The 12vdc fridge element (heater) is on a seperate 15A self-resetting breaker mounted on the floor in the converter cabinet. It is the one I had already replaced...it was and is, 15 amps.

Sounds fixed to me as well. You should probably mark that fuse position to require 15A so no one puts a 30A back in there in the future. 

So there is a separate dedicated circuit for the 12V fridge element? What fuse rating does that one use? 

Weird, because the fuse diagram shows that fuse as "15 AMP Refrigerator Element"  but it came with a 30A fuse in that slot. That circuit is NOT powering the refrigerator 'element', it is powering the refrigerator electronics. 

When I pull the fuse, the fridge eyebrow dies (blacks out) and I hear a beeping sound. When I do an amperage test, the fridge eyebrow board is pulling about .06 amps, and just a bit more when the ignitor is firing. I forgot to test the 'door open' LED light, but I suspect that is also quite low.

There are no fuses or breakers in the back of the fridge on or near the ignitor itself. And the letter refers to a wire from the spark ignitor to the distribution panel. There is no such animal. 

There IS a 14 ga wire (two conductor) from the fridge (12vdc electronic) to the panel, and as I indicated earlier, it is connected with a crimp connector to the green wire from the converter, and that wire is protected with a 30 A FUSE. which I replaced with a 20 A fuse for now. 

My assumption at this point is the exact technical details are either loosely translated, or deliberately vague.

Turns out the fridge circuit for ONLY the fridge electronic and control is connected with a crimp to a separate heavy green wire coming from the converter box, and protected with a 30 A fuse. But the printed fuse diagram shows a 15A fuse in that slot, NOT a 30A fuse.

As far as I can tell, nothing else is on that wire. My r-pod is a 171 with no slide, so maybe the 'repair' for mine is simpler....insert the correct fuse. (can I be that lucky? dunno)

I swapped in a 20A fuse and did some more testing...no issues. I will let it run this way, testing out things, then swap in a 15A and see what happens. 

Since the recall notice mentions the 'fridge ignitor' I thought that they might possibly be referring to the 12vdc heater element...(which is protected with a 15A self-resetting 12vdc breaker) ..yes, I know that's not an 'ignitor'..the LP ignitor is the ignitor, but that ignitor is wired and controlled thru the fridge eyebrow board.

But reading thru the online documentation AND the letter I received, it is a bit unclear. The recall notices use the term '30A breaker' in some places, and use the term '30A circuit' in other places, and we know that the ignitor and control boards run on 12VDC, and are protected with FUSES. Besides, the only 'breaker' (for 120v) in the converter panel that controls the 120v fridge element is on a 15A breaker...I verified this. 

I have also verified the 12v fridge heater IS on it's own separate 15 A 12vdc self-resetting breaker. I know this because the first one failed (the plastic housing broke) and I replaced it with a new 15A breaker.

The person I talked to said that their notice will have detailed information about the 'repair'....if only I knew if that notice advised the tech to change that one 30A fuse to the correct 15A fuse (as marked) and send the owner on their merry way. 

 

CYA and all that.

I had no plans to go that direction on my next out-of-town venture...

The recall concerns a wiring issue for the refrigerator.

I plan to call the dealer and ask what the fix is...exactly. 

If they will be simply moving a wire on the converter, I can do that here without having to drag the trailer 160 miles round trip for a simple half-hour fix.

NHTSA Recall # 19V356