Originally posted by GlueGuy Originally posted by lostagain California has nothing that is average.  Everything is exceptional; exceptionally wet, exceptionally dry, exceptional fires, exceptional floods, exceptional traffic, ....  I could go on for another paragraph, but it'll get off topic.   That ship has sailed.   At least our tornados are below average.

But you make up for it with earthquakes...

Much better to use the term "average" or "mean". Sierra snow pack is highly variable. The figure usually used is surface water equivalent on April 1, which is about when the snow pack is usually at its max. The standard deviation of this number historically is something around 50% of the mean or higher, so you have about a 1/3 chance of having 150% of "normal"  or 50% of "normal", and about a 5% chance of having either 2x of average or zero snow pack on that date. Check out this set of charts.

Unless you live in one of the recently burned areas where too much rain can be a really bad thing...

It was when it left the factory....what happened?

Not that far off topic really yet, but we we're still working it....

And a really low tire will make a dull thud.

Boy did we wander off-topic....probably my fault...again...

... but seriously, you would be amazed at how accurate you can get with things like this with a bit (or a lot) of experience. That said, using a tool (like an IR thermometer or torque wrench) is still a good idea for the rest of us who are not "calibrated" appropriately. 

I do the F to C or C to F conversion in my head while I'm walking around to the other side and using the opposite hand. The smell of burning flesh means that there was a mountain behind me.

Hey, you asked! 

Duct tape is fine, but my lab supply is calibrated to 1/100th of a volt. I be in the know, don't cha know.

No burned fingers here either....I'm good at this..and yeah, I also know how the brake controllers work.

And I own two IR guns me-own-self...

But...a variable voltage power supply is easier and works with no vehicle (or assistant) needed. You can dial up the exact voltage (usually 2-4 volts) that slightly engages the brake magnets, with just a small amount of rotational drag when both wheels are jacked up off the ground. Adjust the starwheels for a balance between both sides. 

A simple lab supply with 0-15v and about 3 amps is sufficient for testing, as well as checking or servicing the lights on the trailer when its not hooked up to a vehicle.

BTW, you don't need a separate variable voltage power supply. An electronic brake controller already is a pulse width modulated power supply. It's voltage setting is the reading when you slide the manual lever to full. 

LOL...yep, that's how I knew the brakes weren't working!  After a long downhill, I just felt how hot the drums were...and they weren't.   I'm in the process right now of disabling the self-adjusters; using a dremel to change the angle of the adjusting-star actuating plate edge so it can no longer engage. 

Tom

I will also grab the hubs, kick the tires, place my palm on the tread, and feel and smell for anything hot. I do this after nearly every highway run, when getting gas, taking a pee-break, whatever.

Of course, I've got a few million miles driving trucks. Comes with the territory. 

If one is much cooler than the other then something is wrong. I found the curb side brake to be much cooler. That side has longer wire lengths and more connectors so it takes less current. Once I rewired they were a lot closer to the same temperature. 

A good way to check electric trailer brakes is with a variable voltage power supply, but many dealers don't even seem to be aware of this.

Plus, if the seals leak, then the brake shoes can get contaminated, making one side 'grabby' or worse.

I like the irony with the Dexter 'Nev-R-Adjust' brakes...which, when translated, means, 'hard to keep them balanced'...(never adjusted)....

I had considered the possibility that the auto-adjust brake was the culprit also.  Your experience tells me that is a more likely cause.  The next time I work on the wheels, I will disable the auto-adjust feature, as the potential damage from that feature is much more a concern than the occasional minor manual adjustment hassle.

Tom

The previous owner may not have tightened the brakes too much. They are self-adjusting. I had the same thing happen with one side of our 179 where the (door side) wheel's brakes got very tight but the slide side's brakes did not. Likewise, I had a seal failure also on that side. The brakes were replaced and new bearings and seals installed at the same time as I had the axle replaced. 

I fully agree that the dealer was negligent by not checking the brakes before he sold the RPod to you.

Including the brake wiring.