I assume your 190 has the Thule awning?  That is my main concern about fitting the cover.  Thanks for letting me know about the antenna, I wasn't aware it was easy to remove.

Even if you were going to move up soon to a 220V/50A RV the 50A Hughes autoformer wouldn't work in the interim. It would be a mess at best and a hazard at worst.   If you got an adapter to go from 110/30 at the pedestal to the Hughes device it would throw an error code since only one phase of the expected 220 would be live. And if that problem could be overcome then you'd still need a second adapter to go from 220/50 back to 110/30 to connect to the trailer. If you skipped the first adapter and connected the autoformer directly to a 220/50 outlet at the pedestal then you will have created a safety hazard in the downstream cord and trailer circuit which is capable of handling only 30A not 50A, not to mention being limited to  only using 50A pedestals from then on. Bottom line, don't do it, wrong tool for the job at hand. 

No benefit at all. The 50A Hughes device is made for use on a 220Vac supply feeding a 220V 50A rv. , it won't work for you on a 120Vac  30A supply feeding a 120V rPod. 

 

Thanks!

A lot depends on the quality of the power available. In some RV parks, the electrical systems are inadequate and there can be brownouts which could damage things like the AC. The Autoformer is made for such situations where the voltage is sagging. It will boost it which means that the amperage needed to run things remains lower so your appliances are likely to last longer. However, whether you NEED one or not, is debatable. Whether you might find it useful is a matter of personal choice. I chose to purchase one.

For the most part, if you think you will have relatively stable power without voltage sags, then a surge protector or an upgraded circuit analyzer with surge protection is a good choice.

The current will go down downstream of the autoformer, but will go up on the upstream side. Just to be clear. So if you are on a 15amp breaker at the pedestal, and you are drawing close to the 15 amp limit. Then you put in the autoformer which boosts the voltage downstream it is possible to now trip the 15 amp breaker feeding the pedestal (because the current on that side will go up).

The iGen2200 should run the AC just fine, especially if you install a Micro-Air EasyStart. Until April 30, there is a $30 discount. You won't be able to run other appliances at the same time (e.g. refrigerator on propane instead of 110V) or do the converter's bulk charge on the battery, but it should work, at least at lower elevations.

One consideration with a generator is that unlike shore power, a generator is not bonded. I made a bonding plug. They can be purchased, but it is cheaper to get a 3-prong plug and use a short piece of wire to connect the neutral and ground. This is used in one of the generator's outlets to make it act like the shore power and keep the circuit analyzer happy. Otherwise, it will throw an error.

If your supply voltage is low an autoformer should reduce the current load on the circuit not increase it, because if a transformer is increasing voltage it will simultaneously reduce current, so the power output equals the power input (less a very small loss to internal heat in the xformer). If the supply voltage is OK it won't have any effect. The Hughes site explains this pretty well. 

I also have a iGen2200 inverter/generator, that also probably won't run the AC, but it can be paralleled and considering getting a 2nd one as that should run the AC.  

I pick up my 190 in 2 weeks, it is 3 states away, then I will immediately be using it for work with no 30 amp access.  Getting everything together without having it the 190 on me is proving to be difficult!  Fortunately I shouldn't need the AC for a while.

For now, I have been putting a plastic cover over it. That is why I have been thinking of figuring out a way to mount it inside.

Edit: The first one I saw at the rally, the owner had inverted a 5-gallon bucket over the top of it so it was protected. He also had it sitting on a couple of blocks so it was elevated off the ground.

1. On the 179, the power inlet is located at the rear corner behind a removable panel below the shelf under to the right of the sink. It could potentially go there. It could be boxed off and a piece of acrylic or polycarbonate plastic used to make a window to view the lights.

2. Also, there is space behind the power panel in the 179. It could potentially mount there. However, it is unlikely that a window could be made to view the status lights.

I'm not sure where it could be mounted in the 190 because I have not seen how one of those is laid out. If the power input is in the rear corner as in the 179, then it looks like one could be mounted in the rear pass-through under the dinette.

As for 110V adapter, I'm not sure what you mean. Are you referring to an adapter for plugging into a 15A outlet? If so, I am not sure. That would be a question for Hughes. It is meant to be plugged into a 30A outlet. I would not expect a 15A outlet to be optimal. You would not be able to run the AC reliably on 15A, especially if the converter is also charging the battery.  I have not tested it with the Generac iX2000 that I have yet. I will probably do that now that you asked the question. I think it would still boost the voltage, but it might increase the amperage needed, which would have the possibility of tripping a 15A breaker. I guess the answer would depend on what you would intend to operate. Some things are voltage-sensitive and sagging voltage is not good for them. The AC is one such item.