My suggestion is to measure as GlueGuy says and then get the LRD one with the highest load rating that you have clearance for  Since you're getting new wheels too be sure to check the load rating on those, you're only as good as your weakest link. I got these, both tires and wheels rated for 2540 lbs. It also saves the mounting cost. 

Our F-150 is the 2015 "all aluminum" one, plus 4WD, plus the extended 157" wheelbase; all of which make it taller.

None-the-less, the basic rules for setting up the WDH still hold.

Tearless Tom, Fastway has their installation and set up instructions online here: https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/pdf/e2-round-bar-hitch-instructions.pdf

You should have been given a copy by your dealer.  

When the dealer set up our hitch, among other errors, they set the L brackets too far aft so that I had <3" of distance from the middle of the bracket to the end of the bar.  I moved it forward to have about the same distance as you ended up with.  The propane tank mount is a problem for getting the L brackets in the right place, but you should be able to get it close enough.  The other thing the dealer failed to do was to torque any of the bolts to the proper tightness.  Thankfully nothing happened before I caught it.

There may be a minor concern about how much is transferred to the trailer axle (the RP-179 axle is just adequate for a fully loaded RP-179). So it's theoretically possible to overload the R-pod axle, but you would still have to work on it a bit.

Also, our 2015 F-150 is a complete re-design of the truck (from prior years), and I think there is enough difference between the 2014 and the 2015 to make some minor rigging changes. 

Thanks you were a big help..  

I did find it curious that  with 2 washers and the L bracket in the position you use  vs 3 washers and the L bracket with 2 holes left under the frame (one hole lower than yours)  gave me the exact same front wheel height but I felt with 3 washers I was getting a bit more sway control.

Probable all in my head but then again maybe not?

Everything was set up as a generic install, Not at all my truck and trailer specific which is what I thought I was paying for.  The hitch was one notch or an inch to high.  The hardware that mounts the L bracket was not properly mounted to the frame as I could put a finger between the frame and the bottom bolt so the L bracket was shifting as it could not be tighten down enough to hold it stable like that.

I understand why they did it.  My Propane tank line was run under the right side to the external propane connection on the right side.  It was a easy fix. I had to remove x1 3/8 self tapping screw and relocate the line.   Just dealer being LAZY!

The brackets were also not the correct distance  from the hitch.  Also some washers lock washers were missing and a mixture of No-stop and nuts with lock washers were used.

So  I dropped the hitch height by one notch or about one inch.   I removed some washers. I ended up at 3. and my L bracket with 2 holes open below the frame.  I felt this gave me a good balance between sway control, while decreasing the up down bounce from the hitch being too high .  My front end height is currently 1/10 inch over sprung.  I can live with that.  I may experiment some more later but for now the ride is good and the sway seems to have been mostly eliminated and it tracks well. 

Thanks again for everyone input and help.  

The F-150 is way more than up to the task, and you could probably put as much or as little as the WDH could be set to. I think that you need to get "enough" tension to take advantage of the anti-sway capability of the E2 hitch.

I got a spare tire holder to put on the tongue of our 172 from Amazon.  It was a bolt on type that attached to one frame rail or the other.  I had no problem putting it on, but when I had to do a little sharp backing it got in the way.  I'd like to get a mounting system that would attach to both rails and hole the tire horizontally above the LP tank and batteries.  

Any ideas on where to look for one?

I plan on lowering  both the hitch and the L bracket to  the lowest position to lower the hitch height . Now debating on how many washers to use.  I understand that less transfer less weight to the front and as I am over-sprung  by about 0.4 inch with a full fresh water container.  By lowering the tongue I will be increasing the tongue weight so it may need slightly more adjustment. 

It is currently has 6 washers.  GlueGuy has 2,  Others 3 - 4.   I will try somewhere in that range.

Thanks for the help.

Likewise, the L brackets on the trailer are also all the way down. I guess that's the "top" holes, as the hang down. 

We have two really thick washers on the hitch head. 

I'll get you some pictures in the morning.

GlueGuy, or anyone with the E2 600/6000 system .Especially if you have a Ford F150  could you possible send or include some photos of your set up , including the washers and thickness,  and how many holes top/bottom for the "L "bracket.  

I picked it up today and like the design better but it is still not quite right.   I took it up to Bucee's again for some flat ground and a BBQ sandwich.

The measurements are pretty good but needs improvement.   As they set it up I am over sprung as I understand it.

My Unlaiden (truck only) front wheel measurement was  : 36.625

My Trailer only measurement was :                                     36.875

My Trailer with WDH Bars attached :                                   36.3125

So my target height as I understand it is: between :  36.625 and 36.75

My rear wheel is:

My Level trailer tongue height  is:         17.5

My trailer tongue height with WDH is     18.5

so I have a one inch upward tilt.

I have one hole left at the bottom of the hitch so if I drop it that should take care of the upward tilt.

And if I remove some washers. It has 6 now down to maybe 4 that should bring my front end up hopefully approx. 0.4 inch..

Is this right?

GlueGuy?

Anyone?