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Refrigerator current draw

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Topic: Refrigerator current draw
Posted By: JandL
Subject: Refrigerator current draw
Date Posted: 10 Jun 2016 at 10:00pm
I finally got around to reconfirming the DC current draw on my Dometic RM8501 refrigerator while running on propane. I could not get the fans to turn on to get an actual fan current measurement. It’s pretty cool outside today. The specification on the fan is .32 amps. They are controlled by a temperature switch located on the condenser tube at the top of the refrigerator so it has to get warm before they turn on, so very intermittent. The measurement I got when I turn on the refrigerator was .10 - .12 amps (100-120 mA), that is the current the electronic power module draws and the gas valve draws. The specifications on the Gas Valve are it operates at 1.3V – 1.5 V DC, .033 amps (33 mA). I have been talking these measurements because I run a single group 31 battery so I only have about 25 – 30 amps to use to get to a 75% state of charge. If I had two GC2 6 volt batteries I would have close to 100 amps to use to get to a 50% state of charge. So far I have not had a big problem; it helps to have 200 watts of solar to charge the battery back to 100%.

Metter hook up


GV 100 gas valve


Temp controlled cooling fans


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JandL
2013 Honda Ridgeline
2012 177
2 Paynes in a Pod



Replies:
Posted By: Olddawgsrule
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 11:04am
Can you talk Duty Cycle or Daily power consumption?

I would believe these numbers are not constant but as the duty cycle happens.


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Posted By: JandL
Date Posted: 03 Dec 2017 at 11:14am
The fans only run when it gets hot enough for the temp switch to come on. If the outside temperature is low the fan may never come on. When I was doing my current measurement the fans never came on. If it hot outside the fans will come on for short periods of time. The only way your going to get a daily power consumption is to hook up a data logger

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JandL
2013 Honda Ridgeline
2012 177
2 Paynes in a Pod



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