Thank you, I have noticed the radio/tv backlights.  I've got one of

those battery switches from my off the grid days. Will install it in

the next few days. Thanks for the answer!

Ben

In our 179,  I was irrritated by the constant "ON" of the stereo system. Even if it was turned "off:, there was still a backlight and battery draw. We boondock a lot and I did not want the battery draw when we were using the pod.  I installed an inline switch in the 12v power line by removing the 4 screws that held the unit in place. Easy 10 minute job--but it takes 2 people. The second hands hold the unit up near the opening while you make the splices-there are a lot of wires that connect to the stereo unit and it can't be pulled out but about 4 inches.

note that the white rod is one end of the curtain rod that encloses the bed area.

Vann

Thank you glue guy

I just happen to have one of these from my off the grid dayz.

Perko for switching batteries. It was next on my list.

B

At my age, with the early onset of senile dementia I would be reluctant to put a switch on the LP detector, lest I forget to turn it back on when I'm using the trailer.  In the confusion of getting everything hooked up and ready to go it'd be easy to overlook.  If you look through the archives, you'll find plenty of stories of people forgetting to stow or turn off/on many systems or devices that are obvious, such as the rear stabilizers or the front jack.  

By the way, welcome to the board.  Slowly but surely, we Nevadans, likely ex-Californians, are becoming a force to reckon with.

Decades here doing both on and off grid system design and installation, I share your annoyance with parasitic loads. Other possible parasitic loads are the TV antenna booster and the stereo if those are left on.  But these days, PV modules are so cheap that its really not the problem it once was. Depending on where you store the trailer you could consider adding enough PV on it to not need to worry about those small draws. 

Thank you Mr. Off Grid,

Dayton, I'm in Gardnerville.  I've designed off the grid solar systems

in the past, so I'm familiar with many things electric.  Luckily I began to 

monitor the batteries on the first day. Of course I found a propane

sensor which was on 24/7. I added a switch and began to wonder

what other nuisance parasites were drawing down my batteries. Hence, 

my desire to find a wiring diagram.  Will make my own, thanks, but

found the forum and thought I'd try asking.

Thanks for your response.  BTW, I was born in Nashville.

I just bought a 2012 - 177. Love it, perfect for me and my dog.

I was beginning to realize that I'd probably have to make my own schematic.

I've done some solar power work in the past and realize the importance

of not having devices draw down one's batteries. 

The first day I owned it, I found a propane

sensor was on all the time, drawing down the battery bank. 

I added a switch to it. A month of that and the batteries would've

been dead. Knowing there is no schematic I believe I'll track the 12Vdc 

first and rough out a schematic. Now I'm thinking about adding

a battery switch. I just happen to have one of those big red Perko dial

switches, I think I'll add that as well.

thanks again

Ben

On the 120Vac side the 30A connector on the side of the trailer runs to the main circuit breaker in the panel. From there the individual breakers supply each appliance or outlets, just like in your house. They're all labelled. One feeds the battery charger.

On the 12Vdc side things are more complicated because there are multiple sources of power (usually 3 and 4 if you add solar). The trailer battery, the 12V side of the charger, and the tow vehicle charging system via the trailer connector. There are  two 40A fuses in the panel that connect to the battery. Two fuses are used so that both the positive and negative battery connections are protected in case someone connects the battery in reverse (don't count on them saving you though).  From there, there are individual fuses in the +12V leg for each appliance or load, also labelled. 

You also have the trailer brake and lighting circuits which are run directly from the tow vehicle connector and are separate from the house 12V circuits.   

Hope that helps get you oriented. I'd highly recommend getting a multimeter if you don't have one already, it will greatly help you in identifying and or troubleshooting electrical issues in you trailer. Get one with a clamp on ac/dc current meter function so you can check your current flows as well as your voltages, they're pretty cheap nowadays. 

There's no such thing.  People here will probably be able to help with any questions though.

Pods are small and for the most part, the wiring is fairly easy to track.  Are you interested in 12v or 120v wiring?

TT

Hello All,

I am a new member to this forum. I've got a 2012 rPod model 177.

I'm looking for a wiring diagram, or schematic for my model.

I'm not being picky and would be happy to have any rPod model

schematic, realizing of course that it wouldn't be 100% accurate,

but I would be perfectly happy to chase the schematic down

and verify it's correctness first.  Please help me, or point me

in the correct direction. 

thanks

Ben