You could look into the Andersen "No Sway, No Bounce Weight Distribution Hitch." if you are concerned about the weight of the hitch. The video on the web site would help you determine which one would be correct for you.

Also, while all the ones I mentioned incorporate sway control, it is not infallible. There are still situations where the sway control of the hitch may not be sufficient to prevent an accident. I know. After that accident, I added the Hayes Sway-Master Electronic Sway Control which is plug-and-play. It sits inline and will activate the trailer brakes if sway is happening. Unfortunately, it seems to be no longer available. 

The good news is that there are two other options. Lippert and Tuson make electronic sway control devices as well. See the information on eTrailer for details.

If there's still a gap (ours is maybe 2") between the bottom of the door and the floor that's where the issue is.  The door wants to pull off the rather flimsy upper hardware support.  We wedge a pool noodle (cut about in half) under the door when on the move.

They still have the pocket door, but I haven't checked to see if FR has stabilized the bottom.

Do the newer 195/196s have the bathroom pocket door like our 2020 195?  If so, be sure to support it at its base when on the road (to the OP and anyone else it may concern).  They like to pull off their upper attachments.

Things to look for:

Fit and finish: Make sure all drawers work and align properly; make sure all doors work properly and are secure (I don't recall if the 196 has a sliding door or not). Make sure all locks work smoothly. Hopefully, the dealer will have vacuumed out the manufacturing sawdust from inside the cabinets and behind the drawers. Verify operation of the slide-out.

Plumbing:  Make sure all faucets work. There has been a problem with plastic residue from installing fittings clogging the faucets. Make sure the person conducting the walk-through demonstrates the winterizing valve operation, operation of pump, and operation of water heater, both on propane and electric. Make sure water heater is full before turning on the heat, either gas or electric. Have them show you how to make sure that it is full. Also, have them show you the anode rod and explain about removing and replacing as needed.

Heat and AC operation: Have them demonstrate the thermostat and operation for heat and cooling. Verify operation of both AC and furnace. Have them show you how to set the thermostat for fan on Auto, Hi, or Lo. If you have been reading, you already know why you want to know that.

Refrigerator:  Make sure it works, not only on electric, but also on gas. Ours had a mud-dauber nest in the flue which caused problems. Make sure they show you the outside panels and let them show you the operation on gas so you know what the flame should look and sound like.

Does your Suburban already have a brake controller built-in? If not, you will need to install one. If it already has the round Bargman 7-way connector, it will be easy as there should be a connector under the dash for a brake controller.  I don't know what type of WDH you are gong to get. Whichever one you get, remember that the initial set-up by the dealer will likely need to be adjusted once you get the R-Pod loaded. Your dealer should verify that all lights work properly once the trailer is hitched.

Do a search (may need to use the advanced search) for Brake Burnishing. Your brakes will need to be burnished before they will perform adequately.

Last, if you can, bring a camera and take lots of pictures and notes. Or, you could shoot a video. Best is to have one person taking notes, paying attention to the walk-through while another person shoots video. It is hard to catch everything when one is trying to shoot video.

I think you are already off to a good start. I hope this helps. The 196 is a nice layout.

Right now we are working thru WDH type. TV is a 2017 Suburban. If I’m close on camperspeak, it’s due to obsessively reading this forum. Thank you for already being a huge help