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ZAMP wiring

Printed From: R-pod Owners Forum
Category: R-pod Discussion Forums
Forum Name: Podmods, Maintenance, Tips and Tricks
Forum Discription: Ask maintenance questions, share your podmods (modifications) and helpful tips
URL: http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=6566
Printed Date: 02 May 2024 at 3:45pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 9.64 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: ZAMP wiring
Posted By: johnmaci
Subject: ZAMP wiring
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2015 at 7:39am
For those newer PODS that come ZAMP ready, does anyone know how they are wired?
I just purchased the ZAMP Roof and Sidewall Port and would like to install it; Does it connect directly to the battery or to the wiring?

Thanks,
JD



Replies:
Posted By: Pooterpod
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2015 at 8:46am
There are two loose terminal leads ( red and white) that exit the wiring bundle at the front of the Pod so I guess the answer would be connect directly to the battery. 


Posted By: johnmaci
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2015 at 9:33am
Thank you.
I was hoping they would have connected somewhere in the wiring panel or wiring bundle as a more "proper" installation.


Posted By: Pooterpod
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2015 at 6:07pm
Originally posted by johnmaci

Thank you.
I was hoping they would have connected somewhere in the wiring panel or wiring bundle as a more "proper" installation.
I prefer right to the battery myself.( KISS) I have not followed the wires back from the battery, so  it is possible they run into and out of the fuse panel, but I was under the impression from another thread that it was a direct connection. 


Posted By: techntrek
Date Posted: 04 Jul 2015 at 10:51pm
From what I have heard there is no fuse, so I recommend adding a fuse at the battery connection.

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Doug ~ '10 171 (2009-2015) ~ 2008 Salem ~ http://www.rpod-owners.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=1723 - Pod instruction manual


Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2015 at 8:42am
Directly to the battery is the correct way to hook them up. Line loss is an actual issue, and the most direct connection is the most efficient. I mounted my connector right to one of the battery box lids.


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Posted By: Pooterpod
Date Posted: 05 Jul 2015 at 12:57pm
Originally posted by furpod

Directly to the battery is the correct way to hook them up. Line loss is an actual issue, and the most direct connection is the most efficient.
That must be why Forest River ran the wire from the battery to the farthest spot on the trailer on the factory install...LOL


Posted By: Marx
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2015 at 8:22am
Originally posted by furpod

Directly to the battery is the correct way to hook them up. Line loss is an actual issue, and the most direct connection is the most efficient. I mounted my connector right to one of the battery box lids.


Great point and idea here for safety!


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2014 R-POD 177


Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2015 at 9:28am
Originally posted by Pooterpod

Originally posted by furpod

Directly to the battery is the correct way to hook them up. Line loss is an actual issue, and the most direct connection is the most efficient.
That must be why Forest River ran the wire from the battery to the farthest spot on the trailer on the factory install...LOL


Why Forest River does some of the stuff they do can only be answered by Miss Cleo...


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Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 06 Jul 2015 at 11:59pm
Iv'e traced them, it's two #10 wires (red and white) directly to the battery. The distance is not a problem as far as voltage using 10 gauge wire. It's possible that plugging and sparking up front with batteries gassing and propane and all may be part of the logic to place the plug all the way in the rear? Dunno...

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Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)


Posted By: mikeyg2347
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2015 at 2:51pm
Speaking of line loss, how much cable do you think is feasible before the charger becomes seriously inefficient? My Renogy came with 15' of cable which isn't nearly enough to take full advantage of the sun if you're under trees at all.

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Mike


Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2015 at 6:01pm
There are a few variables, but stranded copper 10g wire will lose about .25 volts every 15 feet. Your controller may have an adjustable output, or automatic.

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Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 07 Jul 2015 at 9:34pm
This solar wire size calculator may help and has more info about some of the variables...

10g is a pretty good size tube, presumably done by FR and Zamp to mute any critics about the wire being 
to small. I think FR and Zamp nailed it. There is no money to be saved where wire is used for power transmission. Smile

http://www.freesunpower.com/wire_calc.php#startRed - Wire sizing calculator for Solar Panel Arrays




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Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)


Posted By: mikeyg2347
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 10:22am
That calculator is really cool. Makes it easy for the rookie/amateur (me) to get a fast answer. Looks like if I use 10 gauge cable I can go about 35' from the Zamp port and keep the line loss to less than 3%. Solar chargers can be a challenge when you want the trailer in the shade, but the solar panel needs to be in the sun. Thanks for the link.

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Mike


Posted By: Leo B
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 12:31pm
Ditto on the calculator!!

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Leo & Melissa Bachand
2017 Ford F150
2021 Vista Cruiser 19 csk
Previously owned
2015 Rpod 179
2010 Rpod 171


Posted By: Podster
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 7:30pm
LOL, Good Deal...don't forget to add the original 20' or so if you are using the Zamp Plug! 

Another acceptable practice if you don't know the amperage output of a panel, you can figure 1 amp for ever 15 watts of panel size. So a 50w panel is rated at about 3 amps out and a 100w panel at 6. 

Since amperage increases power flow, distance will be shorter and/or wire size will be larger. 



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Cliff & Raelynn
Ranger 4.0/178
(1/2 ton 5,800lb tow capacity)


Posted By: mikeyg2347
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 9:08pm
Yep, I factored in the wire from the connector to the battery for a total distance of 20'. Should be OK with 10 gauge wire all the way from the charger to the battery.

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Mike


Posted By: mikeyg2347
Date Posted: 08 Jul 2015 at 9:09pm
oooops, I mean total distance of 50'. 20' plus 30', uh, somebody help me here...I ran out of fingers and toes.

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Mike


Posted By: shanebevel
Date Posted: 15 Jul 2015 at 11:02pm
As a weird side note, the first thing I thought when I saw the port was power access! The plug used (while not the awesome Anderson Power Pole) is a standard connector, so a man could build a pigtail to whatever he wanted and access 12v from the back of the camper through a sizable cable. Ham radio/chargers/12v led lantern all kinds of stuff. 

My only thought was that I didn't know if it ran through a converter of some type, but it looks like a direct connection, so that's pretty cool!

So in theory, any solar panel producing 12v+ could be used here right? Not just a zamp branded kit. 

Shane


Posted By: furpod
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2015 at 12:19pm
Originally posted by shanebevel

As a weird side note, the first thing I thought when I saw the port was power access! The plug used (while not the awesome Anderson Power Pole) is a standard connector, so a man could build a pigtail to whatever he wanted and access 12v from the back of the camper through a sizable cable. Ham radio/chargers/12v led lantern all kinds of stuff. 

My only thought was that I didn't know if it ran through a converter of some type, but it looks like a direct connection, so that's pretty cool!

So in theory, any solar panel producing 12v+ could be used here right? Not just a zamp branded kit. 

Shane


Yes you can add a SAE connector to any panel/controller combo and feed at that port.. and yes.. 12v goes both ways.. so you could add a properly wired SAE connector to anything 12v you wanted to power outside. Wink


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Posted By: shanebevel
Date Posted: 16 Jul 2015 at 12:23pm
Yup, or a SAE to PowerPole pigtail and then I can power everything I already have with PowerPoles. Why more people don't use that connector, I don't know. They are just awesome. 



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