Originally posted by Colonel Podder Thanks for the information, that helps a great deal! ......make adjustments as needed. I could run the outdoor probe under the floor and above the membrane to monitor temps there.

Ya know, that's actually a great idea. Think I'll try in the next time I go out on those days when its warm all day and below freezing at night just to see what happens. I love this forum.

I will store the pod outside behind the house, and plan to run power to where it will be parked. The compressed air method of removing the water sounds like the best bet for me. I may also rig up an indoor/outdoor thermometer and make adjustments as needed. I could run the outdoor probe under the floor and above the membrane to monitor temps there. 

Thanks Again!

Where will the camper be stored? If at home, just turn on the heat, or plug in a small ceramic heater on the days/nights it's going to be to cold..

as a side note we go to SC for part of Dec and Jan every year, to HBSP.

Here at home, we have FHUs, so I just leave a small electric heater running, set around 50F, and the propane heat set as a backup at 40F, JIC. Just drain the low points and WH when we get from the beach in January.

A note.. it's really only the fixtures and valves you are protecting, the pex plumbing itself is freeze proof.

The problem I am having is how to access the water heater by-pass valves as they are located behind the converter and under the refrigerator.  It appears that one would need to remove the converter into to get to them.  

So, I can't or won't be using the nasty pink stuff to winterize.  I use the air method although it meant buying a fitting and takes two people.  The only thing I worry about is any residual water left in the toilet valve as it can freeze and crack the valve.  The solution has been drain all the tanks and to plug the Pod in (we had a 30 amp line run outside the house) and leave a small heater on inside the camper.

I'm thinking the same would work for most of y'all in South Carolina.   Happy camping!

You could just wait to winterize till you knew you were going to have a hard freeze and maybe not even have to. The bottom cover is supposed to help with freezing but won't do anything unless you heat the interior. True 4 season RV's have insulated and heated basements. But in your case it might be enough to get you through. I guess you could also place a heat source under there too, like a couple of strategically placed incandescent light bulbs. 

Newbie here again looking for more answers! We have had an RP-196 on order since early September. But we do not have an estimated delivery date yet. However, we do expect the time frame to be in the December - January range. So it will most likely be winter when we take delivery, and of course we will be eager to head out somewhere close to start learning and enjoying. Living in South Carolina our winters stay mostly above freezing, and we would plan the first couple of trips to the warmer areas of the state if we should decide to venture out this time year.  

With that, I have a question about winter camping in the general area where we live. Not sure if we should take delivery with the camper winterized, and wait until warmer months for the first few adventures? We don't have many days below freezing, but do have a few, mostly in January and February. Also, I have noticed that the RP-196 has a membrane on the bottom of the camper that covers all the plumbing and structure from exposure, maybe this helps with the winter weather? Or maybe it is purely cosmetic? I am not sure of the true function. I know the furnace will keep the camper warm which will also help with the plumbing, but what about when you are towing? Seams like there would be additional cooling going down the road? Just trying to plan way ahead and research things we know nothing about!

Sorry for the very long question, but I would appreciate any information you would care to provide. 

Thanks!