So what I gather is that it was working properly in July-hot and cold at both bath and kitchen faucets.

It still seems that somehow you have turned off the cold water output line.

again, mine may be different, but In order to bypass the water heater, you turn off the cold input to the heater and turn off the hot output from the heater. You mentioned where the red goes into white piping.then, to suck the antifreeze you have to turn a valve (maybe a 3 way?)to create an intake from the short antifreeze hose. This may be the problem valve.

The pex going into the hole in the floor is the intake hose from the fresh water tank to the pump most likely.

I would suggest that instead of hooking up city water, try putting a few gallons in the fresh water tank and then rework the valves back to original position so that everything works (water coming from both hot and cold at each faucet even though you don't need to actually fire up the heater)and then retrace the winterization process.

One other remark-when you are using compressed air, keep all faucets and low point drains closed except for the one you are clearing.  you fill all of the lines with air and then one at a time blow the line to the kitchen clear by opening the kitchen faucet cold . then close it and open kitchen faucet hot. then move to the bath and follow the same procedure.after you have individually cleared the faucets, then do the toilet and shower.  finally, open the low point drains and fresh water tank drain.

a long process that gets easier every time you do it.

good luck-keep writing up the results

Vann

+1

Interesting, you state you use compressed air and were able to purge all H and C lines yet when it comes to filling your lines with antifreeze it only comes through the H lines correct?

From the pump the outgoing line runs to the HW tank and since that is bypassed for winter mode that is the place I would first look to see where the kink is (at the HW tank) and follow the cold line downstream from there.  Double check all lines under the sink near where your pump is, a lot of 'stuff' under there and maybe something inadvertently was moved causing the cold water line to kink.

FYI Compressed air has been used to blow out my 177 for the past 10 winters here in northern Michigan.  Always keeping one faucet open and using 85 psi it takes less than 2 minutes to go through all lines, including the toilet twice.  After that a total of 16 oz. RV antifreeze is used for the 2 sink and 1 shower trap as well as a small amount on the toilet lid to keep the seal moist.  No leaks or breaks.  If you are certain all the water evacuated by using compressed air I see no reason to fill lines with antifreeze.  Just to double check yourself you could unscrew the filter at the water pump to make certain no water is there as well as unscrew your low point drains and check for any residual water there.

I'm not familiar with your particular model-we had a 173 and now a 179. However, most of the plumbing/piping systems are pretty similar. 

It sounds like perhaps the cold water has been shut off at the valves when you bypased the water heater. that's why the pump doesn't come on when you open a cold faucet. I would check all of the valve positions .

This assumes that you had cold water available at both faucets prior to winterizing.

good luck

Vann

Drained all the lines, pumped air for 8-10 mins., shut all faucets, by passed water heater tank, turned pump to antifreeze pickup, started pump, primed, open kitchen hot, got antifreeze so closed, open cold got NOTHING.  Went to the shower, open hot go antifreeze so closed, opened cold and again got NOTHING.  By the way pump only runs when I open the hot.  Same thing happened with outside shower.  On the 2017 172 where can I look for a kink in the main cold water line, or what ya'l think (other than, Here Hold My Beer, ) ?

Thanks

Tom