Thanks again! Cant believe I dodged a set of tires/rims!

Andy

I'm pleasantly surprised that FR is putting 15 load range D tires on the trailer. They didn't do that in the past. The tires that came with mine were 14 inch LRC's rated at 1750, same as the axle. 2540 lbs gives you a nice 45% safety factor over the axle rating. That is the rating of the tires and wheels  I upgraded to. I wouldn't change them, they should be fine. 

If I were to upgrade something next it would be to add axle reinforcement to try to get the axle capacity up closer to what your tire rating is. There have been quite a few instances of bent axles reported on rpods due to the upward force on the axle ends because of the inboard location of the axle to frame attachments.  There are a couple different options to do that and posts on it here. The simplest way is to use square u bolts to attach a 2x2x3/16 steel angle to the bottom of the axle. The steel angle needs to be bent slightly upwards in the center. I did this mod to my 179, only cost about $100. 

Turns out they are Castle Rock ST225/75/R15 Load Rating 'D'. They have a speed rating of 'L' 75 mph.

They also have a Max Load Single of 2540 lbs  / dual of 2200 lbs.

The dry weight on the new 190 is 3030 lbs.

These are made in China but should I swap these out with other 'D' rated tires or do you think these will be sufficient and safe?

Listed as an 8 ply tire with 2 plies of Nylon in side wall.

Also 5 bolt pattern.

Thoughts?

Don't hold your breath. Besides, where would be the fun in that? 

Hopefully the new RPOD 190 comes with an owners manual!

All of you are my owners manual now....

Thanks

Andy

When our 195 with factory solar is being staged in the driveway and hooked up to house power I don't touch a thing...don't even know if the solar charging can be turned off.  Never an issue...battery usually shows "Full" in short order if it wasn't already from sitting in storage in the sunny Denver area and charging away.  IMO that's one of the nicest things about having the solar...never have to worry about the battery discharging from parasitic draws or having to disconnect it.

I bought one of these and it is good to get the RPod relatively level. Hopkins Smart-Level I still use a small torpedo level inside to verify though. I did not want to put screws through the side of the RPod, so I have mine attached with double-sided tape. Since it does not sit fully tight to the wall, it does have a bit of wiggle room so that is why I verify. The lights are great as I can see in my rear-view mirror when the RPod is level side-to-side. Then I can unhitch and do the front-to-rear leveling. If you go to the site linked, mine is the first review in the list.

The level stays in my silverware drawer where I can toss it on the floor by the door when setting up. If I get withing a half bubble I call it good. One trick if you have one of the three support points on softer soil is to start with that point half a bubble high so when it settles (and it will) you end up about right. 

Do not use the stabilizing jacks for any leveling work at all. They and the trailer frame are not designed to carry any load. Once I have things where I want them using the legos then I crank the stabilizers down until they make contact, no further. 

Now for Leveling. I bought pads for the jacks. I know that leveling is required for the fridge to work correctly. 

How does this product stand up to the task or is there a better choice that folks use when not at a level camp site?  https://www.walmart.com/ip/Andersen-Manufacturing-Camper-Leveler-3604/136232245?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&&adid=22222222227052461104&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=152936878305&wl4=pla-262694364147&wl5=1021839&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=136232245&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_4jdu7iN6gIVTOG1Ch0w9QS4EAQYBCABEgLTF_D_BwE

Also would you recommend a carpenters level inside the rpod on the floor when leveling side to side and front to back?

You don't need chlorine tablets. You can use standard household bleach (make sure it is just bleach, not bleach with detergents for cleaning) to sanitize the tank. You can find sufficient information in a search for the process of sanitizing as well as winterizing and de-winterizing.

I can't help you with factory solar as we don't have that except for the connector in our 2016 RP179.

The refrigerator switch should be on the refrigerator's control panel.

I use a biological agent such as TankTech's RX, Unique Products RV Digest-It, Happy Camper, etc. in the black tank. Avoid any product that contains formaldehyde. Some only mask the odor. The biological ones help break things down. They do need to be added every time the tank is emptied along with some water. The additive package will give you instructions.

We use a Camco Taste-Pure filter when we fill our tank and when we connect to city water. I have an elbow that screws on to the filter's outlet and then into the fitting on the RPod for city water or to a filler tube for filling the tank. That way, it filters the water going through the hose as well. Don't forget about a pressure limiter to keep the pressure to 50-55 psi or below. That will keep your water lines from getting damaged by excess pressure.

You actually will have a 30 gallon fresh water tank. The six extra gallons are the capacity of the water heater. Before you turn that on, make sure you find the isolation valves and turn them so that the tank can fill. Verify by going outside and opening the cover and then use the pressure relief valve to ensure water comes out and not just air. Unfortunately, you will not be getting this demonstrated at a walk-through so you will need to research it to find wher ethey are or have a knowledgeable local friend help you while you learn how to use your RPod.

    Looks like I should be getting my new 190 in the next few weeks. I am at a disadvantage as buying this through a wholesaler in Ohio who I am paying to tow out to New Hampshire. So wont be getting any in person demo of how everything works.

   Since I have factory solar with 2 - 12 V deep cycle batteries in Parallel which I will request, I am wondering what position the switches in the camper need to be since I will be leaving this plugged into my 30amp outside power outlet? Will both the solar and house/wired power be charging the batteries or is there some switch that I need to turn off?

  Also where is the switch for the refridg to put it on battery, LP or wired electrical? I assume that is the only appliance that can run on LP? So when driving/towing does it just runs on battery that is constantly being charged by tow vehicle?

  Also I assume I need to put some tablets in the black water tank initially? Would this be done following every time you pump the black water tank out?

   What about the fresh water 36 gallon tank? Does it need any chlorine tablet?

     I see people are using water filters for drinking and some folks just bringing gallon water separately for drinking. Does the filter go between the city water/hose line and the camper or somewhere under the kitchen sink? 

Thanks in advance 

The formal spec for residential line voltage in the us is 120Vac +-5% so 114 to 126Vac. That's I'm sure why the Hughes autotransformer cuts in at 114. Can't argue with that. But in reality the loads in your trailer (or your house) aren't that sensitive to voltage variation. They would be damaged much more frequently than they are, its not like utility line voltage is always within spec. The only load in the trailer that won't like really low voltage is the air conditioner. And 108 isn't that low. I'd be more concerned about high voltage (which can happen with an open neutral at the panel or utility transformer) cooking the converter. 

If it is a 20A outlet, you will not have a problem running the AC. However, running both AC and refrigerator at the same time on AC might be a problem. If it is a 15A outlet, it is likely that if there is anything else on the circuit, you won't be able to run the AC. It may start, but it will likely eventually trip the breaker. That is my experience. Besides, when you plug it in, the converter will be trying to charge your battery. That in itself will rule out running the AC until it reaches float mode. As for the refrigerator, if it has the capability to run on LP, that would be best if you can get the RPod close to level while you are loading it. It will take about 24 hours to cool down. The rule is to pre-chill things that you want to put in there. Don't expect it to be able to cool a load of warm items very well..

Jaymed, I hope you disconnected the battery or have a cut-off switch. You might get there and find you have a dead battery if you didn't. There are some items such as the LP/CO detector which can't be disconnected and which are a constant power drain. Add to this that Pb-Acid batteries self-discharge and a dead battery is likely unless you have periodically checked and charged it.

Interesting unit.  Don't recall it being available when I bought my autoformer.

I do see that my 30-amp autoformer will start boosting if the voltage drops below 114V, whereas this unit will cut your power if the voltage drops below 104V.  My question for the electrical experts is: What are the consequences of running your RV appliances for hours at, say, 108V, which the "watchdog" apparently would allow?

   Since we still dont have ours yet, I am guessing that like the fridge it should be able to be run on LP. You will need to verify that. I also dont know your answer to your question but I have also heard that you can use that adapter to plug into 110 outlet I just dont know the restrictions.

Still learning! 

I assume you mean the distance from your electrical panel to the rPod outlet. 40 ft is nothing, you'll be fine, 2% voltage drop at the full 30A using 10 gauge wire which is the minimum wire size required. Your electrician does this for a living. no worries. 

Since my electrician is coming tomorrow, what do I need to account for since the distance from our power line from the Rpod and outlet may be about 40'?

At a price of $209 seems like a good balance.

My Autoformer warned me of a pedestal problem (bad ground) before I ever hooked up the Pod to shore power, so we moved sites.  Does the EMS surge protector do something similar?  I really don't know...

Your two batteries can either be two 6V deep cycle golf cart batteries in series or 2 12V in parallel. The series configuration is preferable so if your dealer hasn't installed them yet you should request that. Either way, the two batteries should be in all respects identical  (brand, voltage, type, capacity, age). Do not let the dealer mix and match.

I installed a 30 amp outlet at my shop to power the pod. this is the outlet/box combination that I used- it was the best one i could find for the $$$-works great.

Vann

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Connecticut-Electric-30-Amp-RV-Power-Outlet-CESMPS13HR/100669968