Solar on Roof
Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Reviews and General Information
Forum Discription: Find r-pod reviews and new product announcements here
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=7366
Printed Date: 03 May 2024 at 2:05am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Solar on Roof
Posted By: snorris
Subject: Solar on Roof
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2016 at 5:13pm
| Is there any way to mount panels on the roof? Yakama or Thule racks? |
Replies:
Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2016 at 5:49pm
|
A couple people have done it. It isn't easy. Or clean. There just isn't a lot of free space up there. Truthfully, portable/folding panel sets really are the best route. Allows the pod itself to be in the shade, helping to keep it cool, and panels in the sun, charging the batteries. ------------- |
Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2016 at 5:57pm
|
Agree. Have met with a number of podders on our vacations and have never seen one mounted on the unit. They prefer to camp in shade, if available, and put their solar collector, obviously in the sun. I would not want any more 'stuff' on my 177, only more stuff to vibrate and loosen and weaken the fiberglass skin as you travel down the road. My 3 cents worth.
------------- God's pod '11 model 177 '17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake "...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free." |
Posted By: snorris
Date Posted: 17 Jan 2016 at 7:05pm
Thanks everyone. Made my decision to stay portable. 
|
Posted By: sailor323
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2016 at 11:17am
|
It was relatively easy to install 2 panels on the roof. I installed 2 140 watt panels. My panels are 26” X 56” I put one behind the AC and one in front. The one in front is angled a little bit to accommodate the curvature of the roof. The rear panel is mounted using the Z shaped panel mounts available from Amazon. Because of the curvature I had to manufacture brackets from aluminum angle from Lowe’s. The brackets are attached to the roof with 3M VHB 4950 double sided tape (Amazon) (Thanks Floyd Stewart) I ran the wire from the panels to the battery as follows: Each panel is wired to a PVC outdoor junction box via Liquidtite conduit. I drilled a hole in the back of the Junction Box and through the roof of the Pod. The JB is attached to the roof with 3M 5200 adhesive sealant. You cold also use 3M 4200. I drilled a hole through the roof into the void that runs next to lavatory vent and behind the lavatory. The wire is routed through that void and the void that is between the wall in the cabinet and the wall where the Pod’s slide switch and the voltage/tank fill indicators are located. (The panel inside the cabinet is easily removed) The wires connect there to the charge controller. Then the wires from the controller are routed back to the void behind the lavatory and down behind the Pod’s fuse/breaker box. At that point, I took advantage of the wire pass through in the floor and ran the wires through the floor and spliced into the Zamp wires which go to the battery. At the battery I put an inline fuse (15 Amps, may have to up that to 20 Amps) I used 10 ga THHN wire throughout. The Zamp wires are located in the flexible conduit on the bottom of the right side of the Pod. They share space with the cables that run between the fuse box and the battery. I mounted the controller on the Pod wall where the voltage/tank fill indicators are. I have a Blue Sky 2512 controller. A bit pricey, but there are much less expensive ones on the market. I plan to install a Xantrex battery monitor as soon as it arrives—back ordered. I got the panels, controller and monitor from https://www.altestore.com/store/ - https://www.altestore.com/store/ I bought the AlltE panel. It's their proprietary brand. Normally, I would have steered away from a proprietary brand, but I've dealt with this company before and think I can trust them. Otherwise, I'd recommend the Kyocera panels. I have them on our boat and they have been very reliable. Panels, $230 each and the controller $190 (much less expensive controllers available) This install is on a 179. Similar voids and routing possibilities exist on other models.
|
Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2016 at 11:35am
|
Doing the math you have $ 650 invested thus far. How long do you figure it will take for the break-even payback on your investment? Very nice job BTW ! ------------- God's pod '11 model 177 '17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake "...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free." |
Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 18 Jan 2016 at 3:17pm
|
Very clean install, very nice work. ------------- Cliff & Raelynn Ranger 4.0/178 (1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity) |
Posted By: sailor323
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2016 at 9:30am
Thank you. Like the pod itself, this mod is not an investment and there is no break even point. The solar panels make it possible to go long periods of time without plugging in. |
Posted By: jato
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2016 at 9:34am
|
Are you charging 2 deep cycle 6v or 1 or 2 marine 12v batteries? Also, how long do you estimate it will take to bring either of the above to full charge if you are say at 50% of full charge when you begin? I find this very interesting. Thanks.
------------- God's pod '11 model 177 '17 Ford F-150 4WD 3.5 Ecoboost Jim and Diane by beautiful Torch Lake "...and you will know the Truth and the Truth will set you free." |
Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2016 at 12:11pm
|
If you mount on a roof, with the possibility of shading on one panel but not the other, I would investigate wiring in parallel or using two charge controllers. It takes very little shading from an antenna or the A/C before the entire panel's output drops off. ------------- Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual 
|
Posted By: sailor323
Date Posted: 19 Jan 2016 at 3:00pm
PV output depends entirely on ensolation. Under ideal conditions, the 2 panels should deliver about 23 amps. However, I would count on much less than ideal conditions. I guess I could count on about 15 amps. Over a 6 hour day, that would be about 90 amp hours, which represents a bit less than 50% SOC of the 2 6v golf cart batteries. I know from experience, running a refrigerator and a freezer, water pump, assorted lights and occasional appliances that 2 135 watt panels are sufficient to keep the 2 group 27 marine batteries (storage capacity about 200 amp hours, similar to 2 golf cart batteries) on my boat fully charged. |
Posted By: M0tl3y
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2016 at 12:07am
I mounted fixed solar on my 178. See the attached install I put together. It's not for everyone, I listed the various controversies with fixed solar panels. But it's up to the individual and their taste for portable panels, fixed, or none at all. I'm sure that whatever you pick you'll make it work for you. Enjoy uploads/3251/Fixed_Solar_Install_Forest_River_R-Pod_178_-_Compressed.pdf - uploads/3251/Fixed_Solar_Install_Forest_River_R-Pod_178_-_Compressed.pdf ------------- The 178 club |
Posted By: funks
Date Posted: 25 Jan 2016 at 10:04am
| Nice Job Thank You for the Info |
Posted By: TroutPod
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 1:40pm
|
sailor323 - Nice solar set up! I have been on the fence about mounting panels on the roof of my 179 or just going with a portable system. My main hang up is that the portable system will allow me to get the panel in some direct sunlight pretty much wherever I camp. I don't want to feel like I have to position or camp in a certain spot to get roof mounted panels in decent sunlight.
If I went with a mounted system I would be looking at 300-360 watts on the roof, and probably doing the 24 volt wiring to the charge controller to help with voltage drop. If I went with a portable set up I would probably be limited to 80-140 watts due to storage and transportation alone. Can you tell me how your system handles in shady spots? Also, are your panels wired for 12 volt or 24 volt output to the charge controller? Also, maybe it is a wash with 80-140 watts (portable) in direct sunlight versus 300-360 watts (mounted) in partial shade sometimes? What are your thoughts? |
Posted By: M0tl3y
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 3:08pm
|
My opinion, with my fixed solar install, is that I'll still park in the best spot (shady or not) for my trailer and I'll deal with the lower sunlight levels. I believe it evens out, or is even better, in the long run to stick with fixed. My reasons are: - Since I never put the panels away, they're always keeping the batteries charging, even if it's not optimal sunshine. I also don't have to hook up to shore power when I get home, or once-a-month in the off-season, to keep the batteries charged. - I've talked with people that use portable and they get nervous about theft, so unless they're in camp, they usually hide them. I am usually doing something away from camp (hiking, site seeing, whatever) by 10AM until late afternoon (optimal sunshine time). It doesn't make sense to put them away during this time but, as people note, if you leave them out, you risk theft. I don't want to have to worry about it. - To your point, most portable solar is in the 100W range because of size/weight convenience. With fixed solar you can easily have 200W, up to about 400W, on a R-pod roof, which compensates for indirect sunshine. - My number one reason:I'm generally lazy overall. I just don't want to bother/worry about optimal sunshine and I want to come/go without the hassle when I camp. When I'm home, I don't have to plug in just to "top off the batteries". After I did my install, the charger/panels take care of the batteries for me. A lot of this really depends on personal preference. Some people really like optimizing the sun hitting their panels, and for them, fixed solar would drive them nuts. For me, it drives me nuts to have something else to drag around camp, or worry about theft. To each his own. ------------- The 178 club |
Posted By: TroutPod
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 3:21pm
|
Those are good points, and I had forgotten about some of the stuff I've read about people worrying about theft - since I'm not in that position (yet) it hasn't really been a consideration. How would you say your set up works when you are parked in a shady spot? Is it still charging sufficiently?
|
Posted By: sailor323
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 6:28pm
|
My set up is for 2 140 watt panels. Beware that larger panels cannot be shipped UPS and must be shipped truck freight $$$$$$. There is a good video about the effect of shade on voltage and current at this site https://www.altestore.com/store/solar-panels-c541/ Shading dramatically affects the current output of the panel while minimally affecting the voltage output. While a shaded panel might produce sufficient amps to keep a well charged battery topped up, it will not charge a discharged battery. Also, keep in mind that panels are made of multiple solar cells and the way those cells are wired has an impact on susceptibility to shading. BTW, the folks at altE are very good to deal with. I've bought several panels from them along with associated equipment. They have a 100 watt panel for $189. 2 of them could be hinged together to make a suitcase thing that compares favorably to thee Zamp 200 watt set up. Of course, you do have to add in the cost of a controller and wiring |
Posted By: JandL
Date Posted: 24 Feb 2016 at 9:51pm
I posted pictures on my removable roof mounted solar panel. I have only one panel but there is enough room to get 2 up there. Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks - List Your Mods - Posted: 02 Aug 2015 (Page 39)
 ------------- JandL 2013 Honda Ridgeline 2012 177 2 Paynes in a Pod |
Posted By: sailor323
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2016 at 11:08am
| JandL, very nice idea for a non permanent installation |
Posted By: M0tl3y
Date Posted: 25 Feb 2016 at 5:39pm
I agree with Sailor123 that shading has quite an effect on the panel output. To add to the debate, you also need to consider the controller, length of wiring, and gauge of wiring. The PWM controller on most installations is, at best, 90% efficient. If using portable solar you're guaranteed to have a 30' minimum (if using the builtin connection), and as much as 50' of small-ish gauge wire. So plan on 200W of portable panel being effectively 160-ish Watts, at the battery, of value. With a fixed install you can install quite heavy gauge or 10'-15' length and use an MPPT controller and get about 96% efficiency at the battery, or ~192W out of 200W panels. As you can see, solar is finicky, and there's a lot of factors against getting the published rating of any given setup. My personal mantra, going into solar, was to be happy with half. I installed 200W because 100W is good enough to keep me happy. ------------- The 178 club |
Posted By: garyd
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 3:52pm
|
im trying the same modification to my new 179 could you explain how you took off the inside cabinet panel and top to drill through the roof. i looked at it and it seemed that the shelf, drawers, etc need to be removed as the panel looks to run the full height of the cabinet. Im trying not to destroy the inside if i can help it. also why not run wires down the vent stack instead of hole in roof ------------- gary |
Posted By: Leo B
Date Posted: 01 Apr 2018 at 4:26pm
|
I am curious also, have a 179 and looking for ideas with the solar! ------------- Leo & Melissa Bachand 2017 Ford F150 2021 Vista Cruiser 19 csk Previously owned 2015 Rpod 179 2010 Rpod 171 |
Posted By: Olddawgsrule
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 3:50pm
|
I keep watching prices and see you can go flexible for $1 a watt, if you can wait the delivery time. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-100W-Mono-Flexible-Solar-Panel-Module-with-3-in-1-Quick-Connectors-and-Extended-Cables/32846491923.html?spm=2114.search0204.3.133.67043344kvgXgr&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10130_5722815_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10546_10340_5722915_10548_10341_10545_5722615_10697_10696_10084_10083_10618_10307_5722715_10059_10534_100031_10103_441_10624_10623_10622_5722515_10621_10620,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5_ppcChannel&algo_expid=516f13f4-b861-4823-9dfd-68d7cf9f2ca5-21&algo_pvid=516f13f4-b861-4823-9dfd-68d7cf9f2ca5&transAbTest=ae803_2&priceBeautifyAB=0 - http://www.aliexpress.com/item/3-100W-Mono-Flexible-Solar-Panel-Module-with-3-in-1-Quick-Connectors-and-Extended-Cables/32846491923.html?spm=2114.search0204.3.133.67043344kvgXgr&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10130_5722815_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10546_10340_5722915_10548_10341_10545_5722615_10697_10696_10084_10083_10618_10307_5722715_10059_10534_100031_10103_441_10624_10623_10622_5722515_10621_10620,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_5_ppcChannel&algo_expid=516f13f4-b861-4823-9dfd-68d7cf9f2ca5-21&algo_pvid=516f13f4-b861-4823-9dfd-68d7cf9f2ca5&transAbTest=ae803_2&priceBeautifyAB=0 The kicker here is the VAT or Duty imposed. Could be as much as 30% (12-30% range right now). Even at 30% that's still only $1.35 a watt. Still not bad for flexible. This you can glue down on the unit. Conforms to the unit. If I was to mount permanently, I see this as the way I would head. I'll wait till November and the sales out of China. Also let the dust settle on the 'new' tariff's out there. Besides I need to test out my 130's and see where I land with that. As my wife says... "One step at a time please.." ------------- https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJduGeZNFgtptH67leItRFQ - Byways no Highways 2017 Tacoma http://tnttt.com/viewtopic.php?f=55&t=72408 - Truck Camper Build 2004 F150 My Overlander |
Posted By: lostagain
Date Posted: 02 Apr 2018 at 9:39pm
|
We have a flexible 100W solar panel that I can lay on the roof of our Pod [front or back ends]. It has grommets at each corner and i attached cords so I could securely tie it down. I put little boat line cleats along the bottom of the side walls and use them to secure the panel so it won't blow off. It's stayed on quite well even in 20 mph winds. I also put the cleats on the bottom edge of our camper shell so I can put it on the truck if the trailer is in the shade. So far it works quite nicely. The big drawback is that it's easy to steal, so we have to be a little careful about when we set it up. ------------- Never leave footprints behind. Fred & Maria Kearney Sonoma 167RB Our Pod 172 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 2.7 EcoBoost |
Posted By: Don Halas
Date Posted: 17 Apr 2018 at 11:20am
|
I have a flexible 100watt solar panel that I mount on the front of the pod with Velcro. It cost about $180 from Amazon.
I am using the most secure Velcro brand tape they sell and it is stuck to the trailer with USB tape. I run the Velcro around the entire perimeter of the panel. First time out I also secured the panel through the front center grommet to the hitch with rope. We had no issues travelling with it. Second time I was more confident of the ability of the Velcro and didn't use the tie down. About 1/2 hour from home I saw the panel in my rear view mirror had blown off. So, I replaced the panel and have abandoned hopes of travelling with the panel outside. Instead it rides inside the trailer behind the couch cushion. I can add a second panel if need be through the solar port at the back, but I don't expect that will ever be necessary. There were pictures of my installation on this site, but I believe they were all removed when they changed servers about a year ago. |
Posted By: Ghosthawk
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2018 at 7:10am
|
Looking at those myself. I have pretty much decideded to buy 2. A One will be mounted on the roof using the grommets. Exactly how I have not yet worked out. But I will. B Second one will probably be kept loose in the TV so it can be propped in convenient location as needed. Murphy will always rear his ugly head if you do not plan for him. So belt and suspenders all the way. Or a piece of paracord between 2 belt loops. Preppers have a saying, "One is none, two is one" Any one system can fail. If that happens, your without. Two systems means redundancy. Unlikely both will fail. But if in doubt, there is always 3. My favorite saying though is pretty simple. "Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance". Velcro is fine when parked, but wind at 50 + MPH is a wicked thing. |
Posted By: Don Halas
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2018 at 10:06am
|
If I added the second panel it would definitely be the suitcase variety. I wouldn't need a charge controller since I've already got one big enough to handle another panel.
I'd plan on having a cable of about 10'-20' to allow flexibility of where I placed it outside. It would run through the port on the back of the pod. But, unless our style of camping changes significantly I don't see a need for it. |
Posted By: offgrid
Date Posted: 02 Oct 2018 at 7:59am
|
I know this is an older thread but just to clear up some misconceptions on solar system design I see here I'd like to add a couple of comments. First, a 100 (or 200 or whatever) watt solar module essentially never produces 100 (or 200) watts. Why? Because solar modules are tested at 25C (77F) in a flash tester in a conditioned factory at an irradiance of 1000 watts per meter squared, aka "1 sun". That is what is called STC (standard test conditions). You can certainly get the 1000 w/m2 in the wild, perhaps a little more on a very sunny clear day with the solar module directly facing the sun. But, unless it is freezing out you won't get the 25C module temperature. The solar module will heat up in the sun and the output is reduced. On a 25C (77F) day the module will typically be at about 55C (131F) and output will be reduced by around 15%. This reduction in output comes as reduced voltage, current output actually goes up just slightly. This is why modules designed for 12V battery charging typically have a max power voltage (Vmp on your data sheet) of around 17-18V, so they can still charge batteries effectively on hot days even though 13.6-14.4V is as high as you ever want to charge a lead acid battery. An MPPT charger will not get around this voltage drop with temperature. That's just basic semiconductor device physics. The MPPT charger will only help with wasting extra solar module voltage you can't otherwise use, especially on cooler days. But if you're planning your system for summer use the 15% will be there even with an MPPT controller, and more for hot locations. If you're using a PWM controller, your losses are going to be more like 20% because of the wasted voltage. The easiest way to determine what you can expect to get from a solar/battery system is to to look up the max power current (Imp on your data sheet), and multiply that by the sun hours for your location, time of year, and panel orientation. That will give you the average daily amp hours you can expect to get for your 12V electrical loads, barring any shading or dirt accumulation on your solar array. There is a nice calculator for sun hours here: http://solarelectricityhandbook.com/solar-irradiance.html Second, the energy available to your loads from the battery will be delivered at about 12V, even though the battery will charge at around 13.6V. So, you have an energy loss in the battery as well as the solar modules. If you work in amp hours these losses will be taken into account but if you want to work in watts you'll need to derate your system for battery voltage losses by about 12/13.6 or about 12%. So, your total derates starting from solar module nameplate watts to delivered load watts will be around 25-30%, maybe more for a hotter climate. None of this should stop you from going with solar, its so cheap now that nothing can compete with it as long as you have good solar access. Just be realistic about what you can expect to get from a given size solar/battery system. ------------- 1994 Chinook Concourse 1995 RV6A Experimental Aircraft 2015 Rpod 179 - sold |