Winterizing Steps:

1) Open both low-point drainsunderneath the camper. These usually hang down along the left edgeunder the floor. You will need two crescent wrenches, or equivalent -one to hold the upper "nut", one to twist off the lowernut.

2) Open the hot and cold valves onthe kitchen sink, then remove the anode rod plug on the hot waterheater. Water will gush out - but it will not be under pressure.Inspect and replace the anode if necessary (about every two years).The water heater must be stored dry, do not try to fill it withantifreeze. Wait for the water to stop running out of the drains andplug hole. Using a garden hose, flush any debris from inside thewater heater tank. If you don't need to inspect your anode rod youcan pull open the pressure relief valve at the top of the waterheater to speed up the draining process (some people do not recommenddoing this due to a fear of damaging it, but others do it all thetime w/o a problem). Insert the anode rod, using a layer of teflontape on the threads.

3) Turn all 3 bypass valves on thehot water heater. The valves are inside the trailer on the back ofthe water heater - look on the outside of the camper to see where thewater heater is located. The valves on the cold and hot water lineswill now be perpendicular to the water lines (closed), and the valvebetween the hot and cold lines will now be parallel (open).

4) Attach a "blow-out plug"to the city water connection. This has an air inlet on one end likethe Schrader valves on your tires, and threads to attach to the waterconnection. Any RV dealer should have one of these plugs. Apply LOWpressure air (less than 20 psi) until the low-point drains stopsputtering. Close the low-point drains finger-tight.

5) Open each valve inside thecamper, one at a time, until it sputters and then close it. Don'tforget the toilet and shower. Remove the blow-out plug. If yourcamper has the black tank rinse connection, apply air to thisconnection for several seconds using the blow-out plug.

6) Inside the trailer, remove theaccess panel for the water pump (on the 171 its the same location asthe water heater). On the intake line for the water pump, you'llnotice a valve and about 2 1/2' of tubing that's loose on one end. Afew model years did not include this at all, later models don't havethe valve and you must remove the intake hose to attach theantifreeze pick-up hose. If you don't have one you can buy thepick-up hose from any dealer. Flip the valve and put the loose endinto your jug of PINK RV antifreeze (DO NOT USE ORANGE OR GREEN AUTOANTIFREEZE). The pump will now draw from the jug of antifreezeinstead of your fresh water tank.

7) Turn on the switch for the waterpump.

8) Turn on the taps at the sink andin the shower, one at a time. Let each run until the water is thecolor of your antifreeze (pink), then close it.

9) Run the toilet until the water ispink. Flush what comes out at first, but leave some of the pureantifeeze in the bowl for the winter.

10) Open the low-point drains again,let them run until you see pink. Close them tightly.

11) Pull the hose out of theantifreeze bottle just enough so it can't suck up any moreantifreeze. Turn on the sink again for a second or two until theantifreeze is out of the intake line. This keeps the stickyantifreeze from running all over the floor when you pull the intakecompletely out of the bottle.

12) Close the valve near the waterpump, stow the intake hose and close the access panel, turn off thepower for the water pump.

13) Outside and underneath thetrailer, open your freshwater tank's drain valve and allow it toempty.

14) Pour some RV antifreeze into theshower and sink drains to fill the water traps.

15) Make sure the black and graywaste water tanks are empty. The last dump of the season fill bothtanks full of water before dumping. Repeat at least once.

16) Set the fridge's door latch soit stays open - look at the assembly on the wall of the fridge, youcan slide it out some so when the door is latched it stays openenough to prevent mold from growing. Or just hang a hand towl overthe door so it won't close.

17) Open the lower fridge vent andlook for the white drip cup. It can be removed by pulling it towardsyou. Empty and replace. 

18) Remove the 9 volt batteries fromthe smoke and CO detectors, and make sure the lead-acid battery isdisconnected.