In this case the logic is that by placing all disconnects, switches, fuses, and circuit breakers in the ungrounded (positive) conductor you can count on the circuits being dead when those devices are open. If you put some disconnects one line and some in the other it is very easy to inadvertently get current flow when you don't expect it.

There is nothing "iffy" about the applicability of the NEC to RV's because of jurisdictional differences. The Code gets updated every 3 years and then has to be adopted by each authority having jurisdiction. So you can find one AHJ on one cycle and another on a newer one. 

But, keeping the neutral connected and grounded and switching the hot conductor has been in the Code from before anyone on this forum was born, it is fundamental to electrical safety strategy in North America. The only exceptions are some industrial applications where the equipment won't work properly unless its on a floating circuit, and then there has to be special ground fault detection equipment in place. So, no matter what jurisdiction you are in and what code cycle you are on, you are non compliant if you are switching the grounded (negative) conductor. 

Hope this helps.

Originally posted by Buffalohunter Dsbryant interesting observation as I too have the little red light on the tv booster on the roof of my pod...a 2020 189. Mjlrpod’s solution sounds so easy for your pod and I do hope it works. Maybe with the 189 they built in frustration as I have no little red light or little switch anywhere that I can find that would do the trick. All the wires from my tv run up and disappear in a ceiling mounted box of mystery. Like you say probably not drawing a whole lot of power. Still it bugs me to see the light and not be able to turn it off. Did you turn yours off...I hope you did...still worrying about it here

Buffalo, my Rpod is a 2018 180.  I have the same situation with wires disappearing into a box of mystery.  I did find the push on/off button on the face plate that turns on the red light on the face plate but it does not turn off the red light on the roof antenna when in the off position.

I took the face plate off to see what's in that mystery box...see photos.  The only way I could get the roof light to turn off was to disconnect the gray coax cable inside the mystery box.  I connected the gray coax to the third unused coax fitting in the photo and the roof light would not turn on with the push button in the on position.  I am thinking about putting a on/off switch on the outside of the mystery box to turn off the power to the face plate switch.  I suspect it is the red/black pair.  I'll have to do some wire tracing and disconnect the battery before I cut them to install a switch though.

Wires disappearing into the mystery box.  Push switch in off position.

Push switch in the on position.

Back of face plate.  Red coax is attached to "Satellite" fitting on face plate.  Black and gray coaxes attached to circuit board on "TV" coax fitting.

Gray coax disconnected turns off the red light on the roof antenna.

The button is integrated into a cover plate roughly the size of a standard household outlet cover.  It has a bright red LED that indicates the booster is on.  Right next to the bright LED is the aforementioned push button.  Toggle it off, and the booster on the roof and the LED goes out.  
Photo might help a bit.  

If yours disappears into the ceiling . . .  then I wouldn't have any suggestions, as I definitely am a noob to the RV thing.  

It probably would place a very minimal drain on my batteries, but watt the heck, I'm currently very amped up that I can turn it off and not worry about it.  

Thanks

Any time I see a light like that, it indicates that some device is active and is potentially drawing power from my batteries.  I'd like to see if there's a way to turn off that antenna device completely and any associated power drain it might be responsible for.  

Any ideas?

Thanks