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Safety chain reattachment

Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=9224
Printed Date: 05 May 2024 at 10:20pm
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Topic: Safety chain reattachment
Posted By: TheBum
Subject: Safety chain reattachment
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 10:02am
The bolts securing the safety chains to the A-frame on our 179 tore through the edge of the holes where they were secured, so the last time we had to tow, we had to wrap the chain around the A-frame. We were surprised to discover that the chains were mounted on a steel plate welded to the A-frame that's probably only 1/2" thick. We don't know if someone tried unsuccessfully to steal the Pod or if it happened the few times the chains got caught in the tongue jack.

Anyway, has anyone had to do safety chain reattachment? If so, what did you do?




Replies:
Posted By: M&M
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 2:33pm
Good Afternoon, The same thing happened to us. We had one bolt rip thru completely and the other darn near. I believe that in my case it was chain getting caught on the jack. We had a guy at Camping World bend it back up as good as he could but I'd love to hear a better, more permanent solution...


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2017 179 "Big Sexy"
2012 Honda Pilot


Posted By: john in idaho
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 4:49pm
Does it catch on the jack because it wasn't wound all the way up?  Or was there too much slack in the chains?


Posted By: TheBum
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 5:00pm
A link would catch on the end of the bolt going through the flip foot. We haven't had any issues since I replaced the bolt with a Grade 9 bolt after it broke, but the damage was probably already done.

I've considered running bolts all the way through the A-frame on each side and attaching the chain under washers under the bolt heads on the inner surface. That would be more secure than running a self tapping screw into only one surface of the A-frame, but I don't know if it would seriously compromise the strength of the A-frame.


Posted By: john in idaho
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2017 at 10:07pm
Maybe the flip foot is the problem.  If you leave it attached to the trailer while underway.  I have a wheel that I attach to the post with a clevis pin, and I always take the wheel off and stow it when driving.  I have a "dog dish" basin that I set the wheel in when parked, and it keeps the trailer from rolling, in addition to chalks - boards - behind or in front of the main wheels.  The post is cranked all the way up - yes it takes a lot of cranks on the handle.  I like the wheel because my barn has a smooth concrete floor.


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2017 at 3:35pm
Bum,

I looked at mine today, they are attached to an A frame bracket that is welded on. The bracket also serves as the bottom bracket for the jack. The safety chains are held in place by what appears to be carriage bolt(s) with washers. I would have no issue with hardened bolts thru the Aframe with washers and lock nuts. I'm going to look at this a bit more as the bracket didn't see sufficient to hold onto the trailer if it left the hitch. Maybe more to follow.

-------------
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: TheBum
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 10:45am
Do you think 3/8" bolts would be big enough, or should I go to 1/2"?


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 1:15pm
I will go with 3/8.,, Thru frame with large flat washers and locks.

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Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2017 at 1:51pm
Bum,

Starting project tomorrow, believe I am going with 3/8" stainless eye bolts, with large heavy 3/8" washers and lock nuts. Will mount through frame, close to original attaching points. Need to look at how I will attach chain(s) to eyebolts. Several ideas here. Our Lowes has a good choice of attaching hardware.

-------------
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: TheBum
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2017 at 10:10am
The old bolts were 3/8" and the A-frame is just a hair over 2" thick, so I picked up a couple of 3" long Grade 8 3/8"-16 yellow zinc bolts, washers, and lock washers at Home Depot last night. Unfortunately, they were out of the Grade 8 nuts, but Lowe's across the street has them, according to the website.


Posted By: john in idaho
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2017 at 2:56pm
there was a previous post, but I can't recall the title, that mentioned a galvanic corrosion between stainless and regular steel.


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 20 Jan 2017 at 4:37pm
Bum,

I finished mine today. Used 3 1/2 Grade 8 bolts through the frame about 7 inches back on frame rail, even with the bottom jack plate. My chain was one piece, and I had to cut out the carriage bolts which were bent and tac welded so nuts wouldn't loosen. Now bolted thru frame. I feel better.

-------------
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."


Posted By: TheBum
Date Posted: 21 Jan 2017 at 8:13pm
I mostly got mine done this afternoon. I still need to torque down the nuts (I didn't have my torque wrench with me), but here are photos of the project thus far. I left the bolts in place and simply anchored the next link out on each side. The chains were hanging rather low anyway, so this should help with that too.

http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/Alan_Somers/media/Mobile%20Uploads/3940B5CC-67CF-4E6A-8760-23EDDFFF4836_zpshgddpmna.jpg.html">

http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/Alan_Somers/media/Mobile%20Uploads/C9520778-709A-478B-9904-B0B20C9DA1EC_zpstg7wvn5t.jpg.html">


Posted By: JandL
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2017 at 9:51am
I would recommend using a Nylock nut, it's not likely to loosen up. The nut is on the under side of the coupler and will not be easily to keep an eye on to make sure it does not loosen up. You also should try to add more washers to the back side of the chain where it rest against the coupler, right now it is at an angle. You want a flat surface for the nut to bolt up to.

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JandL
2013 Honda Ridgeline
2012 177
2 Paynes in a Pod


Posted By: TheBum
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2017 at 3:30pm
I don't have a local source for Grade 8 nylock nuts or else I might have used them. After torqueing down the nuts, I have enough threads for probably two more washers, which I may add. I'd have to get a little longer bolts to add washers and change over to nylocks; I don't really think the nylocks are necessary.


Posted By: mcarter
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2017 at 3:52pm
Think you're good Bum, I went with 3 1/2 bolts, some heavy duty washers. Same concept as yours.

-------------
Mike Carter
2015 178
" I had the right to remain silent, I just didn't have the ability."



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