R-pod Owners Forum : Vampires and multimeters

Vampires and multimeters : Originally posted by GLBCamperI...

Fri, 11 Aug 2017 20:33:18 +0000

Author: pgoelz
Subject: 10477
Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 8:33pm

Originally posted by GLBCamper

I agree that I'm not seeing the mechanical correlation, but I've double checked my amp draw results and continue to get 2.4A on demand and no additional draw on standby. Sooo...?? Remember, the pump was making NO noise in standby mode before. It just sucked amps, overheated and tripped.

Yeah, and that is a problem because you have no visual or audible indication anything is wrong except possibly for noticing that the LPG LED is off.

As I recall, the pump in my 171 takes maybe 1-2 seconds to trip the pressure switch after I close the tap. If yours takes a lot longer, there might still be a problem. The only way I can think of to make sure it is fixed would be to dial the pressure up somewhat and make sure the pump still shuts off. Then dial it back down.

Paul

Vampires and multimeters : Originally posted by pgoelzHmmmm.......

Fri, 11 Aug 2017 15:34:32 +0000

Author: GLBCamper
Subject: 10477
Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 3:34pm

Originally posted by pgoelz

Hmmmm.... while that could certainly affect the overall flow, I'm not sure I can see how it would cause the pump to actually stall when you close the faucet. It might take a bit longer to build up pressure, but unless there was some weird way that increasing pressure moved the pump and kinked the line further, I'm not quite convinced. Yet ;)

Paul

I agree that I'm not seeing the mechanical correlation, but I've double checked my amp draw results and continue to get 2.4A on demand and no additional draw on standby. Sooo...?? Remember, the pump was making NO noise in standby mode before. It just sucked amps, overheated and tripped.

Vampires and multimeters : Hmmmm.... while that could certainly...

Fri, 11 Aug 2017 15:23:18 +0000

Author: pgoelz
Subject: 10477
Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 3:23pm

Hmmmm.... while that could certainly affect the overall flow, I'm not sure I can see how it would cause the pump to actually stall when you close the faucet. It might take a bit longer to build up pressure, but unless there was some weird way that increasing pressure moved the pump and kinked the line further, I'm not quite convinced. Yet ;)

Paul

Vampires and multimeters : SOLVED!!I was looking around...

Fri, 11 Aug 2017 14:50:45 +0000

Author: GLBCamper
Subject: 10477
Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 2:50pm

SOLVED!!

I was looking around the pump to see how hard it would be to replace and saw a big kink in the inlet (?) (strainer side) hose. Frankly, I can't believe I got any water pressure through that thing BUT now my amp draw on demand = 2.4 (over an amp less then before!) and no demand but switch on = 0.31 (my baseline!)

After an hour in standby mode the pump is cool to the touch, operates normally AND the LPGD light is no longer influenced by the pump switch.

(Surprisingly, my water pressure didn't improve, but it seems about what I expect from an RV system. Adequate.)

Vampires and multimeters : Originally posted by GLBCamperFinal(?)...

Fri, 11 Aug 2017 13:54:46 +0000

Author: pgoelz
Subject: 10477
Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 1:54pm

Originally posted by GLBCamper

Final(?) battery vs. pump tests.

I charged the batteries overnight and started this morning (after an hour for decay) @ 12.90.

First test per Paul, check voltage at all pump stages:

Switch on, no demand = 12.89

Faucet on it ticked down about 1/100th every few seconds to 12.78 until I shut off faucet, with the switch still on ("stalled?") it ticked back up at about the same rate, landing back at 12.90.

I double checked the amp draw this morning and got the same results. Demand = 3.5, No demand = 6+.

Also, even with a fully charged battery the LPGD light goes out when pump switch goes on. BUT does NOT when connected to shore power.

OK, not making sense again. If the pump running current is less than the pump stalled current, the battery voltage would not have risen in the stalled condition. So either we are missing something or the pump was NOT stalled. Hard to tell for sure unless you can measure current and voltage at the same time.

FACT: A stalled pump at 6A WILL discharge your batteries much faster than expected and COULD explain your overnight discharge issue. If the batteries have been discharged below 12V and held there by the water pump for some time, they could be damaged.

QUESTION: What is causing the pump to stall? So far we don't have enough information to know so all we can do is keep guessing.

DIAGNOSIS: Measure the current with the pump stalled (make sure it IS stalled) and then measure the battery voltage with the pump known to be still stalled. If the pump is stalled and the battery voltage is above 12V, either the pump or pressure switch are bad, or the pressure switch is mis-adjusted.

If you have a battery cutoff switch, place your ammeter across it and open the switch. This enables current measurement. With the pump stalled and drawing 6A, close the cutoff switch (bypassing the ammeter) and remove the ammeter. The pump will still be stalled since you did not interrupt power. Now switch the meter to DC volts and measure the battery voltage at the battery terminals. If above 12V, the problem is the pump or pressure switch. If below 12V, it is probably the battery.

Because your LPG detector LED goes off when the pump stalls, there is an outside chance the problem is due to insufficient wire size or a loose connection. To further troubleshoot that (after eliminating the pump and switch itself) will require measuring voltage at the pump and at the LPG detector.

Take it step by step and don't assume anything including battery health. The answer is in there and it should be simple to find it.

OOPS.... just read your post above more closely..... are you saying the LPG LED goes out when the pump switch is ON and the pump is NOT running and NOT stalled? If so, we have another mystery.

Paul

Vampires and multimeters : Final(?) battery vs. pump tests.I...

Fri, 11 Aug 2017 13:24:00 +0000

Author: GLBCamper
Subject: 10477
Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 1:24pm

Final(?) battery vs. pump tests.

I charged the batteries overnight and started this morning (after an hour for decay) @ 12.90.

First test per Paul, check voltage at all pump stages:

Switch on, no demand = 12.89

Faucet on it ticked down about 1/100th every few seconds to 12.78 until I shut off faucet, with the switch still on ("stalled?") it ticked back up at about the same rate, landing back at 12.90.

I double checked the amp draw this morning and got the same results. Demand = 3.5, No demand = 6+.

Also, even with a fully charged battery the LPGD light goes out when pump switch goes on. BUT does NOT when connected to shore power.

Vampires and multimeters : My guess is the pump is defective....

Fri, 11 Aug 2017 07:50:58 +0000

Author: CharlieM
Subject: 10477
Posted: 11 Aug 2017 at 7:50am

My guess is the pump is defective. Many RV pumps, like the ShurFlo series, are thermally protected. That means they will disconnect from the 12V source when they get too hot. When this occurs the input current will drop to zero. Until then the pump will continue to turn even if they can't reach the cutoff pressure. They should not seize up and not run. You should be able to hear and feel the pump running.

Be aware that dealers don't really know much but they want you to think they do. Their usual response is that everything is OK and please go away. Don't let them get away with that answer. You know there is something wrong with the pump and it probably needs replacing. Also be aware that, even though your camper may be out of warranty, many of the components carry longer manufacturer's warranties. Check it out in your manuals or on line.

Good luck and keep us informed. Your feedback helps us too

Vampires and multimeters : Originally posted by pgoelzWhile...

Thu, 10 Aug 2017 21:54:54 +0000

Author: GLBCamper
Subject: 10477
Posted: 10 Aug 2017 at 9:54pm

Originally posted by pgoelz

While all that is quite true (and probably the most likely cause) DO NOT overlook the possibility that the batteries are weak and the draw from the pump causes the battery voltage to sag to the point the pump cannot reach the cutoff pressure. Dead easy to diagnose.... measure the battery voltage with the pump off, running and then stalled. It should not change much.

Paul

I'm going to do this tomorrow, just to be sure. I'll let you know.

Vampires and multimeters : The manual for my pump says adjusting...

Thu, 10 Aug 2017 21:47:26 +0000

Author: GLBCamper
Subject: 10477
Posted: 10 Aug 2017 at 9:47pm

The manual for my pump says adjusting the pressure switch should only be done by a qualified technician, so I think I have reached the limit of my capabilities (or at least my desire.) I made a service appointment with the dealer. The soonest they can get me in is three weeks away, but that's OK. At least they won't have to start at square one with only the symptom of "something's draining my battery" and for that I thank everyone on this board. I'll post an update when I find out what they had to do. THANKS to all for not giving up on me! I learned a ton and hopefully others will, too.

Vampires and multimeters : Originally posted by CharlieMIt...

Thu, 10 Aug 2017 21:42:49 +0000

Author: pgoelz
Subject: 10477
Posted: 10 Aug 2017 at 9:42pm

Originally posted by CharlieM

It does seem you have zeroed in on the problem. For some reason the pump cannot reach the upper trip setting of the pressure switch. I assume you get adequate flow when the faucet is open, indicating no obstructions in the intake such as the strainer. Either the pump itself is weak or defective or the cutout switch is set too high or defective.

As for measuring the voltage at the pump, the easiest method is to use meter probes that pierce the wiring insulation. Failing that, you need to find a place where you can expose the wires as close to the pump as possible.

If the batteries are OK (the voltage remains nearly constant with the pump stalled) and you do not have the means to troubleshoot the pump, a trip to a dealer is in order. You have most likely identified the excessive drain.... now it should be a simple matter to fix it.

Paul

Vampires and multimeters : It does seem you have zeroed in...

Thu, 10 Aug 2017 19:43:29 +0000

Author: CharlieM
Subject: 10477
Posted: 10 Aug 2017 at 7:43pm

It does seem you have zeroed in on the problem. For some reason the pump cannot reach the upper trip setting of the pressure switch. I assume you get adequate flow when the faucet is open, indicating no obstructions in the intake such as the strainer. Either the pump itself is weak or defective or the cutout switch is set too high or defective. Determining which requires a pressure gauge on a faucet. The pressure switch, usually on top of the pump next to the power connection, is adjustable with an Allen wrench. Backing out the screw (CCW from the top) will decrease the cutoff pressure. Not knowing your exact camper I cannot help you much more. If the camper is still in warranty a dealer visit is in order. If not you might still take it by a dealer and have him test the pump assembly. Worst case a new pump a less than $100.

Vampires and multimeters : The pump did not make any noise...

Thu, 10 Aug 2017 18:20:20 +0000

Author: GLBCamper
Subject: 10477
Posted: 10 Aug 2017 at 6:20pm

The pump did not make any noise during the 45 minute test period when the switch was on with all faucets closed. It just sat there quietly and got hot until I turned on a faucet and it tripped. Once it cooled down it functioned "as normal" that is to say it sounded and operated normally, but drawing 3.6A with demand and 6A with faucets shut. A smoking gun??

The LPGD is definitely getting power, even when the WP switch is on, because the green light will blink indicating "warm up" mode, regardless of the switch position. (It blinks for several minutes every time I disconnect and reconnect the battery cutoff.) But if it is solid green, it goes off if I turn on the WP switch.

Vampires and multimeters : Sounds like we're making...

Thu, 10 Aug 2017 17:42:50 +0000

Author: CharlieM
Subject: 10477
Posted: 10 Aug 2017 at 5:42pm

Sounds like we're making progress. Definitely seems like a pump problem. The pump will draw current proportional to the pressure it is pumping against. With a faucet open the pump should be running but the pressure is something less than the cutoff pressure. When you close the faucet the pump should continue to run, increasing the system pressure until the upper trip point is reached. The current will increase as the pressure builds until the upper trip point is reached and the pump is disconnected. If the pump is unable to reach that upper trip pressure it will continue to run forever. SO, in your 45 minute experiment did the pump continue to run or just stop, sit, and heat up? It sounds like the latter, in which case it will get hot and maybe seize up. The upper trip point may be set too high or the pump may be defective. The trip pressure is adjustable with an Allen wrench. In either case the 6A load you see will definitely drain your battery as you observed. Six Amps for 24 hours is 144 AH which is more than 50% of the rated battery capacity. It should lower the measured voltage to less than 12.0V. Truth is beginning to emerge from the smoke and clouds.

The action of the LP detector sounds like low voltage. This could be a combination of weak/discharged battery and marginal wiring. We'll work that after we deal with the pump.

Vampires and multimeters : Weirder and weirder...I wanted...

Thu, 10 Aug 2017 16:28:11 +0000

Author: GLBCamper
Subject: 10477
Posted: 10 Aug 2017 at 4:28pm

Weirder and weirder...

I wanted to see how long it would stay at 6A+ and what would happen if I left the pump switch on with no demand (all faucets closed.)

After just 45 minutes the water pump was too hot to touch. I turned on a faucet and the LPGD beeped once and then the green power light came on. Draw at batteries 0.31 (baseline) BUT (of course) the pump would not run. I suspect if overheated and tripped and when it did the LPGD came back online.

I'll let it cool and see if it comes back or if it is fried.

How do I check it at the pump? As you noticed, if you are very specific I can do it, but vague instructions like "check it at the pump" are lost on me. Sorry.

Vampires and multimeters : Originally posted by GLBCamperNow...

Thu, 10 Aug 2017 15:26:10 +0000

Author: pgoelz
Subject: 10477
Posted: 10 Aug 2017 at 3:26pm

Originally posted by GLBCamper

Now the INTERESTING thing: The water pump. First, switch on but no demand 0.31 (the baseline.) Then with demand 3.45. BUT after I turned off the faucet with the switch still on it jumped to 6.45 and stayed there. When camping, I try to remember to turn off the switch when not in use, but if I forget that could really add up. The pump is cool to the touch, even with demand.

But even MORE INTERESTING is that I noticed that when the water pump switch is on, the green light power indicator on the LP Gas detector goes out. On/off. Off/on. They are connected?!?

Whoa, that IS interesting indeed! I would highly suspect something wrong with your water pump..... it should draw current when it is pumping but as soon as you close the tap and the pressure switch opens, it should stop altogether. My best guess is that your pressure switch is not opening when the tap is closed and the water pump either runs continuously or stalls against the pressure. Put the ammeter in series with just the pump and confirm.... the drain should be ZERO before AND AFTER it runs.

As for the LPG LED, can't say for sure. I wonder if it goes out if the voltage sags below some voltage. If it is tapped into the same feed as the water pump, I would look for under sized wiring or perhaps a loose connection.

Another possibility is that there is bad or undersized wiring somewhere between the battery and the water pump.... or the batteries themselves are bad. It may be that there is insufficient voltage to the pump and that it cannot pump the water system up far enough once a tap is closed to activate the pressure shutoff, so it keeps trying forever.

Go step by step..... measure the battery voltage at the battery terminals with the pump "stuck" drawing 6A.... does the voltage sag more than a couple tenths of a volt? If so, bad batteries. If not, check the voltage at the pump itself. If it more than (say) half a volt below the battery voltage with the pump "stuck" look for bad or undersized wiring somewhere.

Does the LPG LED go out when the pump runs when you are on shore power? That would tend to implicate your batteries.

We're getting somewhere....

Paul

Vampires and multimeters : I'm definitely not connected...

Thu, 10 Aug 2017 13:29:28 +0000

Author: GLBCamper
Subject: 10477
Posted: 10 Aug 2017 at 1:29pm

I'm definitely not connected to shore power.

It stabilized at 0.31 which, if you look at my original post is very close to the parasitic loads I already identified, so I'm not surprised. Here is my log from today:

Baseline 0.31 stable

+ fridge 0.86

- fridge + ALL interior LED lights 1.45 (When camping, I rarely use more than 1 for more than half hour)

- lights + furnace 3.29. (I couldn't get it to come on for long, hot today)

Now the INTERESTING thing: The water pump. First, switch on but no demand 0.31 (the baseline.) Then with demand 3.45. BUT after I turned off the faucet with the switch still on it jumped to 6.45 and stayed there. When camping, I try to remember to turn off the switch when not in use, but if I forget that could really add up. The pump is cool to the touch, even with demand.

But even MORE INTERESTING is that I noticed that when the water pump switch is on, the green light power indicator on the LP Gas detector goes out. On/off. Off/on. They are connected?!?

Vampires and multimeters : That degree of fluctuation is...

Thu, 10 Aug 2017 12:47:18 +0000

Author: CharlieM
Subject: 10477
Posted: 10 Aug 2017 at 12:47pm

That degree of fluctuation is unusual but could have several causes. Common LP detectors typically draw ~0.1. Electronic thermostats have some draw and control boards in fridges will draw something even if "off". If the fluctuation is rapid and random I'd suspect the meter itself. Inexpensive meters can be flaky at the low end of their ranges. If the fluctuation appears more regular it might really be in the trailer.

We are assuming shore power is disconnected but that's a good thought.

The meter in use has no AC current capability.

Vampires and multimeters : Originally posted by GLBCamperWith...

Thu, 10 Aug 2017 11:32:24 +0000

Author: pgoelz
Subject: 10477
Posted: 10 Aug 2017 at 11:32am

Originally posted by GLBCamper

With battery bypass OUT reading 0.00 (as expected)

With battery bypass IN and all systems except LPGD off, reading fluctuated wildly between 0.30 & 0.80 (again, I believe as expected. But is it normal to have it bounce around wildly?)

I will now start adding things beginning with the fridge and will update later.

Like I said, even my passive "leave it on for 3 days and see what happens to the voltage" hasn't replicated the rapid draw down that I experienced while camping, so hopefully this will produce results.

Without knowing exactly what is connected to the battery (including any loads you don't know about), I can't comment on whether a variable load of 300-800 mA is normal or not. Off the top of my head, I don't think so. But I don't know how your LPGD works.... it might be heating a small sensor element.

Were you by chance connected to shore power? Any chance the charge controller was providing a float charge? It is also remotely possible that if you were connected to shore power, there was some AC leakage into the battery circuit that was confusing your ammeter. Switch your meter from DC to to AC amps and see if you see anything.... should be zero. If it is non-zero, that could explain the fluctuation.

Paul

Vampires and multimeters : OK. Finally, we are getting somewhere!...

Thu, 10 Aug 2017 11:06:07 +0000

Author: GLBCamper
Subject: 10477
Posted: 10 Aug 2017 at 11:06am

OK. Finally, we are getting somewhere! No thanks to me and ALL thanks to you.

I followed the above instructions exactly. Here are my results.

With battery bypass OUT reading 0.00 (as expected)

With battery bypass IN and all systems except LPGD off, reading fluctuated wildly between 0.30 & 0.80 (again, I believe as expected. But is it normal to have it bounce around wildly?)

I will now start adding things beginning with the fridge and will update later.

Vampires and multimeters : Originally posted by GLBCamper I...

Thu, 10 Aug 2017 08:04:43 +0000

Author: pgoelz
Subject: 10477
Posted: 10 Aug 2017 at 8:04am

Originally posted by GLBCamper

I am using a CenTech multimeter model 98025. I have it set to DCV 20 and am touching the red lead to the positive on the battery with the positive line connected to it and the negative lead to the negative terminal on the other battery with the ground wire attached. Wrong? Here is my log: I'm not seeing a smoking gun yet.

Perhaps because there is none to find? It looks to me like your voltages imply (note that I said "imply") a fairly slow discharge after you burned off the surface charge. According to the discharge table I have, 12.65V is 100% charge. Assuming your meter is correctly calibrated, your batteries spent several days ABOVE that voltage. That would not be the case if there was any appreciable discharge current. And your voltages certainly do not show a full discharge overnight like I thought you initially were describing????

ONE MORE TIME..... merely measuring battery voltage DOES NOT help diagnose rapid battery discharge since we have no idea how healthy your batteries are. Too many variables in the equation. If you want to figure out what (if anything) is discharging your batteries MEASURE THE BATTERY CURRENT. At the batteries, and preferably between them, to eliminate any unexpected connections. Without that, all we can do is speculate. And speculation is not definitive.

Paul

Vampires and multimeters : Originally posted by GLBCamperHonestly...

Thu, 10 Aug 2017 00:36:41 +0000

Author: GlueGuy
Subject: 10477
Posted: 10 Aug 2017 at 12:36am

Originally posted by GLBCamper

Honestly I feel like an absolute idiot here, but I have a multimeter and not an ammeter, which should do the job, but I'm confused what you mean by "across the open battery cutoff."

In order to measure current, your meter must be in series with the batteries.

In your case, you have an easy way to do this. First, remove the wire/cable that runs between the two batteries. It will be connected to the (+) on one battery, and the (-) on the other battery.

Then put your meter into DCA (DC Amps) mode. based on what we've been seeing, you hopefully have a meter that can go to 20 amps (because I think that may be in the neighborhood of what your drain is). Set it to that mode (if it has it, or higher if necessary).

Now here is the tricky part. You want the meter to measure the flow of current. The meter will be polarity sensitive, so you want to connect the red (positive) lead to the (+) terminal on one battery, and the black (negative) lead to the (-) terminal on the battery. This is the same terminals that you removed the jumper in the first step.

At that point, your meter should be showing you the amps that are being drained. If your meter is not big enough, you may blow a fuse in the meter.

Vampires and multimeters : You are correctly measuring voltage...

Wed, 09 Aug 2017 23:55:19 +0000

Author: CharlieM
Subject: 10477
Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 11:55pm

You are correctly measuring voltage and they seem reasonable for what you're doing. What we need are current measurements. You should disconnect the jumper between your two batteries and insert the multimeter in place of the jumper. With the jumper disconnected :

Plug the red test lead into the jack marked 10A on the multimeter
Plug the black test lead into the jack marked COM on the multimeter.
Set the multimeter range selector switch to 10A on the DCA section of the meter switch.
This is all described on page 5 of your instruction manual under "DC Current Measurements".
Be very careful with the following steps. An error here can destroy your multimeter.
Connect the positive (red) lead of the meter to the positive terminal of the battery that has its negative terminal connected to ground.
Connect the negative (black) lead of the meter to the negative of the battery that has its positive terminal connected to the camper.

The meter should read positive values for current flowing out (discharge) of the battery and negative values for current flowing into (charging) the battery. Start with everything off and the battery disconnect switch in the disconnected position. It should read zero. With everything off in the camper, close the disconnect switch and you should see a small value much less than 1A. Continue turning things on and recording the readings. Let us know what you find.

Vampires and multimeters : I am using a CenTech multimeter...

Wed, 09 Aug 2017 23:19:08 +0000

Author: GLBCamper
Subject: 10477
Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 11:19pm

I am using a CenTech multimeter model 98025. I have it set to DCV 20 and am touching the red lead to the positive on the battery with the positive line connected to it and the negative lead to the negative terminal on the other battery with the ground wire attached. Wrong? Here is my log: I'm not seeing a smoking gun yet.

7/31 @ 10:00am 12.86 w/battery cutoff

8/1 @ 10:00am 12.87

8/2 @ 10:00am 12.83

8/3 @ 10:30am 12.81 Plugged in cutoff switch. Everything off except LPGas Detector.

8/4 @ 9:30am 12.60

8/4 @ 12:00pm ran power jack several times (bummer for my tests, but the neighbor was spray painting his house and I had to move it.)

8/5 @ 9:15am 12.51

8/6 @ 10:45am 12.45

8/7 @ 9:45am 12.42

8/7 @ 10:10am plugged into 30A shore power

8/8 @ 9:00am unplugged from shore power

8/8 @ 9:45am 13.00

8/8 @ 2:43pm 12.93 turned on fridge on propane

8/9 @ 10:00am 12.60

8/9 @ 3:20pm 12.47

Vampires and multimeters : As Paul says, until we get some...

Wed, 09 Aug 2017 20:48:07 +0000

Author: CharlieM
Subject: 10477
Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 8:48pm

As Paul says, until we get some real current measurements we are just shooting in the dark with no sights. Putting the ammeter across the open battery disconnect switch will measure the current drawn from the battery but I'd rather you measure directly at the batteries. Sometimes loads are connected before the disco switch so, to be sure, measurements should be made right at the battery. With two GC2s in series the easiest method is to disconnect the jumper between the two batteries and connect the ammeter in place of the jumper.

Most multimeters have a DC current function. It should be labeled DC Amperes, DC Amps, or DC current. Typical ranges will be 10A or 20A. If you'll tell me the make and model of your multimeter I'll look it up and help you with it.

Vampires and multimeters : Originally posted by pgoelzPut...

Wed, 09 Aug 2017 18:00:19 +0000

Author: GLBCamper
Subject: 10477
Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 6:00pm

Originally posted by pgoelz

Put an ammeter across the open battery cutoff and measure the current in camping mode. That will tell you in seconds whether you have a parasitic drain or a battery issue.

Paul

Honestly I feel like an absolute idiot here, but I have a multimeter and not an ammeter, which should do the job, but I'm confused what you mean by "across the open battery cutoff."

It's been parked since July 29th but I plugged it into 30A on August 7th for 24hrs. Charge after being unplugged for 6 hours to allow for decay was 12.93.

Vampires and multimeters : Originally posted by furpod Originally...

Wed, 09 Aug 2017 17:50:17 +0000

Author: GLBCamper
Subject: 10477
Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 5:50pm

Originally posted by furpod

Originally posted by GLBCamper

OK, Idiot question, but can the converter draw amps when not connected to shore power? I thought the converter served only to convert AC (shore power) to DC (to charge the batteries.) But can, or does, it draw amps or serve any purpose when NOT on shore power?

The converter/charger only works, and is only energized when 120v is present. It does not do anything, nor is it energized, just like everything else 120v when 120v is not present.

I thunked right!

Vampires and multimeters : Originally posted by GLBCamperOK,...

Wed, 09 Aug 2017 17:48:33 +0000

Author: furpod
Subject: 10477
Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 5:48pm

The converter/charger only works, and is only energized when 120v is present. It does not do anything, nor is it energized, just like everything else 120v when 120v is not present.

Vampires and multimeters : Originally posted by GLBCamperMy...

Wed, 09 Aug 2017 17:29:17 +0000

Author: pgoelz
Subject: 10477
Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 5:29pm

Originally posted by GLBCamper

My batteries are two 6v ACDelco GC2-107. I'm not sure what that means in terms of group or amp hours.

I only turn the water pump switch on when needed so it's not coming on periodically due to pressure loss. It seems to be working normally.

The unit has been in my driveway for over a week. I just went and measured the brakes using a laser thermometer and the temp was 95 degrees (ambient temp 91 is degrees.) Pin is not pulled.

OK, so we're not talking about an Rpod. In that case, I don't know what specific questions to ask about installed equipment, but I'd be happy to keep trying. But without some specific current consumption measurements at the battery, we're just taking pot shots in the dark. Put an ammeter across the open battery cutoff and measure the current in camping mode. That will tell you in seconds whether you have a parasitic drain or a battery issue.

I can't find an exact match for that battery but it LOOKS like it is a 230AH golf cart battery. So plenty of capacity if that is what they are and they are healthy. A big IF. IF the batteries are healthy and fully charged, anything that can drain them overnight is drawing a LOT of power and almost certainly will either make noise or get hot.

If the unit has been in the driveway for a week, has the battery been connected all that time? What was the voltage before / after? What loads were connected? And was the brake system connected as well?

Paul

Vampires and multimeters : OK, Idiot question, but can the...

Wed, 09 Aug 2017 17:24:38 +0000

Author: GLBCamper
Subject: 10477
Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 5:24pm

OK, Idiot question, but can the converter draw amps when not connected to shore power? I thought the converter served only to convert AC (shore power) to DC (to charge the batteries.) But can, or does, it draw amps or serve any purpose when NOT on shore power?

Vampires and multimeters : Boy, those are obscure batteries....

Wed, 09 Aug 2017 16:50:26 +0000

Author: GlueGuy
Subject: 10477
Posted: 09 Aug 2017 at 4:50pm

Boy, those are obscure batteries. Looked all over the place to get a 20 hour rate in amp-hours. I "think" I found them, and they are 208 AH. That gives you approximately 1,248 watt-hours for one, or 2,496 watt-hours for both batteries (100% discharge). If they are really deep cycle, then you can safely discharge them 50%, or 1,248 watt-hours.

Assuming your parasitic load is 2 watts, that should give you over 3 weeks usage. That ain't what you got.

If you're discharging in 24 hours, then you have something in the neighborhood of a 20 amp load. Things should be getting HOT, and I mean HOT!