Maybe we are saying the same thing, maybe not. I'm out.

GlueGuy. Really? I didn't know that just having towed our new Escape 5th wheel 1500 miles back home from Canada. I guess I better send the new E2 back. Explains why I couldn't hook it up 

Not to be argumentative, but using a WDH on a 5th wheel is not possible; at least with all the 5th wheels I know. The load point for a 5th wheel is MOL on top of the rear axle, so it changes the weight distribution equation from a completely different perspective.

While our F150 does not "need" the WDH, we discovered during our evacuation for the CZU Complex fire (when we did not hook up the WDH for expediency), we discovered that it made an unfortunate adjustment to our headlight aim. The headlights ended up high, such that they would blind oncoming traffic. Not a desirable effect.

Originally posted by gpokluda Skip, FWIW When we purchased our Rpod new, the RV dealer told us the exact same thing they told you. No WDH needed, just go with a friction bar. After a couple of short trips, I ordered a WDH from Etrailer.

Yes, welcome to the forum.  As you see there is a wealth of information to be gleaned here.  I have benefited many times from others wisdom and experience on this forum.

I also was told when picking up our brand new 2011 177 back in March 2011 that no WDH was needed, he sold a $ 40 Curt friction bar and that is all that is currently used 12 years later.  Tow vehicles that have been used mainly include the following: '08 and '13 Explorers and '11 and '17 F-150.  Over 41,000 miles towed under extreme weather (snow, sleet, hail, high cross-winds) and road (8-10" water, gravel w/potholes, sand, two tracking) conditions.  Have no complaints - the 177 has held up extremely well.

I've adjusted our Fastway E2 for two different trucks and trailers.  It was mostly just a matter of moving the hitch bracket or the torsion bar L brackets up or down, to achieve a level TV.  Fastway has a helpful video on how to do it.  Since all WDH's are used on different TV/trailer configurations, it'd seem that they'd all have to have some kind of adjustment capacity.  I never towed our 172 with our Ford and it may have not really needed a WHD for that weight of trailer.  It sure smoothes out the ride with our Sonoma, though.