And this amplifies exactly my point: Misunderstandings can certainly happen, over the phone, on the internet, and in person. 

None of this is directed to the OP and his abilities...although something happened:

When it comes to a home electrical service panel with high voltages and lots of amps just waiting and ready to do interesting things, 'pretty sure' is not what we want to hear. If not 100% sure, the voltages should be verified with a meter.

Just sayin.

The abundance of information is a great thing about the internet, so there will always be information on DIY. 

A rabbit hole, in other words. And too high a chance that other expensive control boards in the camper could be damaged if things are not 100% correct at the converter output.

I would replace the entire converter module, and then if you find the time, you can always experiment with the old one, on a workbench, with an old battery and a couple of lightbulbs for testing.

If it works, hey you have a spare unit. But very likely it wont, and you will find that other components are damaged.

Offgrid, gotta hand it to ya, I would simply NEVER try to explain house wiring, circuit breakers, 120 and 240 volt connections, neutral, ground, and two hots, on a forum, where someone will promptly go and mess around in a service panel and bad things could happen. Very bad things. 

I would tell them: If you do not know EXACTLY what you are doing in there, call an electrician.

It's a bit like explaining to someone how to remove their own appendix! (in other words, if things dont go exactly right, death can occur!)

Ya's gots balls...all I can say.

If what you're suggesting is could you try replacing the blown caps and see if the converter board might then work, you could certainly give that a try if you want. It's not like they're expensive and it sounds like you know your way around a circuit board. Clean off the leaked fluid so you don't breathe it when you de-solder the old caps. Don't bother if the board itself has burned tracks.  The worst that can happen is you'll find out where they hid the smoke a second time.....

If the AC was off when you had it running 240V, it is likely that you dodged that bullet and your AC is okay. As for the capacitor losing its fluid, that is not good. The capacitor is compromised, if not blown and not functioning. It may be that some of the parts of the converter are still functioning, but whatever was on the part that uses those capacitors may not be. I'm not an electrical engineer and I don't have a schematic of the converter and what parts of the circuits do what function. I had a computer where it was not working properly. Some functions were fine, but then it would shut down unexpectedly on other functions. When I looked, it had some blown capacitors.

The safest thing is to replace the converter and chalk it up to a learning experience. If you have the capability to replace the capacitors, you may be able to restore full, reliable functionality if nothing else was damaged from the power overage. However, that is beyond my skill level. 

The wire originally going to my hot water heater has black, white and ground ( But yes the hot water heater has black, red and ground)

In my service panel the black and white were connected to the double pole breaker. I removed the lower leg and connected it to the neutral bus. I've read online people doing this in a time crunch, I understand it is temporary. 

:Line to neutral: 120V. Line to ground 120V. Neutral to ground: 0. Done!:

Was part of my test :)

Now I am glad nothing extremely bad happened.

I am curious on what the detriment of a capacitor losing its electrolytic fluid.

Those two capacitors are 200V 680 uF

I had the camper plugged in for a good hour, tested the AC for a little (2 minutes), but I am refraining from keeping the AC on for too long. 

Anyways thanks for all the advice, much appreciated!

Let's hold up here a minute.  Unless the 240V 2 pole breaker was a gfci breaker it didn't have a neutral wire going to it. Neutrals are never disconnected in breakers. In gfci circuits they are routed via the breakers so the breaker can monitor the current flow through them, but still not disconnected by the breaker. Neutrals are white so you can tell what they are (unless someone wired your house improperly). Hot wires are always colored, typically black or red. Grounds are bare or green.

The two wires originally leading through your double pole 30A breaker are both hot wires. Most likely one is black and the other red.  If you measure the voltage between either one and neutral you should get 120Vac. If you measure between the two of them you should get 240Vac. That is because while they each provide 120Vac line to neutral they are 180 degrees out of phase with each other, ergo, 240V between them.  

Edit: deleted, unless you know what you're doing hire a licensed electrician for this work. 

Picture for reference. 

Likely, you did smoke the converter with 240V. The 30A outlet must be 110V. Don't bet on the water heater connection being 120V unless you actually took a meter and checked. If so, it was a wonder that you did not cause more damage to the RPod. I installed one myself for our RPod. Since I was starting from scratch, I did not have the issue of wrong wiring. Here is something I looked up about water heater wiring: https://www.thespruce.com/safely-replace-electric-water-heaters-1152637

"Electric water heaters require a 240-volt dedicated circuit, which serves only the water heater and no other appliances or devices. The circuit wiring typically includes a 30-amp double-pole breaker and 10-2 non-metallic (NM) or MC cable. At the water heater, the black circuit wire connects to the black wire lead on the water heater, and the white circuit wire connects to the white wire lead on the water heater."

If by some rare chance it is 120V, then you may have the polarity reversed. I'm not sure if that would have the same effect. As for the converter, I will send you a private message about that.

If you somehow got 240Vac across those caps they would almost certainly cook off on you. Can you be a little more specific about what and how you wired things up? Do you have a voltmeter you could use to check what you are supplying to the trailer? It needs to just be straight 2 wire (line and neutral) plus ground 120Vac. 

I have the 2017 R-pod 179

The model number is WF-8955PEC, but I thought since the camper is rated for 30 amps I would need a 30 amp converter.  Thanks for that explanation. 

Welcome! Please give us more information to go on. What model RPod and what year? What is the model of your power center? Is it a WF-8955PEC? That is what is in our 2016 RP179./

What is the model of your power center? Is it the WFCO 8955? If so, the converter is 55A, not 30A. Why the difference? It is because of the transformer. 55A at 12V DC is less than 9A 120V AC (roughly). The circuit breaker for the converter is 15A. It would only draw maximum amperage trying to charge a very low battery. When it switches from bulk to absorption mode, the draw is much less. It is minimal when it switches to float mode.

Capacitors can go bad. I had that happen with multiple electronic items over the years. Until you can get the converter addressed, you can use an automotive battery charger to charge the battery. However, it it was dead, it may be bad and should be tested.

I have a brand-new WF-8955-MBA on hand. I had one replaced under warranty and was sent a new one. It has been sitting in the box which was opened only to let someone take pictures of it. Then it was sealed up again. I recently changed from a Pb-Acid battery to a LiFePO4 battery and needed to change the converter to the WF-8950L2 MBA and so I have the working WF-8955-MBA as a spare. I don't need two of them. I would sell it for significantly less than you could purchase one.

OTOH, is your RPod less than 2 years old? If so, you should contact WFCO as the warranty on the converter is two years. Go to WFCOelectronics.com and choose the option best suited for you.

For the last month I have been testing the camper with 15 amps and no problems.

I take out the power converter and notice two capacitors are bulging on top and there is a oily fluid all over the board probably capacitor fluid.

So I either replace the capacitors with the same rating or find a new 30 AMP WFCO converter.

Has anyone had this issue.

I had a feeling something was going with the electrical because the battery lost charger after a week of being off ( not connected to power)