Thanks for more detail.

Maybe OG's suggestion of a curtain makes the most sense...now if I could just figure out the best option.

Transversely could mean "front to back,  but I drilled from the sides. I made sure the screws were long enough so that 1/3 of the screw would end up in the dowel. I also drilled pilot holes for the screws so they would not split the dowel.  After attaching the new hardware, I stained the dowels using dark walnut stain so they would not be so obvious.  One could use walnut dowels but I didn't have any so I used the dowels I had.  These were poplar but any hardwood dowel would do.  You could also use pine dowels but these sometime have noticeable grain in them.  In that case, you might wish to make sure the grain in the dowel ends up running parallel to the floor so there is less chance of it splitting under pressure.

How exactly?  By drilling 1/2" holes in the door (front to back, not vertically [i.e., "transversely"]?) and pushing the dowels in to the holes?

Our pool noodle has so far kept the door from detaching even more than it already has, but I'm looking for a permanent solution.  Been fighting this battle for almost three years.  Once the screws start pulling up and out of the door you're...screwed.

The hardware had broken on one end of my door and the screws had pulled out on the other end.  I ended up buying new hardware (rated for a 200 lb. door) and installing that.  Since the door is basically made with thin plywood attached to fiberboard I was afraid the screws would pull out again.  So I inserted sections of 1/2 inch dowel transversely into the door and drove the screws through the fiberboard and into the dowel. This won't keep the latch from coming unlatched but, if the screws pull out, 4 inch of the door will have to go with them.

I know this is a bit late of a reply but the pocket door falling off has been a problem on our R-Pod 195 since the 20 minute drive from dealer to driveway where the hardware actually broke and continues to be a problem with the door falling off the hardware. 

During our first real trip, it happened on every leg even with pool noodle wedged underneath and rigid foam next to the door.  So I watched this video, which seems to be filmed in an R-Pod, but it was immensely helpful in learning to get the door out of the pocket and re-attaching the hardware (presuming the hardware has not broken).  http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8eust5n3gHM

The video is well done and clarified a great deal.

The main issue is that the part of the hardware that is supposed to latch the post (coming down from the track) into the slot (on top of the door) never stays locked in place. 

We had an additional issue in that the last screw holding the track into the ceiling all the way back in the pocket was not installed properly and sticks out.  So when the roller detached from the top of the door, it bounced its way back past the last screw and unless you have very skinny and long arms, you cannot reach it.  I used a crow bar to reach in and pull the roller forward and then re-attached it as the video suggested.

After doing this on each leg of the journey, my husband tried a piece of spare wire to hold the latch in place on one of the posts (apparently airlines do this for some things...interesting thought).  On the next leg, the post with the wire held, the other post latch came undone.  We replaced the wire with zip ties when we acquired some.  (See photo below; you can see the white zip tie wrapped around the post and enclosing the latch.) for now it seems to be holding. 

We want the dealer to ensure that the hardware is not defective beyond a poor design choice for a door rattling down the highway and fix the improperly installed track  (still under warranty).

 

I can probably get new workable hardware at a hardware store but how does one access the track the hangers go in?  Any suggestions?